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How much port should this 4th order have?


BEEMDUB

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Posted

so how do I know how much port to add? Like do I take the dimensions of the ported section and tune it like I would a regular ported box in the torres calculator?

Posted

pretty much. but don't tune as low.

the more port area (usually) the better. so shoot for 15+ inches per cube.

tune higher, 47+

Just say no to Ground Pounder Customs.

More box builds

some cars do over 170db with one sub, so clearly my two 12"s can do that in my car, with my knowledge too! look out bitches!

I'm with captain stupid.

Posted

pretty much. but don't tune as low.

the more port area (usually) the better. so shoot for 15+ inches per cube.

tune higher, 47+

Alright cool I'm thinkin right now I might make the port 8W x 8H x 12L including the 3/4 of the mdf so technically 6.5W x 6.5 H so that gives me about 42 sq in of port if my calculations in my head are right lol so thats not too bad right? Or is that too little port?

Posted

make the port shorter. if you tune that low, you're gonna need one hell of an impressive mid stage to compensate for the roll off

Here is a pic of what your baffle should look like:9f7ad601.jpg

I couldnt find a picture of a removable port but I think you will get the idea. :D

Hows this look guys I'm sure you can figure it out but blue = fixed baffle, Green = the two fixed side pieces that will be flush with the removeable port and the red is of course the removeable port that I resized to 8W X 8H X 12D

baffle-portcolorcode2.jpg

baffle-portcolorcode.jpg

baffle-portcolorcodedimensions.jpg

That will definetely get the point across.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
Posted

make the port shorter. if you tune that low, you're gonna need one hell of an impressive mid stage to compensate for the roll off

Here is a pic of what your baffle should look like:9f7ad601.jpg

I couldnt find a picture of a removable port but I think you will get the idea. :D

Hows this look guys I'm sure you can figure it out but blue = fixed baffle, Green = the two fixed side pieces that will be flush with the removeable port and the red is of course the removeable port that I resized to 8W X 8H X 12D

baffle-portcolorcode2.jpg

baffle-portcolorcode.jpg

baffle-portcolorcodedimensions.jpg

That will definetely get the point across.

What u mean

Posted

make the port shorter. if you tune that low, you're gonna need one hell of an impressive mid stage to compensate for the roll off

Here is a pic of what your baffle should look like:9f7ad601.jpg

I couldnt find a picture of a removable port but I think you will get the idea. :D

Hows this look guys I'm sure you can figure it out but blue = fixed baffle, Green = the two fixed side pieces that will be flush with the removeable port and the red is of course the removeable port that I resized to 8W X 8H X 12D

baffle-portcolorcode2.jpg

baffle-portcolorcode.jpg

baffle-portcolorcodedimensions.jpg

That will definetely get the point across.

What u mean

Was talking about how earlier in the topic, people where having a hard time explaining the removable port, that model set would make the point get a cross a lot easier.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
Posted

make the port shorter. if you tune that low, you're gonna need one hell of an impressive mid stage to compensate for the roll off

Here is a pic of what your baffle should look like:9f7ad601.jpg

I couldnt find a picture of a removable port but I think you will get the idea. :D

Hows this look guys I'm sure you can figure it out but blue = fixed baffle, Green = the two fixed side pieces that will be flush with the removeable port and the red is of course the removeable port that I resized to 8W X 8H X 12D

baffle-portcolorcode2.jpg

baffle-portcolorcode.jpg

baffle-portcolorcodedimensions.jpg

That will definetely get the point across.

What u mean

Was talking about how earlier in the topic, people where having a hard time explaining the removable port, that model set would make the point get a cross a lot easier.

ahh..my bad its been a long day lol

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