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I'm picking up a 2004 CRF250R on Saturday for $2000. 23 hours on engine rebuild, needs a valve replaced, otherwise stock. I'll be competing at my local track semi-regularly this summer, hopefully once a week plus about 10 hours a week of practice if work allows. I'm 17, new to racing, and making the switch back to bikes from my YFZ450. When I last rode a bike, it was my friend's KTM SX125 last season and I was a little rusty but fairly quick. Just so you have a little background.

I'm wondering where is the best place to put money into the bike to get it ready for my first real competitive season. I was thinking intake, exhaust, and jetting to free up what power I can without getting too carried away. Tell me what you guys think.

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Motors need three things to run. Fuel, spark, and compression. Check those one by one. If you spray starter fluid will it fire for a bit? That rules out compression and spark. If the bike has been sitting for a while a new spark plug and carb flush are probably in order.

So your saying the clutch doesn't grab at all? It could be incredibly worn. Or it could be stuck in the open position if it sat for a while.

Feel free to ask me questions. Im not familiar with this particular bike but motors are where all my knowledge is so I can help you get it going.

Also, why did you buy the bike if all this stuff didn't work?

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Won't start will be a valve issue, those bikes are notorious for it. The stock valves are TERRIBLE.

Clutch would either be plates/steels COMPLETELY shot, OR if it has set a while the plates could be stuck together, try pulling it off, looking at them, and if they look decent soak them in oil for a few hours then reinstall.

To make them competitive you REALLY don't need any more power. Get some suspension work first thing, that will help you get the most out of what it already has. After that a pipe/filter/jetting will wake it up some, but the stock exhausts really aren't that restrictive. If you'll be racing/riding in the woods a good steering stabilizer is worth it's weight in gold.

-Zach-

2010 Toyota Tundra
Full Hybrid Audio SQ

7" BDS on 37's

2000 Ford Expedition

160+ dB Green Turd -SOLD- :(

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Won't start will be a valve issue, those bikes are notorious for it. The stock valves are TERRIBLE.

Clutch would either be plates/steels COMPLETELY shot, OR if it has set a while the plates could be stuck together, try pulling it off, looking at them, and if they look decent soak them in oil for a few hours then reinstall.

To make them competitive you REALLY don't need any more power. Get some suspension work first thing, that will help you get the most out of what it already has. After that a pipe/filter/jetting will wake it up some, but the stock exhausts really aren't that restrictive. If you'll be racing/riding in the woods a good steering stabilizer is worth it's weight in gold.

I figured it would be a valve problem. I'm definitely going with a Kibblewhite valve kit when I have time to work on it. Heard nothing but good about them. I'm gone all of this week so I won't get anything done at home but I'll try what you said with the clutch next week and get back to you regarding if it works or not.

What steering stabilizers and suspension would you suggest I look at?

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GPR/Scotts (Ohlins) are the main ones you see used.

Kibblewhite makes solid valvetrain components, as does CV4 (Xceldyne).

Pull the clutch and let it soak, worse case scenario you wasted 30 minutes of your time. Easiest way to do clutch work (don't have to drain the oil) is to lay the bike completely on it's side, them remove the brake pedal, pull the cover, there you are. Make sure your gas is off though.

-Zach-

2010 Toyota Tundra
Full Hybrid Audio SQ

7" BDS on 37's

2000 Ford Expedition

160+ dB Green Turd -SOLD- :(

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The main thing to get faster and have better control on a bike it to take an hour or 2 and set the handlebars, clutch and brake levers, shifter, and rear brake to how you like it. Works for everyone. I'm as comfortable on my bike as i am in my bed. I could ride all day long and not be super sore.

1999 GMC Yukon, 6 PSI platform 5 18's, 4th order bandpass by BHE, Taramps,

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Get it running yet?

2003 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT (Yea its got a Hemi)Alpine CDA-105KnuKonceptz 0ga CCA

Big 3 with Yellow Top

15" SoundQubed HDC3DC Audio 1.2K (Bass)Pioneer 6x9's (Front)Pioneer 6.5's (Rear)Kicker 3.5's (Dash)Sony amp on the highs. (Hey it was free)

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Just got home from a week of volunteering in Minot and I'm pretty wiped so I didn't really feel like working on the bike this evening. I have all of tomorrow to start on it so I think I'll try pulling the clutch and soaking the plates to see if it makes a difference.

On a different note, is it worth investing in new levers, shifter and brake pedal? The front brake lever is already quite bent so I'll be replacing that for sure, and I'm wondering if it's worth doing all four controls while I'm at it.

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