Alternator squeak

[numatik]

Im trying to figure out a way to align this alt. I just started another thread asking about it, hopefully somebody knows cause im clueless, and a google search didnt help at all

[kickass audio]

i really dont know. The only thing i could think of but it would probably be worse off is to enlarge the mounting holes on the alt to make it come forward. I dont think you can unbolt the pulley on an alt and put a washer behind it and bolt it back on but i dont know. Ive never done that before. For all i know it could be possible.

[numatik]

The alt has a torque bolt in the center, then a bolt around it, I dont know how to get it off. Im gonna call the alt shop that did work on it and ask how to do it, or if he could do it maybe. Im just poor. I wish I could move the alt forward, but it sits in the bracket, so I dont know... Hopefully somebody on here has had the same problem

[kickass audio]

Its just like that special tool they used on the power steering pump. What the tool does is sit inside the torx head which lays just inside the nut and another part goes on the nut of the alt itself. When you unscrew it you are basically holding the torx part stationary and unscrewing the nut from the shaft to remove the pulley. Its very similar to the retarded ass way GM made my end links on my envoys sway bars. They had the same torx pattern on the bolt and hex head nuts to hold it to the truck. Well if the fuel tank wasnt on or the body you go in there with a torx adapter to fit in the hole and then convert it to a rachet, then take a wrench and back off the bolt.

For your alt id really seek assistance and confirmation with someone who builds alts like mechman, mike singer, etc, before you attempt this but from what i can see this is how you can get around it...

1.) get yourself a thru ratchet set similar to this... http://www.lowes.com/pd_70128-1074-22398_0_?newSearch=true&catalogId=10051&productId=1098081&Ntt=70128&N=0&langId=-1&y=5&x=21&storeId=10151&Ntk=i_products&ddkey=http:CategoryDisplay i got a 46 piece kit from lowes and i LOVE the set, lifetime warranty, excellent price, superior durability (even when i had it come in contact with battery acid i never cleaned it for weeks and it didnt have any problems!!)

2.) Get yourself a fairly long torx socket and if needed an extra rachet that has a good length arm on it to help put pressure on the torx part of the alt to back off the nut. You also want it to be long enough so it doesnt get obstructed by the thru rachet when you back off the bolt and stop the torx screwdriver from holding the alt still.

What you will do is first make sure the torx screw driver is long enough to slip through the thru-rachet to not have any obstructions or any problems where the torx screwdriver may be forced off the torx bolt on the alt. Once you make sure of this put the thru rachet on the alts nut and then the torx rachet on the alt. You will want to hold the torx one as still as possible, i dont recommend spinning it while loosening the bolt. Turn the bolt counter clockwise (duh) and do it until it comes loose enough for you to remove it by hand.

Basically what you are doing is holding the alt still while you back off the nut on it. DO NOT shove a screwdriver in the housing of the alt to jam it in the fans of the alt to try and keep the alt from spinning. Those fins are weak and will break when under the extreme load of backing the bolt off. Also DO NOT try to remove the pulley with the belt still on the alt.

[mlstrass]

A quick squirt of WD-40 on the belt would have told you in a second if the belt was slipping or not.

And most HO alts have a smaller pulley to increase idle output, which requires a smaller belt. Your hot pulley right after start up would indicate a slipping belt 99% of the time.

[Hunters21w]

Yea did you ever try a smaller belt? I swapped belts until the squeak went away. Also, gator backs like you mentioned are nice. I'd clean it up with the brake parts cleaner and swap belts until you can't go smaller and/or it stops squeaking. Good luck bro!

[numatik]

Its just like that special tool they used on the power steering pump. What the tool does is sit inside the torx head which lays just inside the nut and another part goes on the nut of the alt itself. When you unscrew it you are basically holding the torx part stationary and unscrewing the nut from the shaft to remove the pulley. Its very similar to the retarded ass way GM made my end links on my envoys sway bars. They had the same torx pattern on the bolt and hex head nuts to hold it to the truck. Well if the fuel tank wasnt on or the body you go in there with a torx adapter to fit in the hole and then convert it to a rachet, then take a wrench and back off the bolt.

For your alt id really seek assistance and confirmation with someone who builds alts like mechman, mike singer, etc, before you attempt this but from what i can see this is how you can get around it...

1.) get yourself a thru ratchet set similar to this... http://www.lowes.com/pd_70128-1074-22398_0_?newSearch=true&catalogId=10051&productId=1098081&Ntt=70128&N=0&langId=-1&y=5&x=21&storeId=10151&Ntk=i_products&ddkey=http:CategoryDisplay i got a 46 piece kit from lowes and i LOVE the set, lifetime warranty, excellent price, superior durability (even when i had it come in contact with battery acid i never cleaned it for weeks and it didnt have any problems!!)

2.) Get yourself a fairly long torx socket and if needed an extra rachet that has a good length arm on it to help put pressure on the torx part of the alt to back off the nut. You also want it to be long enough so it doesnt get obstructed by the thru rachet when you back off the bolt and stop the torx screwdriver from holding the alt still.

What you will do is first make sure the torx screw driver is long enough to slip through the thru-rachet to not have any obstructions or any problems where the torx screwdriver may be forced off the torx bolt on the alt. Once you make sure of this put the thru rachet on the alts nut and then the torx rachet on the alt. You will want to hold the torx one as still as possible, i dont recommend spinning it while loosening the bolt. Turn the bolt counter clockwise (duh) and do it until it comes loose enough for you to remove it by hand.

Basically what you are doing is holding the alt still while you back off the nut on it. DO NOT shove a screwdriver in the housing of the alt to jam it in the fans of the alt to try and keep the alt from spinning. Those fins are weak and will break when under the extreme load of backing the bolt off. Also DO NOT try to remove the pulley with the belt still on the alt.

Ah that makes sense I didnt think of that. I have some dog bone wrenches that should fit up no problem and I shouldnt have a problem at all using one of my torx bits through. Lol youd have to be pretty dumb to stick a screwdriver into the case of an alt to stop the pulley from spinning. It takes alot of idiots to make the world go around tho right? haha. Im probably gonna call the alt shop 2marro and ask what he thinks about the alignment, and about shimming it. It does seem like the best solution for the alt alignment, but it dosnt hurt to ask just to make sure. I had a busy day today, I didnt get a chance.

A quick squirt of WD-40 on the belt would have told you in a second if the belt was slipping or not.

And most HO alts have a smaller pulley to increase idle output, which requires a smaller belt. Your hot pulley right after start up would indicate a slipping belt 99% of the time.

Yea did you ever try a smaller belt? I swapped belts until the squeak went away. Also, gator backs like you mentioned are nice. I'd clean it up with the brake parts cleaner and swap belts until you can't go smaller and/or it stops squeaking. Good luck bro!

My motor has a spring tensioner. When the tension is off (by inserting a 3/8" ratchet and pulling down) the factory size belt fits just enough to fit around the pulleys and into the grooves of the pulleys. even if a belt was an extra inch or 2 longer the tensioner would still tighten and with the same amount of tension as a regular size belt because of how the spring tension works. A smaller belt wouldnt make it all the way around the pulleys

[numatik]

Kickass audio, some other guys on the other thread said I could just use my impact. But I wouldnt have thought of doing it the way you said, so other people will search and find your solution. It is very clever, I didnt think of doing it that way, I just figured there was some specialty tool that could also be used for that. I didnt even think of using an impact I thought it could damage it, but several others have used it with no problems

[kickass audio]

I wouldnt advise to use the impact gun on the alt. You can over tighten the nut and break the pulley or even worse the spindle on the alt. Id prefer to use the method i said because you can control the torque needed to take the nut off and put it back on with. Also when you put it back on there are washers and crap inside there a lot of the time and you dont want to bolt it on with the impact gun for the risk of getting the washer warped and causing the pulley to be bent out of place. Its your call but id say dont do it with your impact gun, do it like i said and have a working alt when you are done. They do have a special tool for it but a open end socket and a long torx socket is all you need to have and it will still get the job done just fine.

[mlstrass]

<<<My motor has a spring tensioner. When the tension is off (by inserting a 3/8" ratchet and pulling down) the factory size belt fits just enough to fit around the pulleys and into the grooves of the pulleys. even if a belt was an extra inch or 2 longer the tensioner would still tighten and with the same amount of tension as a regular size belt because of how the spring tension works. A smaller belt wouldnt make it all the way around the pulleys>>>

majority of new vehicles have a spring tensioner and a smaller belt will create more tension. Did you notice that the tensioner gets tighter as you move it to remove the belt, because you're compressing the spring more. A 1" shorter belt can make a huge difference.

When you release the tenioner with the belt in place how much does it move? You want a belt that barely lets it move so it has more force. I've installed plenty of HO alts on different vehicles and shorter belt is needed 99% of the time...