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I went to start my car today and all that I got was a single click and then there was nothing, not even power. At first I thought my battery was dead. I hooked up my multimeter and every thing was good. I even have power when the key is turned to auxiliary. Every thing was working fin yesterday. What could the problem be?

The vehicle is a 2002 Mazda Protege Lx 2.0L

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1994 - Mazda B3000 (Daily/Toy/Show)

2002 - Mazda Protege (Daily)

1995 - Hyundai Accent (R.I.P.)

1984 - Bronco II (Restoration Project)

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could be your starter. i had the same exact problem when mine went out.

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could be your starter. i had the same exact problem when mine went out.

That's what I was thinking :(. I just spent $320 on the lower control arm... Any way of testing it?

Click Links To View Build Logs

1994 - Mazda B3000 (Daily/Toy/Show)

2002 - Mazda Protege (Daily)

1995 - Hyundai Accent (R.I.P.)

1984 - Bronco II (Restoration Project)

Youtube Channel

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Take a wrench and tap your starter kind of hard a few times... If it starts after you do that, it's a bad starter.

Also Sounds like it could be a bad ignition module.

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could be a bad starter solenoid as well. if you tap the starter with a hammer or wrench and that doesnt fix it then put a screwdriver between the battery positive on the solenoid and the trigger terminal and see if the car starts

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What you could do to see if your solenoid is engaging or not would be to remove your starter from your engine and then connect the solenoid of your starter to the positive of your battery, and then to ground the starter just connect the case of the starter to your batteries negative. It should make the gear come up and then release back when you no longer apply power to the solenoid.

It more than likely is just a bad starter, they typically go without any warning. If its just a stuck solenoid tapping on the starter with a wrench, 2x4, anything somewhat long to get into where your starter is but though enough to put some force on the starter can sometimes get it to engage. If your starter solenoid is engaging but the gear wont spin, you usually cant fix that other than to buy a new starter.

If you want to play it safe take the starter off and tape off the positive wires in the time it is off to prevent a short out. You can take the current one to autozone, advance auto, etc for testing. They can test them in the store for free if you want them to verify if it is dead or not.

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Ok so I randomly went to try and start my car and... it did! WTF is up with that? It smelt a little like gas once it did start, I'm guessing it got flooded? How..? I do not know but all well it runs good now and starts ok. Tomorrow I'm going to replace the fuel filter and do an oil change. Hopefully that makes thing a little better.

Edited by C.Sanchez.A

Click Links To View Build Logs

1994 - Mazda B3000 (Daily/Toy/Show)

2002 - Mazda Protege (Daily)

1995 - Hyundai Accent (R.I.P.)

1984 - Bronco II (Restoration Project)

Youtube Channel

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How long did you try to start it for before you quit and walked away? Did you give it any time to rest between starting the car and not getting it to actually kick over? When you couldnt start it, did you hear the clicking noise or the engine actually turning over just not getting a spark?

If you just flooded the engine you would smell the gas at a very strong smell and the car would eventually (like 5 minutes) start back up but seem to mis fire until it burns out all that excess fuel that was dumped into the engine. Also even if the engine flooded your engine would still turn and you could hear the starter working like normal but it wouldnt "catch" or get a kick from the fuel combusting in the engine.

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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How long did you try to start it for before you quit and walked away? Did you give it any time to rest between starting the car and not getting it to actually kick over? When you couldnt start it, did you hear the clicking noise or the engine actually turning over just not getting a spark?

If you just flooded the engine you would smell the gas at a very strong smell and the car would eventually (like 5 minutes) start back up but seem to mis fire until it burns out all that excess fuel that was dumped into the engine. Also even if the engine flooded your engine would still turn and you could hear the starter working like normal but it wouldnt "catch" or get a kick from the fuel combusting in the engine.

agreed. i would venture to say its the starter selenoid. most vehicles the selenoid will actually keep all the compents of the car from cutting on. and as well it can be a hit and miss with the contacts which explains why it started one time and didnt start the next. i would replace the 5 $ selenoid just for good measure.

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It also could be that the battery is bad, the voltage could be correct, but the amperage could be down which means your starter isn't getting the right burst of current. If you can get someone to come by and try to jump start it, and it starts, it's most likely that the cold cranking amps are down too low.

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looks like tony montana sneezed in your car.

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