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alternator or batteries


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60-70amps should be perfect to charge a battery for your draw.

/sarcasm

I would honestly upgrade both alternator and battery. You don't need 300amps, but I would see what Mechman can do for you, and then save up later for a D2700. But then again, some of us love beefy electrical

I agree that you should ideally get both. Maybe get the Alt first and Big 3 then add batts as needed and as you can afford. The thing is you wany to BOTH sit and demo AND drive around FULL TILT. Over time (and probably not much) you will end up running your amps at low voltage, shortening the life of your batts and burning up your poor little alt.

CURRENT SYSTEM:

  • Alternator:
    1. Stock alt on mids/highs
    2. Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v
  • Batteries: (2) XS D1400s
  • Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks
  • Headunit: 80-PRS
  • Sub Amp: DC 5.0k
  • Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones
  • Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal.
  • Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4
  • Active Components:
    • Mids RE XXX 6.5c
    • Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar)
  • Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab.

Build Log

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Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db
Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
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If your alt is on it's way out anyway, get that first. All the batteries in the world won't do you any good without one. The batteries supply stored power whenever an alt can't keep up, which the alt then has to replace.

If your alt is still going strong and they is no need to replace it soon, then adding a second battery may be the better option for now. Just make sure you keep the batteries charged up!

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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I have a d3400 and 2 d3100 with big3 done and 2 runs of 0 gauge with stock alt on on my memphis 4k abd it hangs take about 1 full day of crusing to comeplety charge them but i can play at full tilt for about 3 to 5 hours. both are realy important but if u jyst buy a battery for now just let ur system rest while the car charges a bit and by the way dangerous voltage drop is wheb u start going under 12volts or 11.6volts dont lwt it get to there lol things will start to heat up

xspower.jpg

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Had an estimate of 6400 for an alpine/clarion setup dealer said it "should" hit around 160db with the custom boxes he was going to make for me..doubtful with so much area to move but, budget is way below that :( any ideas on cheaper brands for that kind of Spl setup? really didnt want to try any Boss or soundstorm, thinking Quantum figure around $150 per speaker "$1800 total" and $1700 to power it, first actual big setup for the van.

New MEMPHIS CAR AUDIO build

4 15s Memphis C3

2 xs power D3100

1 xs power d3400

custom fiberglass door pannel

and lots more

My Build

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xs power aren't the only battery makers out there lol. If cost is an issue look at some dekka batts or other decent AGM batts.

but replacing your stock batt and getting a big for the back would work. You're not going to be able to play full tilt for long periods of time though

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I would rather get the alt first. That way you can save up for some batts. Like armykyle1 said there are other battery companies out there that are cheaper.

2 polk audio 4x6'skenwood head-unit 220 amp Mechman alt1979 Corvette

2003 corvette z06

alpine radio and the bose system that came stock

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True, XS is not the only battery maker, but for the performance to cost...why save $80-$100 for something that can not compete? Just my $0.02

Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you?

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Almost everything suggested is overkill, lol. He could get one little extra battery and run it at full tilt. Hell, at idle on a stock 105 amp with stock battery and a hc800 I could full tilt 2 aq1200ds with max .4 or .5v drop from 13.9v. But since alt is old go alt.

Edited by ChevyBoy95

29408240963_9908a51930_o.png
Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's]

BL :  http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/

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Playing music? Nominal ohm load? You're forgetting a lot of science between 2 points which would show that just because it happened in your ride does not mean its guaranteed in his. You're not even charging at 14 anymore, and overkill? Possibly. But we have different perspectives. I spend just as much, if not more, on my electrical as I do subs and amps.

Even after 12,000 watts could never drop below 14.3, full tilt, for hours. But that's how I like my system.

Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you?

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His is obviously for music, most likely 1 ohm. What I stated was my alt was quite weaker but with a tiny kinetik I could maintain good voltage. I know for a fact you have more knowledge than me in this area, but getting the fattest batt on the market and a 270 amp alt is overkill IMO. But if he upgrades it will save him dough yada yada yada. He isn't running 12k either :shrug:

29408240963_9908a51930_o.png
Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's]

BL :  http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/

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