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Alright, I have a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 inline 6 I recently bought off craigslist that im re doing just for a "fun" vehicle. Im recently doing a stereo build on this thing that pretty basic, but my question is, what kind of enclosure should I build that will be loud, or heard from an outside standpoint?
- Aftermarket Head Unit
- 132 amp Alternator
- Big 3 upgrade
- 8 JL audio 4" 2 way speakers
- Dual 4 Channel amp for the 2 ways (one I found in my attic)
- HiFonics Brutus BX1205D amp
- 2-12" Alpine Type R (again found in my attic) In a prefab enclosure
- Extra Battery in the back, all 4ga Power Wire
Everything is pretty much "thrown together" and was found the cheapest way possible. I am pretty good with subwoofer enclosures when it comes to making them, so I dont think there will something that will be too difficult. My goal isn't to get these the loudest I can, but more to make them sound good and be HEARD outside. Does anyone have any experience when it comes to this? Like something from a ranger or any other UTV? Any help is appreciated!! Thanks!
I need some help as I am installing some stuff into my 2012 Mazda 6 i sport. I have a double din, and 2 amps. The issue is I had 2 renegade amps installed and only needed to run a true 4awg wire to a block and then to the 2 amps. well those were not cutting it so i went and got a MB quart 800.4 for my door speakers and a Rockford T1500dbCP amp going to a JL audio 13w7 sub. My big issue is my alternator puts out only 90 amps and i cant find a single place that will sell a HO alternator that is a drop fit into my mazda 6 and I didnt want to have to mod anything to get it to fit. Can I keep the same stock alternator if I did the Big 3, and got a spare battery for the trunk? I am only asking this because I would figure from what I have read that the Big 3 and battery would be the very very minimum Ill need to push both new amps i have now, specially because i seen people saying they should have a battery for an RF 1500bdCP only and i have that plus the MB Quart 800.4 and a double din HU.
I would ask about a cap but from what i have read that wont help much anyways because they that just puts even more of a drain on my alternator when I cant upgrade that anyway(dont really want to unless I have too and have no choice).
here is what I was thinking about buying to try but figured i would ask first and buy once.... http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_74888_XS-Power-XP750-CK.html and this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_86030_Belva-BBG3KT.html
Thanks for the help in advance, its much appreciated.
I've had this thought in the back of my mind for quite some time. After talking to a couple of buddies at work, they convinced me that it would be worth it and to go for it. As I have never dabbled in the car audio world much, I am not sure as to what would suit me best. My budget is around $500, and am trying to get the best thump and quality for my buck. I would be putting this in a 2005 Ford Taurus SEL sedan. Currently, I have the factory Bose speakers, and no sub. Here is what I'm looking at right now.
Pioneer Gm-D9601 2,400-Watt Class D Mono Amp
Pioneer 12-Inch 4000W TS-W3003D4 Subwoofers with Vented Box Enclosure
KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit
Some questions that I have are:
1. Will I be able to run this off of the stock alternator, and a single battery while running?
a. If so, about how long without having the car running.
2. Should I replace the Front and Rear speakers, or if just replacing the head unit be sufficient?
I am open to any recommendations, criticism, and advice.
Hello, I am new to the car audio as in really wanting it to sound good. I have a 2012 Mazda 6 with a JVC KW-V120BT Head unit, Renegade REN 1100s 4 channel amp, Renegade Ren 850s Amp, Single 12' Kicker Comp D122 Sub, kenwood KFC-C6895P 6x8's, and Power Acoustik EF-60C Component 6.5"s.
What I really want to know is what I sent my LPF and HPF to on my 4ch amp and what I'll set my LPF on my Mono amp powering a single 12" kicker sub. From what I have seen online because I didst want to have to ask this question was that every speaker will have a different setting per what car its in, but what i want to know is a good starting point that I can start with without messing anything up before hand.
Here is the specs of everything
Kicker 12" comp D122, FR=27-500Hz, Peak 600watts-RMS 300watts, Sensitivity 88.3db, Impedance 2Ohms, Voice Coil Dual.
Power Acoustik EF-60c, FR=65- 20,000HZ, RMS 125watts, Sensitivity 92Db, 4Ohm's, Passive crossover Included, 2way full range.
Kenwood KFC-C6895P, FR=63- 20,000Hz, RMS 90watts, Sensitivity 88db, 4Ohm's, 3 way design
Renegade Ren 1100s, Rear--HP is from 80hz-2k hz, LP is from 50hz-250hz, Bass EQ 12,6,0. Front-- has 80hz-2k hz.
Renegade Ren850s, Has Bass EQ 0db-12db, Sub Sonic 15hz-55hz, Low Pass 40hz-150hz, Input level 5v- .02v
I have the PA Components up front in the doors and the Kenwood 6x8's in the rear doors, and of course the Sub in a ported box in the trunk.
Any help would be greatly appreciated as I know I don't have a ton of money in my setup but of course want the best sound that I can atleast give myself. I will set the gains on them as that I can atleast do myself without help. also I know my head unit has a bunch of stuff built into it that I can do these setting on there, I just rather not do them on there as incase i lose power or someone messes with it and i lose everything saved. If anyone knows my HU and knows what it should be set that info would be helpful to. AGAIN Thanks for the help ahead of time...
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