What Could Be The Problem

[D-train-13k]

It also could be that the battery is bad, the voltage could be correct, but the amperage could be down which means your starter isn't getting the right burst of current. If you can get someone to come by and try to jump start it, and it starts, it's most likely that the cold cranking amps are down too low.

thats true as well.. could be a bad cell. or two. which wont show up on DMM. youd have to do a load test on the battery

[HatersGonnaHate]

It also could be that the battery is bad, the voltage could be correct, but the amperage could be down which means your starter isn't getting the right burst of current. If you can get someone to come by and try to jump start it, and it starts, it's most likely that the cold cranking amps are down too low.

thats true as well.. could be a bad cell. or two. which wont show up on DMM. youd have to do a load test on the battery

Exactly! I found that out after dropping $250 on a new starter lol. I did every other test I could think of, then decided to get a new battery and it fixed the problem. Took the old battery into class and load tested it and found a bad cell. Shit happens.

[Bakerman]

My man put a DMM to his battery instead of trying to jump it. That's how you know you got a true audio/electrical buff there

[D-train-13k]

It also could be that the battery is bad, the voltage could be correct, but the amperage could be down which means your starter isn't getting the right burst of current. If you can get someone to come by and try to jump start it, and it starts, it's most likely that the cold cranking amps are down too low.

thats true as well.. could be a bad cell. or two. which wont show up on DMM. youd have to do a load test on the battery

Exactly! I found that out after dropping $250 on a new starter lol. I did every other test I could think of, then decided to get a new battery and it fixed the problem. Took the old battery into class and load tested it and found a bad cell. Shit happens.

but it still doesnt explain the click. even with a dead cell it will be able to power interior lights and such. selenoid would cut all that out

[HatersGonnaHate]

It also could be that the battery is bad, the voltage could be correct, but the amperage could be down which means your starter isn't getting the right burst of current. If you can get someone to come by and try to jump start it, and it starts, it's most likely that the cold cranking amps are down too low.

thats true as well.. could be a bad cell. or two. which wont show up on DMM. youd have to do a load test on the battery

Exactly! I found that out after dropping $250 on a new starter lol. I did every other test I could think of, then decided to get a new battery and it fixed the problem. Took the old battery into class and load tested it and found a bad cell. Shit happens.

but it still doesnt explain the click. even with a dead cell it will be able to power interior lights and such. selenoid would cut all that out

It was a hit or miss with the interior lights. Sometimes it would click, sometimes it wouldn't, sometimes it would start right up . 2002 Chevy Trailblazer with the inline 6.

[D-train-13k]

It also could be that the battery is bad, the voltage could be correct, but the amperage could be down which means your starter isn't getting the right burst of current. If you can get someone to come by and try to jump start it, and it starts, it's most likely that the cold cranking amps are down too low.

thats true as well.. could be a bad cell. or two. which wont show up on DMM. youd have to do a load test on the battery

Exactly! I found that out after dropping $250 on a new starter lol. I did every other test I could think of, then decided to get a new battery and it fixed the problem. Took the old battery into class and load tested it and found a bad cell. Shit happens.

but it still doesnt explain the click. even with a dead cell it will be able to power interior lights and such. selenoid would cut all that out

It was a hit or miss with the interior lights. Sometimes it would click, sometimes it wouldn't, sometimes it would start right up . 2002 Chevy Trailblazer with the inline 6.

it could have been a combination of the two. did you take your starter back ? or just keep it.

[kickass audio]

Heres what i had happen the one time i got bass happy and blasted my system on the crappy walmart battery i had in my old car.

I was cranking my music in the parking lot up quite a bit for 20 minutes before class and then i had left the car and went to class. When i came out to class i was able to unlock the doors remotely with my remote starter remote that i have but when i tried to start the engine all you could hear was a fast clicking noise whenever i had the key turned to start. I also noticed that my gauges in my dash would jump up and down with the clicks i heard from the starter not getting enough power to start. I also saw that my lights inside the car would dip down quite a bit and have a yellowish tint to them because the voltage was dropping down so far. After i figured it was the battery not having enough power in it i had a girl in my colleges parking lot jump my car for a minute and i was able to start the car just fine. My solenoid was trying to get engaged but since the amperage was down so far it wasnt enough to turn the starter around. I was able to turn on my radio, lights, and lock/unlock all the doors in the vehicle with no problem since they dont draw a ton of current to make them work.

It could easily be a battery issue where you have a dead cell or two. I have this issue with my dads Tahoe. He has a 6 year old battery under his hood and the battery and the resting voltage is only at 11.7v so it is deff on its way out but he has a bad cell. The reason i can tell he has a bad cell even though his truck starts up is that there is a good amount of voltage drop with basic electronics being turned on in the truck. I tested the alt on his truck both at autozone and with my own clamp and meter and i have full power on the alt and it does charge at 14.3v and puts out its correct amperage. The issue is that whenever you have the turn signals on the voltage meter in the dash will bob up and down with the lights turning on and off and the voltage drops even more when the fan for the interior of the truck gets turned on.

Point is, if your battery is dying it would let some things work but the starter is the only electronic part of your vehicles stock electrical that will draw the most current.

[HatersGonnaHate]

It also could be that the battery is bad, the voltage could be correct, but the amperage could be down which means your starter isn't getting the right burst of current. If you can get someone to come by and try to jump start it, and it starts, it's most likely that the cold cranking amps are down too low.

thats true as well.. could be a bad cell. or two. which wont show up on DMM. youd have to do a load test on the battery

Exactly! I found that out after dropping $250 on a new starter lol. I did every other test I could think of, then decided to get a new battery and it fixed the problem. Took the old battery into class and load tested it and found a bad cell. Shit happens.

but it still doesnt explain the click. even with a dead cell it will be able to power interior lights and such. selenoid would cut all that out

It was a hit or miss with the interior lights. Sometimes it would click, sometimes it wouldn't, sometimes it would start right up . 2002 Chevy Trailblazer with the inline 6.

it could have been a combination of the two. did you take your starter back ? or just keep it.

I just kept it. Might as well keep it in there so it doesn't need to be changed anytime soon.

[D-train-13k]

Heres what i had happen the one time i got bass happy and blasted my system on the crappy walmart battery i had in my old car.

I was cranking my music in the parking lot up quite a bit for 20 minutes before class and then i had left the car and went to class. When i came out to class i was able to unlock the doors remotely with my remote starter remote that i have but when i tried to start the engine all you could hear was a fast clicking noise whenever i had the key turned to start. I also noticed that my gauges in my dash would jump up and down with the clicks i heard from the starter not getting enough power to start. I also saw that my lights inside the car would dip down quite a bit and have a yellowish tint to them because the voltage was dropping down so far. After i figured it was the battery not having enough power in it i had a girl in my colleges parking lot jump my car for a minute and i was able to start the car just fine. My solenoid was trying to get engaged but since the amperage was down so far it wasnt enough to turn the starter around. I was able to turn on my radio, lights, and lock/unlock all the doors in the vehicle with no problem since they dont draw a ton of current to make them work.

It could easily be a battery issue where you have a dead cell or two. I have this issue with my dads Tahoe. He has a 6 year old battery under his hood and the battery and the resting voltage is only at 11.7v so it is deff on its way out but he has a bad cell. The reason i can tell he has a bad cell even though his truck starts up is that there is a good amount of voltage drop with basic electronics being turned on in the truck. I tested the alt on his truck both at autozone and with my own clamp and meter and i have full power on the alt and it does charge at 14.3v and puts out its correct amperage. The issue is that whenever you have the turn signals on the voltage meter in the dash will bob up and down with the lights turning on and off and the voltage drops even more when the fan for the interior of the truck gets turned on.

Point is, if your battery is dying it would let some things work but the starter is the only electronic part of your vehicles stock electrical that will draw the most current.

thats true. a starter draws like 120Amps. having dead cell in your battery is bad for you soundsystem as well as any other batterys that are in your vehicle.

[C.Sanchez.A]

Funny thing is my uncle suggested boosting the car. Also, having a dead cell wouldn't surprise me considering it's the original battery from 2002. I think what I will do is charge up my spare battery, and then install it and see if every thing works better.