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resistance is not the same thing as impedance. The wires resistance does not change no matter what kind of a circuit it is in. and even according to that chart, 12g wire has .15ohms per 100ft. Hell even 20g is only 1ohm per 100ft.

If you run enough power you will cause heat which will cause the resistance to increase.

That said, small wire isnt his problem. Running his driver free-air is.

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

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my sub is mounted in the decklid. also today i ran some more power wires from my distrabution block to my amp. also ran some more ground wires to the amp. i didnt have any more 2 guage wire so i ran 3 8 guage wires to each. equals a 2 guage if you think about it. pics are in my build thread. heres the link. also sub wont be there for long cause im going to be doing a new build. anyways here the link http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/132406-94-g20/

C-Fizzy, on 01 April 2012 - 01:06 PM, said:

Clip city bitch, clip clip city bitch. 10's, 12's, 15's, goin up in flames bitch.

Check out my build thread http://www.stevemead...product-page-2/

New build

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/172646-punkrocks-97-civic-build/

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Youngsters.... Running a sub free air is perfectly fine if the manufacturer rates their sub for free air. Many subs can be used as free air subs. Free airing was often done in the sq world amd I have heard it done with excellent results. Although it is not the most efficient use of the driver, it will work in some cases and do well, considering. It really is all about suspension and whether it can handle it. Free airing actually allows the sub to cool very well and thermal failure is less likely than use in a ported box operating near resonant frequency.

Using reverse phase is completely subjective. Running a sub 180 out of phase is merely the same as switching pos and neg speaker leads... Altering a sub phase is nice to help blend the the rest of the bass repsonse from the mids with the sub. I prefer variable phase shift, but you can't always get everything you want.

Too small of speaker wire is surely not the issue when running 300 watts rms... very little current in those wires. You are more than likely smellnig sub coil. Turn your gains down. Loudness isnt helping. 16 gauge wire is more than fine for any dcr load of 2 ohms and up at that power level.

The only thing putting bigger wire is doing is delivering more power to your sub... it is already seeing too much, so again, watch your gain and vulume knob

Edited by VOPA

04 Monochrome LT Chevy Tahoe

-A few wires, half a speaker, some watts

-All Black 6's

-Paint to Match, SS Bumper, Black grills.

-HID'ed and LED'ed

-A few performance enhancers

I have two nice subs for sale, but I am not allowed to help my fellow forum members by offering it to them for a nice price via my signature, sorry

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I must shamefully admit.....I had a sub in a cardboard box too when I was like 14..... :sorry:

1998 SS/T Ram Build Log

- Kenwood KVT-514 and KNA-G510 Navigation

- 2 DC Level 3 12"

- Components???

- Sundown ???

- Sundown???

- Knu Konceptz

- Second Skin Dampy Pro

- XS D6500

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Rambling here...operating d class sub amps at low ohms is considered an inefficient use of power on the output side of the amp. I often times sold and installed two dvc 4 ohm woofers with a 2 channel amp that did 400 rms at 4 ohm bridged and if you compare it to a 400 watt rms 1 ohm stabled d class sub amp, you may be more efficient with the use electrical power, but the d class amp has 4 times the current running through the speaker wires. The 2 channel usually sounds punchier too... operating at a much higher output voltage. Power is not always Power.

04 Monochrome LT Chevy Tahoe

-A few wires, half a speaker, some watts

-All Black 6's

-Paint to Match, SS Bumper, Black grills.

-HID'ed and LED'ed

-A few performance enhancers

I have two nice subs for sale, but I am not allowed to help my fellow forum members by offering it to them for a nice price via my signature, sorry

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Rambling here...operating d class sub amps at low ohms is considered an inefficient use of power on the output side of the amp. I often times sold and installed two dvc 4 ohm woofers with a 2 channel amp that did 400 rms at 4 ohm bridged and if you compare it to a 400 watt rms 1 ohm stabled d class sub amp, you may be more efficient with the use electrical power, but the d class amp has 4 times the current running through the speaker wires. The 2 channel usually sounds punchier too... operating at a much higher output voltage. Power is not always Power.

WHAT are you saying?

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yeah like i said im going to be working on a new build to have subs in a box again. the sub i have is free air compatable. i can hear it fine its a clean bass i just want more. so i will be fiberglassing the hole up. well part of it anyway so i can use it as a port into the cabin. i will be buying another kenwood 10 for now and building a box and amp rack when i get some money. eventually i wanna buy a sundown amp and 2 sundown 10s

C-Fizzy, on 01 April 2012 - 01:06 PM, said:

Clip city bitch, clip clip city bitch. 10's, 12's, 15's, goin up in flames bitch.

Check out my build thread http://www.stevemead...product-page-2/

New build

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/172646-punkrocks-97-civic-build/

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or dc audio havnt decided yet

C-Fizzy, on 01 April 2012 - 01:06 PM, said:

Clip city bitch, clip clip city bitch. 10's, 12's, 15's, goin up in flames bitch.

Check out my build thread http://www.stevemead...product-page-2/

New build

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/172646-punkrocks-97-civic-build/

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Share on other sites

Rambling here...operating d class sub amps at low ohms is considered an inefficient use of power on the output side of the amp. I often times sold and installed two dvc 4 ohm woofers with a 2 channel amp that did 400 rms at 4 ohm bridged and if you compare it to a 400 watt rms 1 ohm stabled d class sub amp, you may be more efficient with the use electrical power, but the d class amp has 4 times the current running through the speaker wires. The 2 channel usually sounds punchier too... operating at a much higher output voltage. Power is not always Power.

WHAT are you saying?

I was just rambling on from my previous post, thinking about why this gentleman didn't need large speaker wire for his application... Thinking back to all the people that insisted upon on us giving them the biggest speaker were for their system becuase it hits harder that way. of course you need multiple runs of 10 guage to support 10 amps of current.

04 Monochrome LT Chevy Tahoe

-A few wires, half a speaker, some watts

-All Black 6's

-Paint to Match, SS Bumper, Black grills.

-HID'ed and LED'ed

-A few performance enhancers

I have two nice subs for sale, but I am not allowed to help my fellow forum members by offering it to them for a nice price via my signature, sorry

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