Quiet Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 I forgot one With those same two JL 10w1s I had 3 cars ago.. It was running off a 160 watt sony amp in stereo, 80 per side (if it was doing rated, doubt it). It wasn't loud enough so I rewired it to 2ohm bridged. Got real fucking loud for those subs in a mini van and was for about 4 hours. The amp just went poof into eternal-protect and wasn't even worth repairing. 2007 Pacifica Rebuild. Less quiet. Still not loud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michigancapri92 Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 installed t3 subwoofers :peepwall: im just kidding i loved my t3 subwoofers !!! but i think the worse mistake i ever made was when i FIRST got a sound system and didnt know what the hell i was doing ... hooked up on a two channel 300W amp 1 subwofer 1 tweeter and 2 6x9s on each channel ... all in parallel ... assuming they were all 4ohm im guessing 1ohm with gain ALL THE WAY UP !!! :-D and somehow that little amp worked solid for like a year :-D oh and all my radio had was front RCA jacks so everything was ran on FULL pass filter :-D here is is !! i think the box itself looks pretty good ... i miss that system ... untill it got jacked !! Teamcapri.comThe TeamCapri 1992 Mercury Capri XR22012 FORD EDGE SQ BUILDOld build logMy FeedBack1992 Mercury capri XR2 Hyper LED Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mario928 Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 well i will say having a prefab box with a L5 12" kicker with a 2 channel sony amp 1200max. That amp got real hot and never went into protection. Also having everything clipped . That system lasted for like 3 years. I dont have that system no more so is all good. I learned alot from this forum thanks you to all the people and to steve for the DD-1 . Build Under Construction Head Unit = Kenwood DDX514 Amps = Kicker 750.1, Going to install Sundown 1500D v3 and Sundown 125.4 Battery = XS D3400 Wires = Kicker RCA's, 0 Gauge street wire and Stinger Mids and Highs = Stock Sub= Kicker L7 12" Alternator = 220 Mechman Sound Deadner= Fatmat and Stinger Road Kill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickass audio Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 In my old '98 olds 88, me and my dad were making an attempt to improve the power and grounds on my cars system after we did the big-3 and the shop who installed the factory ground wire put it on the very thin sheet metal thats right above my gas tank. Well the hole they made stripped due to the metal warping so me and my dad decided to drill a new hole there and when we did it went through 2 layers of metal and then the drill got real soft and we both looked at eachother with the "oh shit" look. I continued to install my system and the power wire was working decently well with slight resistance in it (at the time i thought it was alright but now i know better) and when i went to start the car my fuel pump wouldnt turn on and before i did the mod my fuel was at 1/2 of a tank but now was magically showing as full. Turns out we drilled through the two pieces of metal above my gas tank and right through the middle of the sending unit on my gas tank, $650 later i had a new sending unit, fuel lines, fuel tank, fuel tank straps, and new grounding location. lol. In that same car i had a RF 1 farad cap that had stripped terminals on it (dont buy crap used from best buy) and the power wire shorted out and touched ground when i was swapping amps out. I had my xs power s3400 under the hood and hooked up (insert face palm here) without removing the fuse since i thought i was safe and the wire grounded out and for the split second it lasted it popped so loud and had so much power behind it, it managed to blow a hole directly through the ring terminal itself and cracked a piece off the terminal on my capacitor. Then another time i used 4ga wire (the shop told me it would handle this current, what a lie that was) for my 1400w rms amp that always put out no less than 1200w at a 4 ohm bridged load. Well right after the fuse block the wire and fuse block itself got really hot from all that power going through and melted back 6 inches and was 1/4 of a inch away from grounding out completely on the frame of my engine bay. The dumbasses also sold me a fuse block made for 1/0 gauge wire and it did not have a reducer to make it accept 4ga so the wire was loose in there and they told me "cut more of the sheeting off the wire and double over the wire by folding it a few times". Edit: I also learned how bad clipping is for your system. I wasted well over $1800 in subs from me clipping them to all hell. I had pics of my solox on here in a shitty box where the coil was pitch black. I blew 2 kicker cvx's, two fusion reactor's (no not the ones used for power haha), kicker solox, elevation audio sqx, pioneer entry level edition sub, and another sub idr the brand of. Burnt coils have a nasty smell to them and burning a good woofer sucks!!! Anyways thats how i learned not to work in the dark, listen to half the crap the installers in my area tell me, and how to go on here and really learn how to do this on my own the RIGHT way. 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bumonskateboard6 Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 With a different car a while back I put two 18s in a 7cf PORTED box allegedly tuned to 32hz... manufacturer actually recommended this and provided cut sheets! Did 144db at 45hz and 128db at 32hz, LMAO... Loudest frequency isn't necessarily the tuning frequency. Most the bad crap that's happened to me has been the result of other people bringing me stuff they installed themselves. Bare wires electrical taped to battery terminals, cranked gains, cooked coils, one amp that was visibly melted on the case and ran?? Probably the worst mistake I've made would be breaking some panels that were clipped in, and having a drill bit go into a wire loom on the other side of the firewall and tear a few wires, all repaired though with some heat shrink and solder Current Systems: 2011 BMW 335i Hertz HDP1 DC LVL3 12" Full Carbon Fiber 2002 Acura TlKenwood DNX9980HD2 DCLVL4 12" Subs with LVL5 Parts D.7 CoilsDC 3.5kHertz HSK-165 up front HCX-165 RearHertz HDP4 AmpDC Power Engineering 260 Amp AltBig 3 and amp powered with KNU 1/0XS Power D2400 Up Front i pulled out my dick in class many of times and had it shown. get over it bitch...stupid open legged hairy beavered bitch... going over rms = smaller box, under rms = bigger box... Low voltage doesn't blow amps. That's a myth. A router that does the sub holes makes rounded edges also? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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