Lbox88 Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 (edited) DO NOT REPLACE THE CAP! Just get rid of it completely. A idle, you should be reading at least 13.5V, but normally you should be sitting between 13.8-14.8V EDIT: Take a meter and measure across your battery. Then measure from you alternator+ to the engine block. If you are measuring much higher at the alt+ than you are at the battery, make sure all your grounds and power wires are nice and clean and tight. I was measuring 14.5 off the alt to block and 13.3 on the battery due to problems with grounds at one point Edited October 6, 2011 by Lbox88 Quote UBL | Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quiet Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 DO NOT REPLACE THE CAP! Just get rid of it completely. A idle, you should be reading at least 13.5V, but normally you should be sitting between 13.8-14.8V EDIT: Take a meter and measure across your battery. Then measure from you alternator+ to the engine block. If you are measuring much higher at the alt+ than you are at the battery, make sure all your grounds and power wires are nice and clean and tight. I was measuring 14.5 off the alt to block and 13.3 on the battery due to problems with grounds at one point Please follow this ^^^ advice! Replace it with a second battery. Your alternator will thank you, if you haven't killed it already. Also, if you are dropping to 9v, increase your power cable a couple sizes thicker. Also make sure your ground is as thick as your power wire and grounded properly, to the frame or at minimum to a sanded down thick part of the chassis. Quote 2007 Pacifica Rebuild. Less quiet. Still not loud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dereko2 Posted October 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 DO NOT REPLACE THE CAP! Just get rid of it completely. A idle, you should be reading at least 13.5V, but normally you should be sitting between 13.8-14.8V EDIT: Take a meter and measure across your battery. Then measure from you alternator+ to the engine block. If you are measuring much higher at the alt+ than you are at the battery, make sure all your grounds and power wires are nice and clean and tight. I was measuring 14.5 off the alt to block and 13.3 on the battery due to problems with grounds at one point When im idling i'm reading 14.+, when im just playing a bass boosted song. I went to a car audio specialist he told me that it was the capacitor. To tell you, my brother just gave me the capacitor. The cap I guess 5 year old. Haha. I just seek some advice here before i buy a new cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdog Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 DONT buy another cap BUY another battery find somewhere to put it maybe replace the one up front too Quote REP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
extremeauto Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 caps are bad...they drawe power more time then they put out...sounds like you have some issues...i would check the alt output (should be 14volts or better runnin) and you bat should set @12.6 -13volts with the car off. do the big three and check all your connections and you should be doin a lil better...good luck man Quote 1995 Honda passport 3.2 4x4 Frankenstein on a budget ballistics sound deader (roof only so far) kenwood mp3 usb audio control 3 (upgrading) hifonics mx-3 3 sets of massive px5 5.25s 3 sets of massive tweets phonix gold 5.25 componets x2 massive nx4 nano 200x4 mids sony xplod 600x4 watt high's 2 Fi bl fully loaded box walled @31ish hz 13.2 cube box/wall massive DB8000 Excessive amaperge 250 amp alt wir extrnl regulator daul runs of xs power xpflex 0 gauge big 3 raptor 0 gauge power/ground wire full run suriken 45 amp hour x3 shriken bt-120 batts,interstate 1100CA semi batt scytek galaxy 2way alarm still upgradeing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbox88 Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 If you want to replace it, here is a MUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCH better option for only a little bit more: Audiosavings HC600B Sonicelectronix HC600B And here's a CHEAP volt meter Capacitors just drain, drain, drain. I got one to play with a while back and wish I had never wasted the money. Also do the big 3 upgrade. You can go to my build log in my sig and on the last page I have redone most of mine with new 1/0. Looking at your amp's specs, it puts our 1200Wrms at 1 ohm right? if your hurt for cash, you can at least go pick up some 2 or 4 AWG battery cable from you local auto parts store and that would help. should be about $1-2 a foot and then you can buy some ring terminals for it. And I'm sorry if I come off as a bit of an ass. Like many of the people here, I'm just trying to save you from making the same mistakes that many of us did lol. Quote UBL | Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new guy Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 Jesus 9 volts with Just 1 l7? I bet it's the cap. With my l7 even if I were trying I don't think I could get it that low and ihave completely stock electrical The sub isn't what is drawing current. yeah but with that sub it give him about a 1000 watt limit. Quote *current* 1991 honda crx si 2 skar audio 12s pioneer 6.5s dual 400 watt amp audio technix db 1/0 wiring kit. dual head unit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxim Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 Jesus 9 volts with Just 1 l7? I bet it's the cap. With my l7 even if I were trying I don't think I could get it that low and ihave completely stock electrical The sub isn't what is drawing current. yeah but with that sub it give him about a 1000 watt limit. Amplifier, ohm load, efficiency, and true RMS wattage output are all factors in power draw. The subwoofer itself is not. Quote wtf is lolcats? I'd def get a fat hooker if i had to resort to that kinda thing. I feel like they'd be grateful and work harder. Also its more bang for my buck, more real estate for my dollar if you catch my drift. its like the Costco of streetwalkers. I was hoping for 150 . I was hoping she would let me put it in her butt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbdblue Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 do yourself a favor and run the system without the cap to see what happens. take some more readings and see if it gets better. you don't want to go replacing things that don't need to be replaced. its just a matter of diagnosing the problem. if your seeing 14+ at idle with a boosted song playing, it sounds like your electrical is strong enough without any backup battery or capacitor. Quote AA-Atomic-Clif Designs-DC-Diamond-Digital Designs-Directed-Eclipse-Fi-Hertz-Hifonics-Kenwood-Memphis-Phoenix Gold-Pioneer-PPI-PSi-Stinger-Sundown-TC Sounds-Viper-Zapco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new guy Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 Jesus 9 volts with Just 1 l7? I bet it's the cap. With my l7 even if I were trying I don't think I could get it that low and ihave completely stock electrical The sub isn't what is drawing current. yeah but with that sub it give him about a 1000 watt limit. Amplifier, ohm load, efficiency, and true RMS wattage output are all factors in power draw. The subwoofer itself is not. yes i know all i was trying to say is that with just a single l7 hes not gonna be pulling 300 amps or anything close to that and it shouldnt be dropping down to 9 volts. Quote *current* 1991 honda crx si 2 skar audio 12s pioneer 6.5s dual 400 watt amp audio technix db 1/0 wiring kit. dual head unit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.