john253a Posted May 16, 2012 Report Posted May 16, 2012 You could do 2 aeros through the rear shelf where the rear suround should be
BEEMDUB Posted May 17, 2012 Author Report Posted May 17, 2012 so how do I know how much port to add? Like do I take the dimensions of the ported section and tune it like I would a regular ported box in the torres calculator?
412 CVX Posted May 17, 2012 Report Posted May 17, 2012 pretty much. but don't tune as low. the more port area (usually) the better. so shoot for 15+ inches per cube. tune higher, 47+ Just say no to Ground Pounder Customs. My temp system build log More box buildssome cars do over 170db with one sub, so clearly my two 12"s can do that in my car, with my knowledge too! look out bitches! I'm with captain stupid.
BEEMDUB Posted May 17, 2012 Author Report Posted May 17, 2012 pretty much. but don't tune as low. the more port area (usually) the better. so shoot for 15+ inches per cube. tune higher, 47+ Alright cool I'm thinkin right now I might make the port 8W x 8H x 12L including the 3/4 of the mdf so technically 6.5W x 6.5 H so that gives me about 42 sq in of port if my calculations in my head are right lol so thats not too bad right? Or is that too little port?
RooTxBeeR Posted May 17, 2012 Report Posted May 17, 2012 make the port shorter. if you tune that low, you're gonna need one hell of an impressive mid stage to compensate for the roll off Here is a pic of what your baffle should look like: I couldnt find a picture of a removable port but I think you will get the idea. Hows this look guys I'm sure you can figure it out but blue = fixed baffle, Green = the two fixed side pieces that will be flush with the removeable port and the red is of course the removeable port that I resized to 8W X 8H X 12D That will definetely get the point across. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
BEEMDUB Posted May 18, 2012 Author Report Posted May 18, 2012 make the port shorter. if you tune that low, you're gonna need one hell of an impressive mid stage to compensate for the roll off Here is a pic of what your baffle should look like: I couldnt find a picture of a removable port but I think you will get the idea. Hows this look guys I'm sure you can figure it out but blue = fixed baffle, Green = the two fixed side pieces that will be flush with the removeable port and the red is of course the removeable port that I resized to 8W X 8H X 12D That will definetely get the point across. What u mean
Hugh G. Rection Posted May 18, 2012 Report Posted May 18, 2012 i would try to help, but my main understanding of 4th orders is in dealing with walls.... Owner of BigAss Ports
RooTxBeeR Posted May 18, 2012 Report Posted May 18, 2012 make the port shorter. if you tune that low, you're gonna need one hell of an impressive mid stage to compensate for the roll off Here is a pic of what your baffle should look like: I couldnt find a picture of a removable port but I think you will get the idea. Hows this look guys I'm sure you can figure it out but blue = fixed baffle, Green = the two fixed side pieces that will be flush with the removeable port and the red is of course the removeable port that I resized to 8W X 8H X 12D That will definetely get the point across. What u mean Was talking about how earlier in the topic, people where having a hard time explaining the removable port, that model set would make the point get a cross a lot easier. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
BEEMDUB Posted May 18, 2012 Author Report Posted May 18, 2012 make the port shorter. if you tune that low, you're gonna need one hell of an impressive mid stage to compensate for the roll off Here is a pic of what your baffle should look like: I couldnt find a picture of a removable port but I think you will get the idea. Hows this look guys I'm sure you can figure it out but blue = fixed baffle, Green = the two fixed side pieces that will be flush with the removeable port and the red is of course the removeable port that I resized to 8W X 8H X 12D That will definetely get the point across. What u mean Was talking about how earlier in the topic, people where having a hard time explaining the removable port, that model set would make the point get a cross a lot easier. ahh..my bad its been a long day lol
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