teardrop Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 yea retail i aint started calling to see about better prices yet but thatas at retail amps and subs and cdt mids and highs from woofersetc.com and wiring and stuff from darvex.com and bats and alt from mechman all box stuff wood glue fiberglass from lowes and 80 sq. feet of Damplifier from secondskinaudio.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonedeaf Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 I think with 4 subs good powerd an electrical backed + Frontstage you can go with your 10 G, if you go 6 subs you start to spare on the wrong end. If its no reason to spend 3-5 G more than go with your idea of 6 subs. 12 k RMS are arround 1000 amps 2 350 amp alts are 1200 + bracket or 3 270 amps are 1500 + bracket. i know a guy running 2 saz4500s. he clamped around 8.7k rms at 18v. hes running 1 300 amp iraggi and 12 xspower 1600s.. he doesnt drop below 16v at full tilt. i have a feeling i should be safe with 2 270 amp alts that do 220 at idle. No, I don't think they put out 220 at idle... Mine put out 138 each at idle, which is damn good... 286 max... As I said, look at DB don. 4 15s and doing 160s daily. Theres people who have 4 times the cone area and cant touch that. But he cant play music, so I guess it doesnt matter. You need to learn to read... DB DON PLAYS MUSIC WITH HIS SYSTEM... Lol... It's been said already... I would do 4-15" havocs on 2k each in a 4th order. 2 alts 6 d3100's And as many "good" highs as i could buy. This is almost exactly what I would recommend... 4 15's will not take up all your room, give you enough port area, and still be loud as balls if you build the box right... Hit me up if you want any help... I read earlier where you said a guy is running 10 XS d1600s and only dropping to 16v. I don't think you realize that the 16v batteries charge at like 19.8 or something like that, so he has almost 4v of drop. his volatage rests at 17.5 and drops to no lower than 16... You CANNOT compare a 18v system vs a 12 volt system, just for an example it consumes about 800cca everysecond to produce 8000 rms at 12 v.... at 18v it produces almost 12000 rms, and has less dar and you go higher in voltage the efficency of the amp goes up...... And the two people u should be listening are the 2 guys doing 155+ ray and ray (dc98hoe)! If anything try to mimic their setups Personally I would wall 4 15s or 18s after you bought the 1000 dollars in wire from suneown, and then 8 3100s and triple alts Dc98hoe has I want to say 3,alts a 270 200 and 400, and he still has voltage drop! And he's at 14v system now charging 16v I have over 1500 grand in electrical and I only got a h/o alternator 270 and 7 g31 batts, this is not including the easy 100 feet of 0 guage I HAVE MASSIVE DROP ON AN SD 8K AT IDLE dual alts would hep me but I. Would still get tripple or double alts if they made it for my car Ok, when talking normal car electrical, most refer to it as 12V, even though it puts out around 14V... 16V batts is referred to as a 16V setup... These charge around 18.8-19.5 and are more of a pita to me than anything... OP, here is my suggestion... Run 4 15" subs with a D1.4 configuration so you can play daily at .7... Subs I would pick, DC see if you can get them in neos (not sure if DC has 15's in neos) If not, run the XL's with upgraded parts... Get yourself at least 3 alts to start off... Batteries - I'd use XS Power D3100's... Probably start out with 6 of them... Amps - Get yourself a DC 9K... Then buy yourself a bunch of mids/highs, wiring, sound deadener, and maybe even reinforce the cab roof/doors... I was the one who said he could play music. Op said he couldn't, that post I was just being sarcastic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tip n tell Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 Uhhhh. Amps dont create imp rise. This thread is retarded. Electrical alone for 12k rms... Alt set up 1600 Batts. 1400 Wire. 600 And 155+ db isnt something you can just buy. Please don't insult us that work for our 55+. Thanks amp rise / box rise. i don't care its the same to me. either way with any kind of rise your not getting the most out of your amps. and if its retarted then stay off my post. simple as that. i'm spending 10k on a system and i wanna hear some input. and 155+ db is something you can buy obviously? just takes some hard work and good planning.. Well just my 2cents, 10k, if you build right and get deals 155db is not a dream. I built a civic wall'd 4 18's DC XL 2 5k goliaths 3 deka G31 2 250amp alts clamped 2900watts each amp 155.8 music and burp a 157 at 51 hz so it can be done. Some times do your own thing. If i listened to all the forums I would've gotten know where cause I got the same...never going to happen. Keep dreaming, all that aside make your dream come true.. do it and have fun, It's what its all about...... No warranty 95 civic air-ride RE-5 slam specialties 4-18's Dc xlm2's tuned 35hz 2-1100.1's @ .35 each 2-SD 250.2 nano amps 3-deka 9a31 1-deka 35ah 2-250 amp alts/ Adjustable regulator 159 sealed @ dash 51hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berto Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 Nobody told him it wasn't gonna happen. We've been giving him suggestions that he hasn't been willing to accept. And all that was said to him was this was a dream thread until he made it happen. TEAM FLEX ISSUES Car: 1985 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royal 24" Rims HU: 7" Carputer, Planet Audio EQ, iPhone. Coax: T3 Audio 4" speakers Subs: 2x 18" T3 Audio TSNS (walled) Sub Amp: DC 9k SOON TO COME T3 Audio 6x9s MB Quarts 6.5" comp set MAYBE ADDED 2nd DC 9k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homiewes Posted August 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 Uhhhh. Amps dont create imp rise. This thread is retarded. Electrical alone for 12k rms... Alt set up 1600 Batts. 1400 Wire. 600 And 155+ db isnt something you can just buy. Please don't insult us that work for our 55+. Thanks amp rise / box rise. i don't care its the same to me. either way with any kind of rise your not getting the most out of your amps. and if its retarted then stay off my post. simple as that. i'm spending 10k on a system and i wanna hear some input. and 155+ db is something you can buy obviously? just takes some hard work and good planning.. Well just my 2cents, 10k, if you build right and get deals 155db is not a dream. I built a civic wall'd 4 18's DC XL 2 5k goliaths 3 deka G31 2 250amp alts clamped 2900watts each amp 155.8 music and burp a 157 at 51 hz so it can be done. Some times do your own thing. If i listened to all the forums I would've gotten know where cause I got the same...never going to happen. Keep dreaming, all that aside make your dream come true.. do it and have fun, It's what its all about...... My youtube channel, please subscribehttp://www.youtube.com/ballinblaza Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homiewes Posted August 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 yea retail i aint started calling to see about better prices yet but thatas at retail amps and subs and cdt mids and highs from woofersetc.com and wiring and stuff from darvex.com and bats and alt from mechman all box stuff wood glue fiberglass from lowes and 80 sq. feet of Damplifier from secondskinaudio.com well your kinda crazy if you go that route.. My youtube channel, please subscribehttp://www.youtube.com/ballinblaza Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homiewes Posted August 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 Nobody told him it wasn't gonna happen. We've been giving him suggestions that he hasn't been willing to accept. And all that was said to him was this was a dream thread until he made it happen. ive been willing to accept suggestions, just not from the people that like to flame my thread. My youtube channel, please subscribehttp://www.youtube.com/ballinblaza Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ18 Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 I would also suggest buying equipment in stages. I would start with electrical, Alts, Wire, and Batteries in that order. Next subs and amps and then start on the enclosure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homiewes Posted August 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 I would also suggest buying equipment in stages. I would start with electrical, Alts, Wire, and Batteries in that order. Next subs and amps and then start on the enclosure. i was thinking.. get the alt bracket made first, then to start off order 2 alts. i want to order all the subs at the same time, and get the box built. the amps i could hold off on, atleast get one or two to start with and later get more amps and more alts. My youtube channel, please subscribehttp://www.youtube.com/ballinblaza Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AA98hoe Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 So after all the suggestions what are you leaning towards sub and amp wise and type of enclosure TEAM DC AUDIO VEHICLE:98 chevy tahoe 2wd 3-4 drop HEADUNIT:alpine 9886 PREAMP:arcaudio FRONT STAGE:4-6 1/2s selinium,DD component set and 4-selinium tweeters in each door KICKPANELS:jl audio 5 1/4 REAR DOORS: dd components 6 1/2s HIGHS AMPS:zapco 750.2 on front doors,zapco an another 750.2 on kicks and rear doors SUBS:4-ascendant audio 18s with 5 spiders in a custom box built by KINGSUV SUB AMP: 2-dc7.5s ALTERNATORS: 3-mechmans 1- 425comp, 1-smd spec350, 1-270 with adj voltage harness on custom dc bracket WIRE:10-runs 0g front to back BATTERIES:6-d1400s TL results:157.1 at 38hz and 156.8 at headrest score @37hz. STATE AND NATIONAL RECORD IN MECA S5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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