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Posted

lol, yeah first time build can be tricky. do a google search for a program called google sketchup i just got it and learned how to use it in under 30 mins. there some you tube videos that help with learning how to do it. you use the program to make a 3d model of your box using the cut sheet the torres calc gives you. there is even a tape measure tool on there so that you can measure the end results of the box to make sure it is correct

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

Posted

yes, it does depend on how you assemble it. i'll probably change the cut sheet to match what you're saying as that would be easier to assemble if someone decides to use that cut sheet.

 

 

Posted

It seems like the cut sheet list doesnt care about the number or thickness of baffles, but the displacement is taken in account so it's like the added baffles goes on the inside of the original one. Then it's up to you to decide if you want to shorten the sides or put the second baffle on the inside parameter of the walls. Or just slap the extra baffle on top, and you put in 16.25 as your height to give you the right internal volume without worriyng about the extra baffle. There are so many ways :shrug:

I would put the bottom baffle on the inside of the walls to give the box "Z" joints between the walls and baffles, giving you almost double contact area.

And I think you are correct aobut the port height of 14.75in when wanting 17in total height :good:

I'm still awake now at 5:29 AM so don't be mad if I eff'd up a little..

Posted

It seems like the cut sheet list doesnt care about the number or thickness of baffles, but the displacement is taken in account so it's like the added baffles goes on the inside of the original one. Then it's up to you to decide if you want to shorten the sides or put the second baffle on the inside parameter of the walls. Or just slap the extra baffle on top, and you put in 16.25 as your height to give you the right internal volume without worriyng about the extra baffle. There are so many ways :shrug:

I would put the bottom baffle on the inside of the walls to give the box "Z" joints between the walls and baffles, giving you almost double contact area.

And I think you are correct aobut the port height of 14.75in when wanting 17in total height :good:

I'm still awake now at 5:29 AM so don't be mad if I eff'd up a little..

this has been the most helpful reply!

so i should just keep my port height at 14.75, change the height of the box to like 16.25, since that will account for the extra .75 baffle on top, which gives me the right air space.

Posted (edited)

No wait, I'm confused.. How does removing .75 from the height take up a full cube, but adding another baffle to a sub up setup remove only .39cf? And with the height being the same.

Edit: Also changning the with of the port doesn't change the net volume until a certain point where it jumps a whole cube. I must be doing something horribly wrong?

Edited by zxsonnyxz
Posted

yea man im so confused. i dont see me getting anywhere with this, not to mention my wires got shipped to my other address and i cant pick them up until ,mon or tues, so theres no way i can build the box till after i move my rear battery bank

Posted

Other than the calculator, what is the real problem? Is it figuring out the whole box with volume and tuning, or just getting the cutsheet for those numbers you have?

Posted

The problem is figuring out a box that's tuned to 33-35 hz, preferably 34hz, with each sub having 3 cubes each after displacement, while using a double baffle with the subs facing up, not to mention my strict dimensions at 17 h 36 w and a generous 28 depth.

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