windowtinter Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 hell yeah you thinks its fast now shit start modding it. if it is completly stock start looking around im sure there are some free mods you could do that will give ya a lil more pep in that heavy beast. nothing like launching a AWD car @4500+rpm and leavin like a rocket! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volvowith18psi Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 Upgrade your piping clamps like one of the other posters said. I also had this problem when I ran new FMIC untill I bought some quality clamps and had the pipes angled correctly. A slight bit of oil in the intercooler piping isnt anything to really worry about. Anything more then a drop, def. check the seals/check for white smoke on boost. Yea, def. watch for those boost spikes. No forged interals = bent rod. And, if you have a MAF equiped vechile, most of the time the car expects you to re-ceric a certian ammount of air that was measured before boost, if it doesnt see this, will cause cause a rich spike. Dumping into the atmosphere(BOV) isnt always the correct option, just because it sounds cool... Just some food for thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 hell yeah you thinks its fast now shit start modding it. if it is completly stock start looking around im sure there are some free mods you could do that will give ya a lil more pep in that heavy beast. nothing like launching a AWD car @4500+rpm and leavin like a rocket! I have been close to hitting the buy now button a few times! But I am building a 51 Fleetline foe a couple years and need to get it where I want it first... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vettedude102 Posted April 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 The guy before me put new pistons in it just recently so its all brand new. The guy before him put on a new greddy turbo. The ebay one was shot. So that could be the reason the oil is in there. After I wiped it out it hasn't had anymore oil in it. Also the intake piping hasn't popped off since that hose was put on. It was getting probably 20ish plus lbs when that hose was off. So I guess it just couldn't handle the pressure. I am planning on getting either all new piping and only needing to use a couple of couplers and not as many as it has now. Also hopefully some buddies are going to bead roll the ends of those til I get the new piping 2 polk audio 4x6'skenwood head-unit 220 amp Mechman alt1979 Corvette 2003 corvette z06 alpine radio and the bose system that came stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachsb3 Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 lol i hope trolling Pretty sure it was a serious question. No need to be condescending. Does that car have a MAF sensor? bov's are typically like the capacitor in the car audio world. Pointless in most situations and can make your car run rich. who buys a modified car they know nothing about. And it needs a bov, all turbo cars do. dont give out information if you dont know what your talking about. \Are you kidding me? Not all turbos need them. A diverter valve is more efficient than a bov. Ricers just like the bov because of the psssssh sound. same thing, if its tuned for it it doesnt matter /\ facepalm at this guy.. ( yes it CAN be done )... bov create boost spikes and everyone knows boost spikes are BAD......and you dont need a bov..... the internal wastegate can wok perfectly fine and its adjustable up to a certain point. <--if used on a stock turbo duh lol... then you either get the wastegate actuator crushed to allow more boost ( which isnt the right way of doing it) or you could buy a manual boost controller or if you use a stand alone computer to run the engines a/f ratio, timing, etc. it should have a boost controller built in..... oh and airborne i wanna see pics of said boosted car running twin turbo's.... WITH your name and date on a paper so we know its legit.... not to be a dick.... op if you have oil anywhere in the intake (cold side) or exhaust (hot side) of the turbo you have a leaky turbo....its burning oil and needs to be rebuilt. also its a good idea to let the car run for like 5 to 10 minutes after driving to let the turbo cool down. you can buy a turbo timer specifically for this that way you can just take your key with you and the car will shut down after perdetermined time has been reached. i can tell you alot about turbo management but also i have alot to learn..... also op while you have the piping from the turbo opened up and off the cold side...check for shaft play... grab the impeller blade and try to wiggle it side to side in and out.....sure fire way to tell if its a healthy turbo or not lol. pm me if you have any questions -jarrid oh n ZACH.... you obviously know nothing about forced induction with a comment like that.....leave the turbo talk to people that know a lil more about the subject instead of trolling......op wanted help and you came back with nothing to add. lol at thinking they create boost spikes, you must not know what they do. do you have a catch can? if you dont could just be blow by from the motor, if the turbo was leaking that much oil youd know. 95leg, you have alot to learn. do you have a turbo car? o wait you dont. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachsb3 Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 after you get the pipes bead rolled, and t bolt clamps. spray some hairspray on the coupler when your puttin it together itll help hold it when it drys. should never blow off then, or you need wiggins clamps. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricM9104 Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 Does your hotpipes/coldpipes have little flares at the end of each pipe? Without those, regardless if you have multimillion dollar titanium clamps, you'll still blow couplers lol 2015 Honda Civic LX 4dr | 24k miles Stock H/U and mids/highs Power Acoustik GW3-12" D2 Sub HiFonics BXX1200.1D @ 1ohm Random 2.5^3' dual ported box NVX LOC Stinger wiring throughout 1977 Chevy SWB Cammed 350 Dual exhaust Cheap Wish stereo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vettedude102 Posted April 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 Does your hotpipes/coldpipes have little flares at the end of each pipe? Without those, regardless if you have multimillion dollar titanium clamps, you'll still blow couplers lol No they don't. I've been giving it hell all night, and it hasn't popped off yet. 2 polk audio 4x6'skenwood head-unit 220 amp Mechman alt1979 Corvette 2003 corvette z06 alpine radio and the bose system that came stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S15_Silvia Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 So would it be weird if I asked for pics/vids of the car now that it isn't as problematic? 2016 Subaru BRZ | Sony XAV-AX100 | Rockford Fosgate DSM 4080 & DSM 40ix | On 6/6/2012 at 6:32 PM, 'LZTYBRN' said: 3. Don't put speakers outside the car unless you are the ice cream man. My feedback thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Katt Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 So would it be weird if I asked for pics/vids of the car now that it isn't as problematic? That and i'd love to see Airborne's Vr4. So 2nd in for pics, lol. *06 330i - Sundern x12 - saz-3500* *91 Foxbody V1 S-Trim Notch* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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