OrionStang Posted March 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 Aluminum block, it's hard to hurt it so bad it can't be repaired. A welder and a grinder can do magic on them, as I've fixed blocks where 1/8 of the block vaporized, and went back into service making 10,000hp.(fuel motor) That appears to be a standard ring pack, and not a durable material for your goals. The piston is guaranteed off the shelf, no anodized lands, no coated skirts, and it'll leave power on the table by not working with your valve hieghts (they make them safe piston to valve wise). Piston is probably a poorer casting, as Probe has India as their supplier. Also, a p-bearing means non-coated, which will wear MUCH faster. I'm not trying to convince you to let me build it, as we've got 40some motors sitting in the floor waiting to be done, and 100 more to do very soon. (We can work in timelines though). I'd just hate to see it be done anyway other than the best, as it could last you a long time done right, or be in this same spot in a year or two. And warranties in this business are near worthless, somebody can always put the blame on you. We don't even give them-if your shit breaks, we take care of it. That's why we're the top shop in our field. If you find somebody local, I'll be glad to do what I can to help the build, engineering wise. I hope it's something simple damage wise though, like a squirrel in the vaporizer-homogenetor. PM coming. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CortezDTV Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 What happened to the block? SCSB Santa Cruz Speaker Box Build logs: Daily Driver Lemon Marquis 2 american bass 750.1s 350.4 on 14 focal 6.5s sq 945 on 4 hertz tweeters Mystery subs http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 The Mustang 'dubbed' Shirley the project from bullet holes to badass http://www.stevemead...cond-skin-time/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldsoundguy Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 I would have to agree. That is why I built the engine in my Chevelle myself. I could of purchased a crate motor but you never know if it has been put together correctly of used the right parts. With my engine I put in the crank, pistons, rings, bearings etc. I know that my pistons have been pin fit, I set the ring gap, I know what the bearing clearance are, I checked piston to valve clearance, I checked end play of the crank, I torqued everything down, I checked push rod length and rocker geometry. I know that engine inside and out. That gives me assurance when I spin my engine up to 7000 RPM that it has been built to handle it. Plus I learned a lot doing it. 80prs Arc Audio Xdi 1200.6 (using active crossovers) Freaking awesome amplifier Incriminator IA 10.1 Focal PS 130v 5.25 (doors) 4" Faital pro Neo (kick panels) 3" Faital pro Neo and focal tweets( dash) DC Audio level 3 12" custom box designed by joex built by me AGM front, XS 750SE batteries rear DC 180 alt 99 Toyota Tacoma extra cab http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/179476-my-small-build-turned-into-the-ongoing-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted April 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 What happened to the block? Late response LOL, but I just found out the "supposed" issue with the car. The block should be just fine to be reused. Cylinders and journals will be worked/machined before putting in the new crank and pistons. Still undecided on what stuff to use, I have a few phone calls still to make. L and R Engines is looking pretty good right now. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted April 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2014 Well, the sound part of this build is done. Gonna focus on building a fast car. I may add a couple 8" subs to the Hertz comps later on, but for now here is the plan. Stage 1: Moser axles DSS aluminum one-piece drive shaft BBK 300lph fuel pump Sub-frame connectors Stage 2: Engine block machine work Heads ported and polished Pistons, rods, and crank by L&R Engines (compression ratio and stroked, or not, TBD) Headers Mild cams Stage 3: Lightweight bumper support Lightweight radiator support Lightweight K-member Stage 4: Carbon fiber hood, deck, etc..DROP WEIGHT, including the driver LOL. Note: Full coilover conversion will fall into place there somewhere. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amart88 Posted April 6, 2014 Report Share Posted April 6, 2014 A lot of time and $$$$$$ right there. Should be hella nice when it's done. My 2005 s10 blazer build. 4 zcon 18's walled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omg_spoon Posted April 6, 2014 Report Share Posted April 6, 2014 you going going to get a cage? 98 Mustang GTSinger 3202 12" Incriminator Death Penalties1 SAZ-2500dv22 D3100,1 D34002 Crescendo CZ-65SAX-100.2Door panels by Diablo Kustomz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted April 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2014 A lot of time and $$$$$$ right there. Should be hella nice when it's done. Thats why i'm doing it a little at a time. Actually considering buying another car so I can "park" the Stang at the shop. you going going to get a cage? Not unless it becomes a requirement. I don't plan on crashing. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted April 6, 2014 Report Share Posted April 6, 2014 i would do stage 2 first.. as long as you dont put slicks, the rear end should hold.. im running a 454 with brute torque on a stock 10 bolt rear end and have yet to fail.. and trust me when i say i havent been easy on the truck. my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted April 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2014 Stage 1 and 2 will probably overlap a bit, as the builder and installer are both very booked up. I'll just be buying parts as I can afford to, and get the engine torn down as soon as they can get to it. (Cheaper if I let them do it when they can, I'm in no hurry) Just ordered the fuel pump and driveshaft, hopefully I can tackle them myself. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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