2011 Chevy Tahoe, 10k watts, 4 Fi BTL 15s, 4 DC Power alts!

[RickyFriery97]

damn dude! doin work

givin me motivation to work on my trucks

[Daniel Brill-Edwards]

Ignore this post

[dkahns51]

SonicElectronix.com is now on my shit list... used to be they shipped everything out of their California warehouse, and I got it in one day with ground shipping. Then recently they started shipping stuff out of Kentucky also, which takes a week to get here, and there's no way to know which warehouse will be used unless you call them.

So I call them for one item and am told it will ship out of California. Now these clowns decide to use some cut-rate crap shipper for their ground shipping that goes halfway then hands it off to the Postal Service? Three days now and nothing for a 500-mile trip. Idiots. Object lesson in how to run your business into the ground.

Yeah same happen to me.. now when i order everything i just hope it comes from cali.. i dont order from Audiosavings because it takes 2 weeks to get to WA..

[Daniel Brill-Edwards]

I'm with you on the cutting wire - I love everything except that!!

I've done fiberglass doors before so I know my way around, fortunately, else I'd be biting off more than I could chew on this build. I had planned on three 6.5"s based on how much of the door I wanted to cut up, I'm not sure two 8"s will fit based on that, but I will remeasure.. Do you think 8"s work in a two-way configuration, can they respond well enough in the mid-range freqs?

The reason why i'm suggesting 8s is mainly their efficiency and they give quite a good thump to the midbass. I have had a lot of listening time to project big black (see

and my other vids).

It has 3 ground zero 8s and 2 super tweeters in each door that are a perfect match for the 8 12s in the wall. The super tweets are a bit too piercing especially for daily driving. I presume that you will not be putting anything in the rear doors? You can get a passive crossover for the 8s and some tweeters but if you cant then you would only need a 50W x 4 amp to power the tweeters separately (2nd hand that shouldn't be much at all).

Just realised the forum changes the link to youtube - skip to about 2:55 in

[MrSkippyJ]

this is looking really nice man!

[reharrac]

So I managed to find a post where somebody had emailed JL Audio about grounds and they said that even on a full-frame vehicle like a Suburban the resistance of the frame is only as good as what you'd find with 4-gauge wire. So I'll stick to running dedicated ground wire to the front.

I think that's a load of bologna man. Most of the guys you see around here are grounding to the frame myself included. I used to ground to the front, but after finding the real cause of my amps blowing the hell up I moved the ground back to the rear and it's disco.

i know im a little late. but notice how far down steel is on the conductive chart. http://www.tibtech.com/conductivity.php

[Daniel Brill-Edwards]

Alright I've spent the last few hours reading up on threads where people discuss 2-way systems with 8" woofers... bottom line is they are difficult to do because 8" woofers have low roll-off points and start beaming low as well. The only solution is to go with specialized tweeters/wideband drivers for the high highs, like those Seleniums. I think I'm going to stick with my original plan of three 6.5"s per door, less opportunity for me to shoot myself in the foot that way I think.

(There was a famous car audio competitor who won SQ competitions with a 2-way setup involving an 8" woofer but he had to construct an elaborate device that went in FRONT of the woofer to deal with the beaming.)

Hmm I see what you mean. One thing you might want a quick look into is dual cone 8s. By this I don't mean an 8 with a tweeter mounted coaxialy but a second mini cone around the dustcap. Back when I knew nothing about audio and found my dads old mission 700s which needed new 8" drivers I just went to ebay and got the cheapest ones. To this day I am suprised at how good they sound - 8" dual cone acting as a full range driver with the original tweets in a 60hz tuned enclosure with only 50W per side. They can rattle the light fittings downstairs!! I have had hundreds and hundreds of hours listening to them playing everything and yes it is partly the enclosure I think it is mainly the efficiency of the drivers.

If you go down the 6.5 route the mini checklist i'd have while looking around is a good butyl rubber rolled surround and extremely stiff cone (ideally kevlar or some sort of composite). If you are going passive are you looking for coaxials or have you got space to hide 6 crossover boxes?

Just to make it more difficult how about having one 8" and two 6.5"s in each door with say the tweeter for the 8" in the A-pillar. I have heard a system with 4 6.5"s mounted coaxially in the doors and although it was a Lupo and you were right next to them, it was a bit muddy and could've done with a couple facing you.

[Daniel Brill-Edwards]

I'd definitely reccomend doubling up the sides. I've seen box flex in some big systems and its scary - you want something very solid and heavy. I've seen a single layer box with 4 15" REs off a few kW and the whole thing was jumping up and down on the low note of "on my level"

As for the bracing, for a box this big avoid threaded rod and go for the 2x4 approach holding the box out rather than pulling it in. Looking back at the sketchups you did, I don't think the supports at either end flat against the box would be necessary especially if you are putting in those sized 45s.

Edit - Maybe think about triple baffle?

[kryptonite]

Doubled sides will still flex, they do in my buddys tahoe, check out blakes suburban build where singer used angle iron to strengthen vast expanses of paneling. If u counter sink the bolt heads from the outside and resin them in smooth than u can cover them easier with carpeting. Def double up though on the sides

[Sir-Lancelot]

Damn, what a nice build this is.

It's looking really great bro.