'91 Civic Hatch | (1)15" on 500 watts 31Hz | Low Power Bigger Output

[RooTxBeeR]

Just blew my subs, took them, switched there positions and then put both inverted. Wired them to go to 4 ohms bridged. Had horrible unloading, then went to switch them, and one didn't work anymore. Just wouldn't play when was connected, then I tried to connect the other by itself and it mad ea little noise then stopped. Yahhhhhhh, FML right, shits just hitting the fan left and right.

[BassMunky]

got video and what it does on the tl?

[Kevin M]

Just blew my subs, took them, switched there positions and then put both inverted. Wired them to go to 4 ohms bridged. Had horrible unloading, then went to switch them, and one didn't work anymore. Just wouldn't play when was connected, then I tried to connect the other by itself and it mad ea little noise then stopped. Yahhhhhhh, FML right, shits just hitting the fan left and right.

That is rough brohammer.

[RooTxBeeR]

got video and what it does on the tl?

Got some videos in the previous pages, and never got on the TL, don't think it did THAT much.

And kevin, it does think I am just going to wire up speaker wires to the front and run the 4 channels like it's supposed to, then start working on everything

[Kevin M]

got video and what it does on the tl?

Got some videos in the previous pages, and never got on the TL, don't think it did THAT much.

And kevin, it does think I am just going to wire up speaker wires to the front and run the 4 channels like it's supposed to, then start working on everything

If you run it in 3 channel mode or bridged they need to be at 4 ohms. It's always good to have a nice frontstage first. So you will be looking to get that skar 15" later other than sooner? Saw it was in your sig

[RooTxBeeR]

Ya I rewired them. Took the back + and - and connected them on each. Then took the other + and - run towards the amp, then before they touch the amp I put each speakers wires toegether. so 4 ohms, just think the unloading killed them, they did it pretty hard. And yes I will be checking that IVX-15 out, have good plans for that thing.

[RooTxBeeR]

Turns out, that one of my subs tinsel leads somehow got disconnected from the terminal. These JBL subs I have, have copper mounts with the tinsel lead fed through a plastic support mount. Well every time I solder anything, or remove something, the copper mounts loosen up from the plastic because it gets so hot. The other can play, just needs to be touching a few certain spots on the speaker mount, so I suspect the other sub to have one of it's terminals barely touching the speaker terminal. Going to think up a way for my to easily make direct leads and go from there, and continue with my testing from yesterday.

[Kevin M]

5 minute fix job bro. That was good luck.

[RooTxBeeR]

Lol, actually going to take quite a while, Because the terminals always do that, I am going to remove them all and just solder some wire directly to the leads and work from that. But yes, good luck

[RooTxBeeR]

Here are the pics! Redid all my tinsel leads to be direct leads. And put both subs inverted, which as I thought made my lower end better. A lot better surprisingly. There is another thing though now. Since the subs are how they are, from the above pictures, one subs cone actually rests lower than the other one. I don't want what made them like this, as they weren't like this before hand. Because of this it creates unloading on anything 29hz and below pretty easily and badly. Also now on some low notes, it sounds like there is a weird whistle or like chain is vibrating.

Who needs to buy direct leads when you can do it yourself?!