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Who can get me a recone for this sub?


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you could use a router bit made for steel and run it around the top plate to get your required size without taking it apart. Just make sure you put something in the gap so you dont have it full of filings.

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

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well shit. do i have to take it apart to machine it? because that is gonna be more trouble than this thing is worth lol

Yes, you do!

You have to demagnetize it, or it be a pita to take it apart, then machine the top plate opening bigger, then put it together, magnetize it, then build it up.

bumpinbuick did it to these motors on CACO. Im sure he has pics.

 

 

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well shit. do i have to take it apart to machine it? because that is gonna be more trouble than this thing is worth lol

Yes, you do!

You have to demagnetize it, or it be a pita to take it apart, then machine the top plate opening bigger, then put it together, magnetize it, then build it up.

bumpinbuick did it to these motors on CACO. Im sure he has pics.

Two other options

1: Steel router bit

2: Big-ass lathe and just clamp the motor in the jaws.

Careful about heat when cutting in either case...

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

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Two other options

1: Steel router bit

2: Big-ass lathe and just clamp the motor in the jaws.

Careful about heat when cutting in either case...

Neither work...

What happens when you take magnitized metal, and then start cutting it. Where are those shavings going to go????

Inside the motor... You will never get them out without taking apart the woofer.. They will scratch and damage every coil you put in it.

Besides the fact your not fiting a router bit of anysorts in a gap that is smaller then 1/4inch let alone how will you end up keeping it circular. You would need to use a trace bit, and you run into the the problem of the ferrite magnet slugs are no where near the same internal diameter of the top plat gap.

The magnets slugs usually have 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch larger internal diamater then the top plate gap.

The woofers magnet force comes from the top plate. This is where all the ferrite slugs are focusing the magnetic force, that thin little top plate, not the entire height of the motor.

 

 

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Two other options

1: Steel router bit

2: Big-ass lathe and just clamp the motor in the jaws.

Careful about heat when cutting in either case...

Neither work...

What happens when you take magnitized metal, and then start cutting it. Where are those shavings going to go????

Inside the motor... You will never get them out without taking apart the woofer.. They will scratch and damage every coil you put in it.

Besides the fact your not fiting a router bit of anysorts in a gap that is smaller then 1/4inch let alone how will you end up keeping it circular. You would need to use a trace bit, and you run into the the problem of the ferrite magnet slugs are no where near the same internal diameter of the top plat gap.

The magnets slugs usually have 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch larger internal diamater then the top plate gap.

The woofers magnet force comes from the top plate. This is where all the ferrite slugs are focusing the magnetic force, that thin little top plate, not the entire height of the motor.

Put a towel in the motor when you lathe it.

Trace bits are to keep things even, hence it would stay circular as long as you handle them correctly. Yes it would be hard to find a bit to fit the gap. Adjust the bit in the router to use the upper non-cutting surface as the trace guide when finishing the cut at the underside of the top plate. No, it wouldnt be perfect and yes it would be messy, but it is doable.

The lathe is the best option without taking the motor apart.

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

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Do you think before you post... take a woofer apart, there is nothing to use to trace, unless you make the gap over a inch wide.........................

And how are you going to put a towel in a gap that is like 1/8inch wide...

I had these woofers apart, I wouldnt touch them, since to make them work is with some cheap parts. not worth the hassle trying to make them better, or spend that kinda money on a cheaper sub, so I told the guy where to go to get it done properly, not rigged...

Trying to hack the top plate out and not even have it even is going to be a huge lose in BL unless you can keep it dead nuts even all the way around, which you cant do free hand..

And finding a router bit metal or not is not happening.. Hell the smallest wood router bit shanks are 1/4 inch shanks, and most cnc bits are at miniumum 1/2 inch shank

All your trying to do is over rigging methods...

And Im sure everyone has a lathe in their garage to go make the gap bigger...............

 

 

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I got this motor in a trade and matt was supposed to buy it. Then he said he didn't want it cause of this thread lol. So I sold it to a local guy today for $50.

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