D-train-13k Posted December 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2011 Perhaps you're out of time on your cam? or a bad timing sensor I know for my GM it took a computer to tell you what degree, and rotating the distributor CCW or CW to advance or retard the timing. For my truck -2 to +2 degrees was acceptable. im hoping that when i replaced the flywheel i didnt off the timing. seeing as how i needed to turn the crank to get the bolts out unless your timing belt/chain was off or broken you shouldnt have thrown your timing off. it almost sounds like a fuel issue. check the vaccuum lines going to the fuel pressure regulator. if there are any cracks or breaks, replace it. also it couldnt hurt to throw a new fuel filter on it. im thinking its a vaccum issue on my pcv valve. the hose that releases the crank fumes into the intake is leaking like a mofo. gonna go replace that hose and the pcv tomorow. see if it helps The IrishmanCheck out my build hereXL 4th order wall build logIn Progress:alpine cda HU4th order Bandpass2xl 15's1- ab 400.1 (gonna be two hopefully)4- Crescendo 8's2- xts crecendo supertweeters 2 sq super tweetsMb quart 4.125Mechman 270a alt1- xs D27003- xs XP3000 4- odessey pc1700seller feed back threadhttp://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/136418-d-train-13k/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chernenburn Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 Perhaps you're out of time on your cam? or a bad timing sensor I know for my GM it took a computer to tell you what degree, and rotating the distributor CCW or CW to advance or retard the timing. For my truck -2 to +2 degrees was acceptable. im hoping that when i replaced the flywheel i didnt off the timing. seeing as how i needed to turn the crank to get the bolts out unless your timing belt/chain was off or broken you shouldnt have thrown your timing off. it almost sounds like a fuel issue. check the vaccuum lines going to the fuel pressure regulator. if there are any cracks or breaks, replace it. also it couldnt hurt to throw a new fuel filter on it. im thinking its a vaccum issue on my pcv valve. the hose that releases the crank fumes into the intake is leaking like a mofo. gonna go replace that hose and the pcv tomorow. see if it helps Cam synchronizer. Does it squeak intermittently? If it does that is exactly what it is. The cam sensor reads off the can synchronizer. It is in the front of your engine and is driven off the cam like a distributor. it also regulates when your plus fire like a distributor. If that is what it is you can't do it. It takes special timing tool, only a ford dealer will have them. The labor will be about two hours plus diag. The 4.2 has one coil, prone to failure yes, not as bad as the coil packs used on the 5.4/4.6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith77 Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 Sounds like you may have it peged with the vacuume leak. Figuring out the codes (Autozone will pull codes for free) will help you out a bunch that way you are not throwing parts at it and not fixing the problem. It could be something as simple as bad plug wires. If when you plug the code reader into the OBDII connector and it will not power up you have a bad fuse somewhere (95% of the time). Check all your fuses, key off and key on. Replace bad fuese You will tend to spend more money guessing at the problem then spending the money taking it into a shop to have them check it out for you. You could just pay for the diagnosis and take the truck home and fix it yourself. Thats cool. Im way too old to be upset by shit like that. Your name is winston. Your own parents hated you even before you were born. My penis is bigger than your penis I'm far from loud and my roof/headliner flaps around like Adam's ass on a windy day. I think it depends more on the structure of the vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chernenburn Posted December 16, 2011 Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 Sounds like you may have it peged with the vacuume leak. Figuring out the codes (Autozone will pull codes for free) will help you out a bunch that way you are not throwing parts at it and not fixing the problem. It could be something as simple as bad plug wires. If when you plug the code reader into the OBDII connector and it will not power up you have a bad fuse somewhere (95% of the time). Check all your fuses, key off and key on. Replace bad fuese You will tend to spend more money guessing at the problem then spending the money taking it into a shop to have them check it out for you. You could just pay for the diagnosis and take the truck home and fix it yourself. Replace the cigarette lighter/power point fuse that if the fuse that powers the obd2 dlc. I didn't read all of your post last night so I jumped to conclusions from prior experience. You already had o2 sensor codes and your air boot is leaking.so, your engine is getting air in it that the mass air flow didn't read. So it starts up, has low rpm cuz its so lean(unmetered air means the computer doesn't know to give more fue)l the o2s pick up the lean condition and the fuel given to the engine is adjusted and your idle levels out. The codes you have that are o2 related are likely bank 1 and bank 2 lean codes they will come up when long term fuel trims are adjusted 20% over norm which its what is happening with so much unmetered air. Fix your air boot. Replace the fuse and go see if any thing other than lean codes are in it.if there are more codes write them down and clear them they may have been related to your lean condition Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95legwagon Posted December 16, 2011 Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 sounds like a vacuum leak to me.... ford trucks are known for it...... mainly intake manifold gasket on the old fords and hoses on all of em lol good luck though! i think there real i was looking through that guys stuff he sells and it looks like he finds stuff at auctions and just sells it Yea, it looks like someone got the mids about a month ago....shit. If I had a whole Hertz front stage my ears would jizz all over my cheeks. / LOL My Low Budget Build: Green 1995 Subaru Legacy wagon 147k- $1K headunit- pioneer premier deh-p650-$25 4 Lead acid batts. 1 up front and 3 in back- vented outside.- $50 4 vvme L11 10"s <- $30 shipped a piece 6 cu. ft box (after displacment) tuned to 32ish hz with 10 inch sonotube. -about $50 all together maybe a lil more 2 aspm 1300 strapped Selenium 6"s in the front doors on headunit power- for now -$20 quantum tweets in door-for now -$10 boston acoustic 5 1/4 in rear doors- for now-Free big 3 1/0 and 4awg throughout. roof sound deadened (not peel n seal ftw)-free on 80 amp alt (bench tested to put out 100 amps faithfully) <--?-$10 for test about $430 for everything<----Not bad at all still gotta add 3 way crossover, amp for front and rear door speakers and maybe eq Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-train-13k Posted December 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2011 Sounds like you may have it peged with the vacuume leak. Figuring out the codes (Autozone will pull codes for free) will help you out a bunch that way you are not throwing parts at it and not fixing the problem. It could be something as simple as bad plug wires. If when you plug the code reader into the OBDII connector and it will not power up you have a bad fuse somewhere (95% of the time). Check all your fuses, key off and key on. Replace bad fuese You will tend to spend more money guessing at the problem then spending the money taking it into a shop to have them check it out for you. You could just pay for the diagnosis and take the truck home and fix it yourself. Replace the cigarette lighter/power point fuse that if the fuse that powers the obd2 dlc. I didn't read all of your post last night so I jumped to conclusions from prior experience. You already had o2 sensor codes and your air boot is leaking.so, your engine is getting air in it that the mass air flow didn't read. So it starts up, has low rpm cuz its so lean(unmetered air means the computer doesn't know to give more fue)l the o2s pick up the lean condition and the fuel given to the engine is adjusted and your idle levels out. The codes you have that are o2 related are likely bank 1 and bank 2 lean codes they will come up when long term fuel trims are adjusted 20% over norm which its what is happening with so much unmetered air. Fix your air boot. Replace the fuse and go see if any thing other than lean codes are in it.if there are more codes write them down and clear them they may have been related to your lean condition about the obd2 plug.. ive checked every fuse. but only one of the cigarette lighters doesnt work. im guessing thats the one in line with the obd2 plug. and the problem was the vaccume leak along with a bad Throttle position sensor. The IrishmanCheck out my build hereXL 4th order wall build logIn Progress:alpine cda HU4th order Bandpass2xl 15's1- ab 400.1 (gonna be two hopefully)4- Crescendo 8's2- xts crecendo supertweeters 2 sq super tweetsMb quart 4.125Mechman 270a alt1- xs D27003- xs XP3000 4- odessey pc1700seller feed back threadhttp://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/136418-d-train-13k/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricM9104 Posted December 19, 2011 Report Share Posted December 19, 2011 IAC valve. Intake gaskets. That's all I'll say 2015 Honda Civic LX 4dr | 24k miles Stock H/U and mids/highs Power Acoustik GW3-12" D2 Sub HiFonics BXX1200.1D @ 1ohm Random 2.5^3' dual ported box NVX LOC Stinger wiring throughout 1977 Chevy SWB Cammed 350 Dual exhaust Cheap Wish stereo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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