SnowDrifter Posted July 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 ^^Well I could always urinate in the headlight housing. That should make it yellow I started box bracing. Kind of tough to do because of that middle port I have - makes so I can't do a top to bottom brace or side to side. Depth of the subs and position of ports make it so I can't go front to back either. Had a bit of baffle flex even with 3 layers. I was NOT expecting that What I ended up doing for bracing on the baffle and bottom. Wondering if this is enough or if I should do more.... Maybe angle iron screwed into the wood brace and baffle of the box to give it rigidity? Due to the top port the strip of wood is only about 2" thick I also have some 45 degree 5x5 wood blocks I'm thinking of throwing in. Should give a nice boost in strength to the seams of the box while displacing minimal airspace Hmmm there was one more thing.... Oh yeah! Thanks to whoever said to use caulking for aeroports. Stuff works great. More rigid than duct tape, holds pretty well. But if I grab and give it a firm tug it comes apart ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Yeah triangles should work well, I did a couple in my box. Jeez, never would have though a triple baffle would show flex like that. I can't find where you built the box, but is that a wood seam right there? "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted July 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Yeah it's where the baffle connects to the rest of the box High stress point because it's where the subs are - fairly heavy cones being thrown around and it's a loading point on the box You can kind of see it here. About 13 seconds in. The box "hops" a bit but I never noticed the baffle moving until I got it on video. I thought it was just hopping around with the rest of the box hehe ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Ah yeah you're right. I couldn't really tell until about 0:22-25, can really see it there. I think you have to get support in the middle of the baffle to really stop that, like vertical support. Unfortunately that might mean you have to pull one of the subs to get something in there. Wait, is it even possible with your ports? I was thinking a metal bar or wooden dowel. Triangles may help, but IMO not really gonna solve it. I could definitely be wrong though, they might be your saving grace. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted July 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 I could get it in there without pulling subs. I pulled all the ports right now, just working through the holes Vertical support is impossible without removing the top port. But then I'm lacking on port area. ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Gotcha. What if you did from each bottom corner of the box in the middle to the top middle? Like a "/\" in the middle of the box. Would you clear the ports then? "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omg_spoon Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 i was thinking angle iron too, or some flat bar too. 98 Mustang GTSinger 3202 12" Incriminator Death Penalties1 SAZ-2500dv22 D3100,1 D34002 Crescendo CZ-65SAX-100.2Door panels by Diablo Kustomz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted July 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 So.... I decided I'm going to use angle iron. Two of them together down the middle of a panel should give me a lot of strength. I have a bunch of 1/4" lag screws and polyurethane glue for securing the stuff, but this will be my first time working with angle iron. So if anyone has tips for working with the stuff I'm all ears. Will be cutting it with a circular saw, metal cutoff wheel, freehand. Then there's drilling the holes and ultimately gluing/screwing them to the box ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacomaguy1 Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 I used it on an old box....had someone cut it for me, but just drilled holes in it and bolted it to the inside of the box. No glue worked good Team Flex Issues Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 Damn man, yea 3 baffles and still issues, that's just nuts to me. Tuned in for the fix, looks like you got some good ideas 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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