CleanSierra Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 I'm sure that this topic has been posted before, but I'm curious about something. I've seen and heard a lot of guys when they do their + and - runs through their vehicles, they take the Negatives all the way from their battery. Isn't it easier to ground to the frame(plus a huge savings in wire for cost) like I've done here: Maybe it's not as easy for some guys since might not have a full size full frame truck like mine. Grounding directly to the frame(clean contact point) is a good idea right? Quote Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hollowstylez Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 Makes sense and looks good to me man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uhoh_45 Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 it is cheaper yes but not more efficient.... a run directly to battery is a direct route and doesnt have to go through all the parts that make up a vehicle to get back to battery Quote R.I.P! (Nov-29-2009) 92 explorer - 4 Atomic Apxx 15s duel .7s - 4rth order bandpass wall -4 powerbass XA-3000D's - 16 8volt batts wired to 16 volts - (9+/9-) runs 0gauge - 152.3 Db @ 29hz BUILD LOG current build 97 chevy lumina4 - 1 Atomic Apx 18 - 6 cube slot port trunk sealed off - 1 powerbass XA-3000D - 2 optima G31s in spare tire18 1 run 1/0 lumina build log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 it is cheaper yes but not more efficient.... a run directly to battery is a direct route and doesnt have to go through all the parts that make up a vehicle to get back to battery ^^This, you gain Db's if you run your ground to the neg on your battery. Quote On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uhoh_45 Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 (edited) watch this it will help a lot Thank you drew (noobtastic) for making this.... hell it should be stickied somewhere Edited April 10, 2012 by uhoh_45 Quote R.I.P! (Nov-29-2009) 92 explorer - 4 Atomic Apxx 15s duel .7s - 4rth order bandpass wall -4 powerbass XA-3000D's - 16 8volt batts wired to 16 volts - (9+/9-) runs 0gauge - 152.3 Db @ 29hz BUILD LOG current build 97 chevy lumina4 - 1 Atomic Apx 18 - 6 cube slot port trunk sealed off - 1 powerbass XA-3000D - 2 optima G31s in spare tire18 1 run 1/0 lumina build log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hollowstylez Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 Damn that vid is pretty interesting, I guess i need to plan to buy more wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted April 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 If the ground from the front battery and alternator are bolted to the SAME frame that I've made my new ground, isn't that the same thing? The frame of my truck seems like a great place for the ground that I've made. Quote Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrchevy87 Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 Almost all frames have some sort of resistance and copper is a much better conductor than steel I prefer to run seperate grounds. The frame ground is just in case he pulls more amps than his ground wire can handle before resistance goes up he's got the chassis ground to compensate Quote Jeep Wrangler TJ Hardtop Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noobtastic14 Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 (edited) HOLY SHITBALLS. That video is old and I didn't know anybody ever watched it. Thank you Uhoh_45 for the link and the compliment that just made my night. I don't have sound at work, but when I get back I will have to rewatch that video. -Drew **Watch it, Three years apparently makes quite the difference I got a kick out of hearing myself and especially seeing myself at the end. Whata joke. I may end up taking this video and reshooting it in the daytime with better audio and pinning it in the electrical section. Edited April 11, 2012 by Noobtastic14 Quote I am a United States Military Arts and Crafts Professional. Sand it off, Paint it on. uhoh_45 said: dont be a pussy P give the jeep to drew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noobtastic14 Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 Also, A framed car is much different than a unibody car. If you have a solid frame rail from the front to the back with both your engine bay grounds attached to it in the front and rear battery/amp grounds attached in the rear that will be as efficient as you can get without running a dedicated run. A unibody is horrible for conductivity and does not operate the same way a frame rail does. -Drew Quote I am a United States Military Arts and Crafts Professional. Sand it off, Paint it on. uhoh_45 said: dont be a pussy P give the jeep to drew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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