Huge wire

[Kdub26]

i've read every page of this thread and can honestly say i have a headache now. i guess what this comes down to is the ease of use for this big of wire. and i must say, im impressed with the size of that wire. me, i would never use it. but like whats been stated, its for HUGE power systems. i nearly jizzed the first time i got ahold of 0g wire. now, i must take meds for my headache. and i shall watch the continue bashing each other with numbers, because i have no clue about any of it

[BobbyG2]

Hmm, maybe that gigantic wire would be good for your ground? I'd imagine it'd be too hard to wire that all the way through the car, and that's why most people do 1/0.

[doug118]

You have these big time SUV builds with the battery banks under the truck. Why would it be so hard to place a battery down low in the front of the truck? That would basically make it a straight shot from the front to the back when the wire is ran under the vehicle right? Even if the bank is in the back, you would just need 1 long radius 90 degree bend to come from underneath up into the back and connect to a bus bar

[KillaCam]

@Nelson I want to apologize for being a dick and assuming you were just trolling. You're knowledge level is way above mine and a good majority of the people here. Becoming an mecp master is quite an accomplishment and I respect that!

[bobwires]

You posted 8 minutes too early Can you explain why these amps have HIGHER power output at HIGHER voltage?

And electronics are rated in watts because the manufacturer knows what you'll be plugging it into. That's why almost all household electronics say something like 110~127VAC.

because current is the limiting factor. Car Audio amps are some of the only devices that give you 2 ratings, because you will see 2 voltages levels in use: Charging voltage, and battery voltage. Obviously these vary a lot from car to car, and with changing loads. Some manufacturers are inconsistent, or downright liars, so it became industry standard to give both ratings. Current is the limiting factor, so if the amp is capable of carrying 150amps through it, you're able to produce more at a higher voltage - but not that much higher. Run 24v to a 12v Amp and watch it fry 99% of the time. I think most max out at 16v.

You have these big time SUV builds with the battery banks under the truck. Why would it be so hard to place a battery down low in the front of the truck? That would basically make it a straight shot from the front to the back when the wire is ran under the vehicle right? Even if the bank is in the back, you would just need 1 long radius 90 degree bend to come from underneath up into the back and connect to a bus bar

This would be a good use for it. The biggest reason to have MASSIVE wire, or a lot of runs, is for a front battery bank. If you have 1 alt, 1 front battery, and a bank in the back, a huge wire running current down the frame won't help you all that much. But if you've got 2+ alts, 2 batts up front and NO rear batteries, you REALLY need to have the ability to send a lot of current in a hurry with low voltage drop.

@Nelson I want to apologize for being a dick and assuming you were just trolling. You're knowledge level is way above mine and a good majority of the people here. Becoming an mecp master is quite an accomplishment and I respect that!

Thanks a lot. Means a lot.

[bobwires]

Dude..... You totally missed the point...... Current limits EVERYTHING. If your lightbulb, wire, fuse, switch, could take 50 amps, it would. Plus if your battery is at 5v, how much is it rated for? What can it put out amp wise?

[Ballen194]

holy hell this was a huge pain in the ass to read. shit, even the big man SMD himself got in on this. but i think we all know now why we dont use such big ass wire.

[bobwires]

I'm not exactly sure what you mean about current being the limiting factor. Are you saying that when voltage goes up, the amps go down, therefore making less voltage drop across the internal wiring or whatever it may be? If that's what you're saying, then I guess I kind of understand.

Can you provide a realistic (specific) example of "volts go up, amps go down, watts remain constant"?

The main problem I'm having is this: If you have just a simple battery and resistor setup (say 1.5V), the resistance shouldn't change if you increase the voltage to 3V or whatever. If the resistance doesn't change then the amps as well as the power dissipated should both be higher with the higher voltage.

Example - my Trace Elliot Amp has selectable windings on the transformer to run at 110v or 220v. The amp current rating is half when you run 220.

I don't follow your battery example. What's the resistance Of the load?

Real world - an amp will put out more power (to a point) when you give it higher voltage. Why? Because the current can stay the same. For the sake of electrical comparisons on paper, something has to be fixed.

P=I/E this is all you need to study.

[bobwires]

I think I see where you're confused.

The internal resistance of an amplifier, and the resistance of a load (the speaker), are completely different things. You can technically calculate the Amp's resistance, but there is never a need. Don't worry about that. P=I/E

The resistor on the 1.5v battery you mentioned - We're talking about a cometely different application. Let's change that to a 4ohm sub on a 2000w amp. The amp is rated at a specific ohm load, say 1ohm, and the sub resistance is fixed. To say the voltage goes up, power goes up is absolutely correct. Give that sub 20v, then up it to 40v the overall power goes up. Drop the resistance down, then your power multiplies. On an Amp, the internal resistance fluctuates, but that's not the spec to worry about.

[bobwires]

Touch a chunk of wire to both ends of a AA battery. Dead short - should heat up right? Nope. There is not enough voltage to push those electrons through a little chunk of wire. That is why your light bulb won't heat up at 5v. Every device has an operating range of voltage, and a limit of how much current it can take.