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^^this. I have the same stupid design in my envoy. What i did was cut a hole through the rubber grommet that comes stock on the housing to set the grommet that the hid's come with, took the wire that was inside the headlight housing and wired it outside a little so i could plug it into my relay to energize and turn on the relay to operate both my hid's. Its not that hard to do but you do want to make sure that those connections if you choose to do the same thing i did are all sealed up. I bought some HVAC putty and put it around the connector that normally is inside the lights housing and connects to the back of the halogen bulb. You just need to disconnect that wire going to the stock halogen bulbs, route it so it either goes through the grommet to plug in externally to the housing, or run some wires and keep it housed inside the housing. Just make sure you seal it all up well or you will get moisture in your headlights.

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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Thats cool. Thanks for teaching me that trick. I meant it though more for if it rains hard or something for the water to not pool up in the light, not them fogging up or anything. Either way thats a really cool trick, i wish i knew that with my old car that had dusty lens' on them

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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the only problem your going to have with putting hids in the high beams too is when you hit your highs your going to have a bout a 5-7 second wait till they hit full brightness. what you might want to do is wire them up so the low beams stay on when you hit the highs so you have all 4 on at once. thats the safest way to do it

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Yes tank is 100% correct on this. I have 4300k FutureVision HID's in my truck and they are great but the highs do take like 2-3 seconds to get warm and show my way. Honestly i will probably never use the highs, i just use my low and fog lamps all the time. Plus if you do a retrofit, their projectors have a wire on them where it moves a little plate inside the projector to make them high beams. IDK how well it works since mine isnt hooked up since i dont need to do that but im sure it would work great. Thats mainly for those ppl who have cars with just one bulb that performs as their low and high beams.

2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress

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Yes tank is 100% correct on this. I have 4300k FutureVision HID's in my truck and they are great but the highs do take like 2-3 seconds to get warm and show my way. Honestly i will probably never use the highs, i just use my low and fog lamps all the time. Plus if you do a retrofit, their projectors have a wire on them where it moves a little plate inside the projector to make them high beams. IDK how well it works since mine isnt hooked up since i dont need to do that but im sure it would work great. Thats mainly for those ppl who have cars with just one bulb that performs as their low and high beams.

yeh thats what i have. ive got an h4 hid kit where the highs and lows are in one bulb. mine are 8000k though. i have mine wired up to a relay too where ive got a pair of driving lights in my grill that have another pair of h3 8000k hid lights in that turn on when i turn on my brights.

0811110020.jpg low beams 0811110020a.jpg high beams

looking at that pic youd think that the inner lights are 10000k but their actually the same color. the inner part of the housing has a blue tint to it so it makes them look like that.

Edited by theTank77
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