Kyblack76 Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 Been reading your thread for nearly 2 hours. Crazy ideas and sick job. Well done. Keep up with the good work. Gonna keep an eye for updates. Yeah.. Wicks is "one of those" ..lol although, thats a shitty break. Means alot of work, and alot of missed time... Time repairing instead of improving.. blows for my man... SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 Been reading your thread for nearly 2 hours. Crazy ideas and sick job. Well done. Keep up with the good work. Gonna keep an eye for updates. Yeah.. Wicks is "one of those" ..lol although, thats a shitty break. Means alot of work, and alot of missed time... But Time repairing equals upgrading and improving.. congrats for my man... Fixed that for you buddy! If he has to repair it, might as well make it sexier!! RIGHT?!?!? Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hammer Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 Hey this is just a suggestion if you go to rebuild or replace that baffle on how to attach it. Im not sure how you did the joint there, and not sure at what angle the baffle mates with the bottom piece of the enclosure, BUT have you though about doing a dado on the bottom and haveing the baffle fit into it. More surface area for the glue to bond, and even on mdf/plywood butt joints are not as strong. Your build is top knotch man, I enjoy it alot and you seem to be great at figuring out problems, but figured I could share a thought. If you have an angle that is not too sharp, like 10* or even more like 25* where the baffle meets the bottom (I'm not sure I did not look back) You can make a jig for your tablesaw that would allow you to cut dado or rabbit joints at a shallow angle. Hit me up if you want help doing it. MY BUILD *****http://tinyurl.com/gmcbuild***** Vehicles 2005 GMC Canyon CB1000r - Currently where any future funds are going. (exhasut,bazzaz, ohlins shock, screen, etc.) crf250r - Used to be race bike..now I just trail ride..practice at the track on it. CH80 - Daily beater (when nice weather)best 150$ ever spent. 100+mpg Sold to: Skullz - pstone11 - Leo1103 - Volvo 63' - pavelpardo - imnew59585 Shower farts still piss me off.I think theyre pretty neat. When the water runs down your crack as you let one out... its like shitting in a crockpot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicks Posted July 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2013 After about a half hour of reading or so... DAMMMM manye!!! Install looks sweet!! Here in Denver would love a demo... Thanks Dude! Hell yeah, I'm always down to meet fellow bassheads in Denver. Although at the moment my entire trunk is gutted due to my recent discovery so I can't do any demos in the near future, but after I get things patched up lets talk. Jesus Wicks. Good carnage. Indeed Sir! I figured a 1.5" double baffle glued to the base-plate would be plenty, but obviously I greatly underestimated the viciousness of those XL's, especially on 5kW and in a relatively smaller box.... "Live and learn, live and learn...." I can't get mad about it, I just have to roll with the punches and adapt. Been reading your thread for nearly 2 hours. Crazy ideas and sick job. Well done. Keep up with the good work. Gonna keep an eye for updates. Thanks for checking out the build and the comment, much appreciated! Yeah.. Wicks is "one of those" ..lolalthough, thats a shitty break. Means alot of work, and alot of missed time... Time repairing instead of improving.. blows for my man... Friggin' THIS ^^^ One step forward and two steps back..... Been reading your thread for nearly 2 hours. Crazy ideas and sick job. Well done. Keep up with the good work. Gonna keep an eye for updates. Yeah.. Wicks is "one of those" ..lol although, thats a shitty break. Means alot of work, and alot of missed time... But Time repairing equals upgrading and improving.. congrats for my man... Fixed that for you buddy! If he has to repair it, might as well make it sexier!! RIGHT?!?!? LOL, I already had some sexy plans for the baffle and this delayed my progress quite a bit. So now I have to reinforce the baffle while still keeping everything the same dimensions as before.... You'll see why in future updates... Hey this is just a suggestion if you go to rebuild or replace that baffle on how to attach it. Im not sure how you did the joint there, and not sure at what angle the baffle mates with the bottom piece of the enclosure, BUT have you though about doing a dado on the bottom and haveing the baffle fit into it. More surface area for the glue to bond, and even on mdf/plywood butt joints are not as strong. Your build is top knotch man, I enjoy it alot and you seem to be great at figuring out problems, but figured I could share a thought. If you have an angle that is not too sharp, like 10* or even more like 25* where the baffle meets the bottom (I'm not sure I did not look back) You can make a jig for your tablesaw that would allow you to cut dado or rabbit joints at a shallow angle. Hit me up if you want help doing it. That's EXACTLY what I should have done (dado on the bottom plate)..... The baffle angle from the bottom is 67 degrees. You can bet that I'll never do a simple glue joint on an angled baffle again... Right now I'm just going to try and reinforce the joint as-is. Anything else more elaborate would basically require me to tear the entire box out of the trunk and start over since its built inside the trunk and all glued together. Taking the front baffle off would probably mean destroying the box. I put a LOT of time and effort into this box so I want to try and utilize it as much as possible. Thanks for the comments and suggestions, good stuff and always welcomed! This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted July 17, 2013 Report Share Posted July 17, 2013 Well then, in that case carry on! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicks Posted July 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2013 In case anybody's interested in the current mess that I have, here you go: Had to gut the trunk and peel my 54lb XL's out of this box which was no fun task at all.... In order to add some fiberglass reinforcement to the bottom edge of the box, I needed to remove some material so that the front of the baffle stays flat (you'll see why in later updates) Rather than use a chisel and hammer for hours and hours, I bought one of these neat little saws that I've been looking at for a while. Did a great job of digging in about 1/8" and removing a thin layer of MDF. What a mess... I also used the saw to dig under the baffle and remove some of the old glue in between the MDF pieces. Then I countersunk some pocket-holes so that I could screw the baffle down to the bottom plate. Based on some previous suggestions, I picked up some TB2 to try out instead of the TB3. I made sure the pocket-screws were long enough that they would go all the way through the bottom plate and secure the two pieces together well. Here you can see that they protrude through the bottom of the box about 1/4" or so. WELL........... Little did I realize, but these screws are TOUGH! Would a side-cutter/dikes be able to cut off the tips of the screws.........NOPE Would a hack saw cut through the screws...............................................NOPE Could I fit a grinder underneath the box and grind them off....................NOPE Could I remove the box so that I could get better access.......................NOPE Could my new reciprocating saw cut through the screws.......................NOPE Here was my innovation to try and grind down the screws (a side grinder with a large chop-saw blade attached to it (safety guard removed) DISCLAIMER....Do NOT try this at home This had the reach to get to the screws, but as soon as I fired up the grinder, the blade was slightly off-balanced and the whole tool damn near shook out of my hand. Back to the drawing board... Went back to Lowes (for the 2nd time that day) and found a 90 degree attachment for a Dremel which looked like it could squeeze in the small area. Finally we have success. The next task was to add a strip of fiberglass at the bottom of the box to add some rigidity. Here was my "first" attempt: While I waited for the resin to set up, why not rip off the gas tank on my R1 and check the air filter... Turns out I'm still a fiberglassing Noob because it didn't work out at all. I forgot to add some resin to the MDF before adding the cloth so I didn't get proper wetting and the fiberglass didn't adhere like I need it to. Plus the fact that my SMD Sunflash didn't set up well because it just happened to be mostly overcast which is rare in Colorado. Plus I couldn't get a good amount of direct sun to shine in the back seat area of my car... I even tried holding up my plexi window from my sub-box and reflecting some sunlight into the rear-seat area......nope, didn't work either. Sooooo I ended up ripping out the fiberglass attempt and need to try again, probly with a time based resin and not UV based. I'll save the Sunflash for my trunk area where I can get better sunlight access. Speaking of new tools... I used a birthday gift card to get me an AC/DC clamp meter finally. Should be handy to analyze some electrical currents around the car and make sure everything is working like I think it is. Have a good building weekend and I hope that you guys are having better luck then I! Cheers This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdorre Posted July 18, 2013 Report Share Posted July 18, 2013 Ur ballsy.. doing that in an M3 trunk lol On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicks Posted July 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2013 Ur ballsy.. doing that in an M3 trunk lol Yep, I was super hesitant at first. As things progressed, I got a bit more brave. I have no plans of getting rid of the car and besides, returning it to stock would be a nightmare even if I haven't done too many modifications.............yet. I'm sure the BMW purists would hate me, but I see no reason why the performance can't be included with some great audio as well. This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsmigs619 Posted July 18, 2013 Report Share Posted July 18, 2013 more pics of that sexy r1? lol you are amazing at what you do man WTF? Hybrid parking? Really? What the hell is going on with these smug bastards?! I want gas guzzler parking right up front so i dont have to circle the parking lot 40 times and ruin the enviroment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted July 18, 2013 Report Share Posted July 18, 2013 So what do you need to do then? Wet down the MDF, then put the matt or cloth on and wet it down some more? why didn't it stick? Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.