n8ball2013 Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 did you shim it? Quote THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Posted January 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 lol, I shimmed it. That was just the pessimist in me coming out. It's all together. Coils read a steady 2.1 so we'll see when it's all cured up in the morning. I plan on using it in a sub for my garage. Any suggestions on the tuning/size of enclosure? And type-r's are a pain in the ass! As long as it makes music I'll be happy. I am about to upload some pics from my phone and will post them in a while. I think I am going to try this with some other subs later on. Just gotta keep checking the for sale section for motors and baskets.lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dangrebel Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 I would just do the average size enclosure of a 12 and see what happens Quote 1999 GMC Yukon, 6 PSI platform 5 18's, 4th order bandpass by BHE, Taramps, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thorshammer Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 First step.... Measure coil and find the center and mark it. Second step Measure thickness of top plate, cut that in half and add it to the first line. Third step Align second mark to top of plate. This is how to center a coil properly. With shims in place spin your spider to seat at spider landing. Pull all of assembly back out and carefully add a bead of ca glue around bottom of spider at coil. Be sure not to move the spider or it will end up off setting coil and it will ruub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Posted January 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 these type rs are a bit different. There is a plastic ring that holds down the bottom spider and you have to glue the spider to it before you screw the ring back down. I did some tricky aligning and am pretty sure it's good. Did the old "push on it" test.lol If it rubs I'll play it till it quits! How low should I tune the enclosure? I know home audio subs are tuned higher, I figure about 45hz or so. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I am Poncho Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 not that high stay mid 30s youll be good. IMO Quote OLD BUILD LOG: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/166273-poncho-designs-trailblazer/ New car, new build coming soon... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thorshammer Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 these type rs are a bit different. There is a plastic ring that holds down the bottom spider and you have to glue the spider to it before you screw the ring back down. I did some tricky aligning and am pretty sure it's good. Did the old "push on it" test.lol If it rubs I'll play it till it quits! How low should I tune the enclosure? I know home audio subs are tuned higher, I figure about 45hz or so. Any ideas? Coil positioning is still the same bro. Once you set first spider hieght then you worry about bolting it to the frame. The only reason they use the bolt down rings is thier cheap glue doesnt hold a candle to our American glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Posted January 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 I know the coil needs to be centered. I am sure it's good. I'll see in the morning. I got the kit off ebay and hope it was worth it. Definitely not a "drop in" recone! So far I have $70.00 into it. I could have gotten a working 10" Type R for around the same price for sure, but I wanted to see if I could rebuild a blown one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 First step.... Measure coil and find the center and mark it. Second step Measure thickness of top plate, cut that in half and add it to the first line. Third step Align second mark to top of plate. This is how to center a coil properly. With shims in place spin your spider to seat at spider landing. Pull all of assembly back out and carefully add a bead of ca glue around bottom of spider at coil. Be sure not to move the spider or it will end up off setting coil and it will ruub. this right here! I also always measure my height to my spider landing and mark a line around the former with my calipar to give me where the spider needs to be on the former before setting the coil in the gap to get the spiders even with the coils shimmed out. 1 extra step but works much quicker imo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Posted January 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 so I just gave the sub a "free air test" with a directed 1500d, lawnmower battery and a Sansa. I knew I should have sewn the tinsel leads but I was in a hurry! Aside from a little lead slap it gets down! Gonna try and get some wood and do up a little enclosure today for the wife's car! I'll try to make a video when it's done. I was surprised how much power it took, I know free air doesn't show it's full potential but it took the amp most of the way up and didn't bottom out and there was no coil rub! I am a bad ass!lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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