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How do you know when your box is too big?


BJD3

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You pick it up and after you're done with it on your 18s, ill use it on my 12s. Then we can send to DC to test the 15s so we can get some fucking specs on their site. :werd_msword::drinks:

Sounds like a plan to me lol 8)

Bassless once again. Can't seem to keep a system for more than a few weeks :)

Saving for a '06 Nissan 350z, look for build around June 2012.

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I had great results running a couple of original Assassin 10's in 4ft^3 tuned to 28hz, and it still had good response up to 60hz or so, which is as high as I need my subs to play. Output below 40hz was quite nice as you can imagine.

This was when I was running a little under rms wattage to them(250 each).

Ryan Miskin - owner of RAM Designs


I have my PM's turned off, please email at <script data-cfhash='f9e31' type="text/javascript"> /* */</script>


2200+ designs since March 2011...

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I hear you on that one man, they've been very kind to share some enclosure knowledge the past few days...

I need to get T/S params for my Lv5s :(

i have T/Ss for a broken in 18"Lv5

TEAM BUILT FOR DECIBELS

s10 blazer

subs:2 Addictive Audio

amp:Addictive Audio 500.1

batts:Vital Power vp1500(front), vp2000(rear)

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I hear you on that one man, they've been very kind to share some enclosure knowledge the past few days...

I need to get T/S params for my Lv5s :(

i have T/Ss for a broken in 18"Lv5

PM ME Please :)

Bassless once again. Can't seem to keep a system for more than a few weeks :)

Saving for a '06 Nissan 350z, look for build around June 2012.

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You know your box is too big when Ray says so lol

On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said:
On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said:

It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15

LMFAO so true

:blush:

Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build)

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids

Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies

Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s

Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium

 

2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms

Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s

Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power

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Gotta love smd for the info you can get on here, some real knowledgeable people :good:

Im gonna watch this for sure.

i shook this one kids hand and it just folded in mine. long story short i fucked his girlfriendso.. yeah..

You want this to happen to you? Give decent handshakes people.

I was gifted with an innate ability to distribute wholesale ass beatings in a timely and orderly fashion.
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I would like to learn more about what the t/s specs really mean.. the components to understand the measuring as a whole if anyone could help? Im getting my fi q's dialed in very well but for other subs would still like to have a better understanding

Johns.jpgSuburban Coming Soon

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I would like to learn more about what the t/s specs really mean.. the components to understand the measuring as a whole if anyone could help? Im getting my fi q's dialed in very well but for other subs would still like to have a better understanding

The 3 most important*:

Fs* - free air resonance of the speaker. The lower the Fs (Hz) the more it likes to play deeper.

Vas* - the smaller the Vas (measured in cu ft or L), the stiffer the driver.

Qts* - pretty much the damping control of speaker. The lower (.2 to 1), sound quality. High Qts, usually good for SPL.

Z - total impedance.

Revc - DC resistence measured in ohms.

Xmax - peak linear travel.

Pe - max continuous power handling (rms).

EBP - closer to 90 - vented, closer to 50 - sealed.

F3 - basically what it should be tuned to.

Qtc - lower Qtc - larger boxes, higher - smaller boxes

Those are just some of the parameters.

RECOCKULUS1

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I would like to learn more about what the t/s specs really mean.. the components to understand the measuring as a whole if anyone could help? Im getting my fi q's dialed in very well but for other subs would still like to have a better understanding

The 3 most important*:

Fs* - free air resonance of the speaker. The lower the Fs (Hz) the more it likes to play deeper.

Vas* - the smaller the Vas (measured in cu ft or L), the stiffer the driver.

Qts* - pretty much the damping control of speaker. The lower (.2 to 1), sound quality. High Qts, usually good for SPL.

Z - total impedance.

Revc - DC resistence measured in ohms.

Xmax - peak linear travel.

Pe - max continuous power handling (rms).

EBP - closer to 90 - vented, closer to 50 - sealed.

F3 - basically what it should be tuned to.

Qtc - lower Qtc - larger boxes, higher - smaller boxes

Those are just some of the parameters.

Isn't that the point at which the box/driver system is 3db down?

Xmax is one way, correct? EDIT: Google is my friend. Yes, it is.

You may be offended by the above. Don't take it personally, I'm just abrasive.

DC Level 4 M2 12 D2

Car Audio Bargain 1600.1

Eclipse CD3200

~2 cubes @ 34 hz.

Stinger Roadkill Expert

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The F3 of the box isn't what it should be tuned to. It is the point where the subwoofer reaches -3dB... I think.

Bassless once again. Can't seem to keep a system for more than a few weeks :)

Saving for a '06 Nissan 350z, look for build around June 2012.

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