roscoe1129 Posted November 25, 2007 Report Posted November 25, 2007 Stop taking my I deas Audio! I only get one a week and your taking them! You could also try some 14 awg wire to see if that adds the resistance needed.... Some people need a sympathetic pat... on the head...with my hammer Scientia est Vox "In Nomine Patris et Filii et Spiritus Sancti" DONT BE AFRAID TO USE THE SEARCH BUTTON!!! SMD SUPER BUYER/SELLER
Chris Posted November 25, 2007 Author Report Posted November 25, 2007 Man that sucks chris. It looks real good too. them amps look huge on the back of that box too But if you needed a spot to build a box, we could of used my kitchen (its my indoor heated/ac'ed garage w/munchies galore)... Did you take the cover off the top of the amp at all? There are a few allen screws that hold the circuit board to the black back plate that is mounted to the sides with 4 allen screws.. The top cover comes off fairly easy. After you take the cover off that covers the wires, there are 2 silver screws that must come out. Then there are 3 more screws on the front black panel of the amp where all the connections are, take out the fuse, and a plastic clip holding the plastic cover inplace by the Rca's. All pieces pop into place for the most part. I had mine apart and made sure everything was all tight when I got it. If you need more resistance just add a few extra feet to the speaker wires. Im running 8gauge out my amp and having no problem with resistance being to low, but my coils on the kickers read from 2.1-2.9 a coil also so Im no where near a 1ohm load. You can test resistance on the wire with the volt meter so you can fairly figure out when you have that extra .3 ohms of resistance per sub. Yeah This problem really gets me pissed, cuz I know that it's so baddass, yet for once I just can't figure it out. Thanks for the offer on building the box. I might have to take you up on that sometime, it's just that sheboygan is a good hour & 1/2 fro me. I'm thinking I'll have to try upping the resistance somehow, but first I'll mess with some bass settings. No one has a clue how to bypass protection hey? I wonder if it's even possible on the newer power series? 4 15" FI Q D2's in 12 cubes tuned to 32hz 1- T1000.1bd's 3 Maxx 29 deep cycles 4 runs of 1/0 gauge -Big 3 -Trunk sealed off from the cabin Custom 15.8 dual-volt switching MLA module All in a CAR.
Andrew Posted November 25, 2007 Report Posted November 25, 2007 Bypassing that protection is risky man especially on nice amps like those. Did you check out the fuse block up front yet? New project in the works
audiofanaticz Posted November 26, 2007 Report Posted November 26, 2007 Thought of a couple more things you could try. Just for shits and giggles, it may do something it may not. Do you have enough RCA cord to swap the rcas around to make the right amp master and left amp slave? If you do, and the right amp kicks protection like the left amp does you will know its not the amp(s) but maybe another problem. Since your using high input to rca converters, by any chance did the gains on them get bumped and are too high up? Did you try disconnecting the bass knob. Is one amp set on master and the other slave? if so try both amps on master. Maybe disconnect the slave amp and just run the master amp (the one that is going into protection) and see if it plays fine by itself. Is their anything lose moving around in the amp? Have you tried running the remote wire directly off the positive on the amps just to see if you are not getting enough juice to keep the amps on? This maybe a bit more work, but have you pulled out the sub and inspected the tinsel wires to make sure that one is not torn/ripped and is occasionally making contact with another tinsel wire and tripping the amp into protection? When your master amp goes into protect, can you tell if your slave amp and sub is working the same as it was with both amps running? Just some trial and error ideas I had been thinking about while laying in bed and wanted to get them out before I passed out. Oh and sorry for stealing your idea Roscoe, I didnt think it would of been that good of one any ways since I am a noob and know no facts... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif
dmanson Posted November 26, 2007 Report Posted November 26, 2007 now i have two amps pushing my RF t2 and one kept going into protect when i'd bang it hard, only one of the amps as in this situation. well i had to cut the h/u off and then back on for the amp to cut back on and light would stay green until i cut it back up and bang it hard again. so to fix the problem, i upgraded from the cheap rcas to some stinger and that seemed to work for awhiled, i was able to cut it up and it wouldn't do anything. then i cut the volume up a lil past the point i normally do when that one amp would cut off and it went into protect. come to find out my gain was too high, cut my gain on that amp down a tad bit and it fixed the problem. 2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s 1-DC 5K amp (1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR) 3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative. (2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear) Audiocontrol 3.1. DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module
Benji0687 Posted November 26, 2007 Report Posted November 26, 2007 i'm about 90% sure whats going on with your setup. i had a similar problem with my 1501d when I first bought it. Turned out it was one of the RCA inputs on the amp was loose and would cut in and out when I stopped/accelerated. Simply just wiggling the RCAs while the system is on can help you to find out. Also, evaluate one RCA at a time, so you can isolate the problem easier. If you dont understand what i'm saying just let me know and i'll try my best to guide you through it. But to me, it sounds almost exactly like the problem I had..and it was VERY frustrating!! Good luck bro 1989 Chevy Caprice Classic350ci V8 High Performance JVC Arsenal HU JL XR series components Infinity Reference 6x9s Pioneer Premier 4-Channel Clarion 2-Channel Rockford Fosgate Series 1 2-Channel Fusion 2000.1D MTX Crossover RF, Knu, Kicker, and Monster wiring NVX VCW 12in. Sub **Won on here from the Sonic contest!** *Build log coming soon!* Starting all over pretty much which the gear listed...lost almost everything I had, including my life. Never take life and what's in it for granted.
roscoe1129 Posted November 26, 2007 Report Posted November 26, 2007 Oh and sorry for stealing your idea Roscoe, I didnt think it would of been that good of one any ways since I am a noob and know no facts... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif Yeah NOOB! Some people need a sympathetic pat... on the head...with my hammer Scientia est Vox "In Nomine Patris et Filii et Spiritus Sancti" DONT BE AFRAID TO USE THE SEARCH BUTTON!!! SMD SUPER BUYER/SELLER
Chris Posted November 26, 2007 Author Report Posted November 26, 2007 Okay Also, I noticed yesterday that I have some pretty bad engine noise coming through my subs, would this be acting like a clipped signal & sending my amps into protect even with the gains ALL THE WAY DOWN? 4 15" FI Q D2's in 12 cubes tuned to 32hz 1- T1000.1bd's 3 Maxx 29 deep cycles 4 runs of 1/0 gauge -Big 3 -Trunk sealed off from the cabin Custom 15.8 dual-volt switching MLA module All in a CAR.
j_black10 Posted November 26, 2007 Report Posted November 26, 2007 Sounds like bad grounds to me. I would re-ground everything just to be safe. AudioControlRockford FosgateXSPower
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