Mad_Mike Posted January 4, 2012 Report Posted January 4, 2012 I built a box for three 12" subs, I didn't think it would need bracing because it's only 40" x 24".. but I guess I do. It's flexing on top and spitting screws out so now the subs are rattling against the wood lol. I was thinking I could glue and screw down another 3/4 peice on top and cut the holes again.. Do you guys think 1.5 inch thickness will keep it from flexing? He's the box design: Quote
Trigg Posted January 4, 2012 Report Posted January 4, 2012 It will help, but over time you will be better off having some kind of bracing in the box. Quote there is some VERY hard headed people out there. Anyone who says a DD-1 isnt necessary is also saying an O-scope isnt necessary. Anyone who says an O-scope IN THE MINIMUM isnt necessary, is a noob. Forget the DD-1 for a minute, any reputable installer will at LEAST use an O-scope. Those guys in that thread are clowns. Hard headed clowns.
OrionStang Posted January 4, 2012 Report Posted January 4, 2012 Brace it, then add a baffle on top like you said. Quote SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread
Dax Posted January 4, 2012 Report Posted January 4, 2012 double baffle and bracing as stated above Quote The Midget Looks Into Your Soul 2008 Dodge am 3500HD with the 6.7 Cummins Race Me tuner, dpf deleted kenwood double din cheap walmart speakers for now(infinity reference comps comps coming soon) 2 kicker L5's in a ported box of unknown tuning lol(soon to be changed) Power acoustic 1500.1 on the subs (for now)
Mad_Mike Posted January 4, 2012 Author Report Posted January 4, 2012 Okay. Since I'm bracing it, you think if I screw the braces in I can just glue and nail the 2nd baffle to the first? It'd be easier so I don't have to plug more screw sink holes. Quote
SnowDrifter Posted January 4, 2012 Report Posted January 4, 2012 (edited) Yes to the dual layer baffle, and a 2x4 from the bottom of the box up to the back of the baffle in the middle (glue, then fiberglass this in place) I would say do the same between the front and back walls too Or instead of a 2x4, go to home depot and get something called all thread - its basically a metal rod but with thread on it. Get some nuts and washers to go with, thread it through your box and secure it in place with the nuts (on either side of each panel it goes through) Edited January 4, 2012 by SnowDrifter Quote ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444
Mad_Mike Posted January 4, 2012 Author Report Posted January 4, 2012 I don't have fiberglass and can't get any here any time soon.. The threaded rods sound like a good idea.. but then I'd have big nuts bulging from my box. You don't think screws and some 2x4 are good enough? I was gunna do two braces right between the sub holes and screw them in with 2-3 screws on each side and then glue and nail the top baffle on to hide all the screw sink holes. Sound good? Quote
OrionStang Posted January 4, 2012 Report Posted January 4, 2012 That will work. Quote SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread
Bmike Posted January 4, 2012 Report Posted January 4, 2012 2x4s and screws are just fine, maybee even a little bit of wood glue. Quote 2007 trailblazer lthead unit- pioneer p4300dvd crescendo ft-1 supertweeters pioneer m650 pros audiocontrol 2xs crossover Rockford fosgate p200-2 highsrockford fosgate p400-2 mids1- fi btl 18amps- saz 3500battery- evermax in front, 2 9a31 dekas in rearwires all knuconceptz 1/0 and rcas
TeamHT Posted January 4, 2012 Report Posted January 4, 2012 Is the box glued at all or only screwed? Quote Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you?
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