2011 Chevy Tahoe, 10k watts, 4 Fi BTL 15s, 4 DC Power alts!

[RickyFriery97]

So I still have a bunch of questions after getting the alts. I emailed Kyle and am awaiting a response, maybe you guys know the answers:

1. The relay has a long fused red wire and a white wire coming from it. I assume the red wire goes to a free ignition switched slot in the fuse box, and the white wire to ground?

2. Each of the three connectors has a red wire and a blue wire. Where do I attach these?

3. Any tips on routing the new belt? I assume it's important to get as much "coverage" around each pulley as possible? Is there a rule of thumb for how much of each pulley I should cover in order to avoid slippage (40%, 60%, etc.)?

4. If I wanted to run a ground wire to an alt, where do I attach it?

i would assume thats what the red fused wire and the white wire are for, id wait and get a 100 % for sure answer from kyle though

as for ground wires, sine the alts dont have direct ground studs on them, best place would be somewhere along the alt bracket, cleand and sanded down to bare metal of course

thats all i can help with out of those

[kryptonite]

Belt routing from left to right: under the top left most idlers pulley, over the top alternator, under the right top most idlers pulley, around right most alternator, over bottom right idler pulley, under bottom alternator, up and over to the left of left bottom idler pulley, wrap through stock pulley system as usual, done.

[RickyFriery97]

I can't wait to see how you do the doors, shit I can't wait to see everything, so much more interesting since we have the same truck

[AMI CUSTOMS]

Run a ground to each alt mounting bolt, just one off each alt on the back side of the alt(s). THAT IS THE BEST SPOT!!!!

How long is the belt you have to run these? I can tell you if it will slip or not, basically anything over 118 inch is gonna slip unless you have two tensioners.

[kryptonite]

That top alt should be ok, if u have issues you should be able to lower the first idler pulley down the bracket a bit by re drilling a hole lower, your belt would need to be longer

[AA98hoe]

Was nice meeting you yesterday, im tuned in to your build. like i stated yesterday and im sure you already know. box design is the most important part of your build imo. If you need suggestions ill help you out. It also depends on how loud you want it. If you want low 5os or mid 50s

[Craig28]

alright you got all the deadening done time to get started on the box.

Gonna be a while yet, heh. Big question now is what order I do what remains to be done. I'm thinking this:

1. Get Alpine head-unit installed plus the 5 billion things that attach to it (Sirius, rear camera, etc.)

2. Build battery rack, install batteries front-and-back, install alts, run 0-gauge, burn down the truck.

3. Build amp rack, install amps, hook them up. Burn down the truck.

4. Simultaneously install components and build sub box. Switch between the two to keep my mind fresh. Kill myself with fiberglass fumes.

Easy 3 months remaining on this build.

If i were you my order would be 1234 hahahaha minus burning down the truck and dying

[thehoe92]

after reading through this build I saw one thing that I could help with lol!

the wind noise from the window can be taken care of.. I have no personal experience with it but after reading on the TahoeYukonForum there were a couple members that discussed using a double wide weatherstrip and it worked wonders at getting rid of wind noise

night and day difference

I could never find one when I had my Tahoe but it was always on my list to-do

hope that helps

keep up the good work!!

[ChevyBoy95]

[94retta(219)]

Keep this up! Im loveing it