Freshman6969 Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 If you blow the stock alt on 1000 watts, there has to be/you are doing something else wrong IMHO I am running 3500 watts on the stock alternator/battery right now... At .5 ohm and I don't have any issues BUT I also keep close tabs on my voltage and don't let it drop below 13v which depending on the song can be only 1/3 the way up or full bore. Edit: And I have an 80a alternator too your one risky sum a bitch lol, but again, 1k on a stock alt...shouldent happen...unless your doing something wrong like stated, welp least you get a learning experiance, although its a costly one, why not get a h/o alt while your at it, thatd be my first thing lol, but thats me its the alt, period lol, i think those amps are current hogs, but i could be wrong, how on 1k you fried you alt idk lol He hasn't done the big 3, which would likely be the culprit because of all the extra resistance due to the dinky factory charge lead/grounds. Usually that just smokes the cable, though, I could be wrong. da fuck....i only skimmed through the rest of your posts, and they dont seem to be to informative...so ill just blast you for this one ive never seen anything FRY because of NOT having the big 3, yes its the first step into "helping" your charging system, but you dont NEED IT in order to NOT fry anything, i dont have it, yet somehow im managing to clamp 1144watts out of my 3.5k @ 2ohms rising to 5.5ohms, mind you...i ran that same amp, on a STOCK alt in my yeep, AT .5OHMS! and dident fry shit, yes youll see more stability with the big 3, but it is in no way OMFG I NEED THIS SHIT OR ELSE MY SHITS GUNNA BLOW THE FUCK UP /end rant sorry if im a bit harsh but i HATE when people give misleading information.....also its 1:30am, and im cranky Legal TL scores145.6 on the dash sealed up in the low 40hz area with the port out145.5 on the dash sealed up @30hz with the port inless then 1k clamped on a 3.5k! Why would you EVER WANT flex?huh?...flex is what can make the lows lower and more air being pushed correct? My FeedbackJeep-BuildlogPT LOSER buildlog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamace24 Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 Funny you just beat me to that comment. 1st Setup(SOLD):2007 GMC YukonPioneer Avic F90bt Audiocontrol Epicenter2 Audioque SDC2.5 15 subs8.7 cubes at 37hz build DONEAudioque 1200d (Audioque 1200d Sold, similar performance to my ap1500)Diamond Audio Hex 6.5 Mids n TweetsCerwin Vega Exl 400 4 channel Bridged(also have MTX 4004 not being used)1 Run of power Knu Fleks 4 Gauge2 Cheap stock Battery setup2nd Setup (SOLD):2007 GMC YukonPioneer Avic F90bt Audiocontrol Epicenter2 15 Kicker cvx (maybe two SA 15 in future)7 cubes net tuned at 34hzAlphasonik Old school 1600rms (ap 1500d sold GREAT Budget amp)JBL 6.5 Power Series Components, Infinity Kappa 6.5 3 ways, and 2 Kicker KS Tweets (LOUD)Cerwin vega exl4001 run knu Fleks OFC 0 gaugeBig 3 done1 Odyssey 1500, 1 optima yellow top d31 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamace24 Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 My advice is to start completely over when you figure out your car part. The big 3 is just a plus but something else was at work here. 1st Setup(SOLD):2007 GMC YukonPioneer Avic F90bt Audiocontrol Epicenter2 Audioque SDC2.5 15 subs8.7 cubes at 37hz build DONEAudioque 1200d (Audioque 1200d Sold, similar performance to my ap1500)Diamond Audio Hex 6.5 Mids n TweetsCerwin Vega Exl 400 4 channel Bridged(also have MTX 4004 not being used)1 Run of power Knu Fleks 4 Gauge2 Cheap stock Battery setup2nd Setup (SOLD):2007 GMC YukonPioneer Avic F90bt Audiocontrol Epicenter2 15 Kicker cvx (maybe two SA 15 in future)7 cubes net tuned at 34hzAlphasonik Old school 1600rms (ap 1500d sold GREAT Budget amp)JBL 6.5 Power Series Components, Infinity Kappa 6.5 3 ways, and 2 Kicker KS Tweets (LOUD)Cerwin vega exl4001 run knu Fleks OFC 0 gaugeBig 3 done1 Odyssey 1500, 1 optima yellow top d31 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freshman6969 Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 My advice is to start completely over when you figure out your car part. The big 3 is just a plus but something else was at work here. in a sense you should, i dont mean pulling everything out, but double and triple check everything, disconnect the amps, move your grounds(USE BOLTS!), do the big 3(if your afraid of this happening again, fuse the line going to the battery, i personally dont, but do each there own) def get your batt tested(it could have shorted...maybe...) if you can, bench test your amp, let it play for a good hour or so to see if you have anyproblems Legal TL scores145.6 on the dash sealed up in the low 40hz area with the port out145.5 on the dash sealed up @30hz with the port inless then 1k clamped on a 3.5k! Why would you EVER WANT flex?huh?...flex is what can make the lows lower and more air being pushed correct? My FeedbackJeep-BuildlogPT LOSER buildlog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Lam Posted June 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 i had no intention of choosing one over the other(such as big three to new battery or any such decisions) i am doing a full electrical upgrade so any arguments about doing the big three upgrade or not should be nullified NOW. -end rant- but as i stated before i checked the grounds, their stable. battery has been CORRECTLY test, is still good. most of the points in these last few posts have been routed out earlier, leaving only the alternator. i am currently doing the big three so as soon as i found out how to even get the alternator out, ill attempt an alternator bench test. a test at my local advanced, and heaven forbid those idiots don't know how to properly test a STOCK alternator, ill be sure to do research on how to test it as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baydestrian Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 RPMs at 2k and still dimming? Holy crap 2015 Mazda 6 JVF Customz 4.0 Proto 15>Wolfram W4500 @ .5ohm 2 Sundown Neo 6.5 + 2 CT Meso Tweeters (Front) x Kicker KS6.5 (Rear)>JL Audio VX400/4i NSB-AMG35 (front) / 40ah Lithium Headway (Rear) built by Erni Audio & Electrical Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Lam Posted June 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 RPMs at 2k and still dimming? Holy crap still surprises me too. on the hard notes it dropped me rpms a couple hundred too, so i had to mash the gas a little more generously to keep it up there. i've heard so many places that 1k rms would do fine on stock electrical. and many people say no lights dimming on 1k. so this would lead me to believe that it's the amp. like everyone said before, the Alpine MRP-M1000 is a power hog, and even one kid said it fried his alternator too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Lam Posted June 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 think i might have found one of the main culprits in the death of my alternator(if it is that). the in line fuse between my battery and amp is a 200amp fuse. the suggested fuse size is a 100amp fuse. thus leading to a bigger power draw than necessary. done with the big three, ordered a pair of 100amp fuses and just waiting to install the new alternator, which might have to wait another week due to family vacation(which kind of blows due to the fact of my car being on my mind the entire time). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-dubs89 Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 think i might have found one of the main culprits in the death of my alternator(if it is that). the in line fuse between my battery and amp is a 200amp fuse. the suggested fuse size is a 100amp fuse. thus leading to a bigger power draw than necessary. done with the big three, ordered a pair of 100amp fuses and just waiting to install the new alternator, which might have to wait another week due to family vacation(which kind of blows due to the fact of my car being on my mind the entire time). impossible that your fuse is the reason why , the fuse is meant to prevent a fire should you have a direct short , the only problem with too big of a fuse is not being protected against short . your fuse is fine . back in the day my cousin went through a couple alternators on a 94 bonneville running some rf series 1 at 2 ohms , forget which amp he ran but it was rockford as well . i have been lucky in my car audio systems as far as not having an alternator fail , but to me that is a good possibility when you are runnign high power car audio even if it is installed correct . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8ight Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 If you blow the stock alt on 1000 watts, there has to be/you are doing something else wrong IMHO I am running 3500 watts on the stock alternator/battery right now... At .5 ohm and I don't have any issues BUT I also keep close tabs on my voltage and don't let it drop below 13v which depending on the song can be only 1/3 the way up or full bore. Edit: And I have an 80a alternator too your one risky sum a bitch lol, but again, 1k on a stock alt...shouldent happen...unless your doing something wrong like stated, welp least you get a learning experiance, although its a costly one, why not get a h/o alt while your at it, thatd be my first thing lol, but thats me its the alt, period lol, i think those amps are current hogs, but i could be wrong, how on 1k you fried you alt idk lol He hasn't done the big 3, which would likely be the culprit because of all the extra resistance due to the dinky factory charge lead/grounds. Usually that just smokes the cable, though, I could be wrong. da fuck....i only skimmed through the rest of your posts, and they dont seem to be to informative...so ill just blast you for this one ive never seen anything FRY because of NOT having the big 3, yes its the first step into "helping" your charging system, but you dont NEED IT in order to NOT fry anything, i dont have it, yet somehow im managing to clamp 1144watts out of my 3.5k @ 2ohms rising to 5.5ohms, mind you...i ran that same amp, on a STOCK alt in my yeep, AT .5OHMS! and dident fry shit, yes youll see more stability with the big 3, but it is in no way OMFG I NEED THIS SHIT OR ELSE MY SHITS GUNNA BLOW THE FUCK UP /end rant sorry if im a bit harsh but i HATE when people give misleading information.....also its 1:30am, and im cranky How is suggesting that nothing bad can happen on your stock wiring good information just because you haven't seen it? I'm not suggesting that this was the cause of the issue but as I'm sure you know smaller wire means more resistance, and more resistance means a higher current draw at a load that exceeds the wires safe operational ability. Alternators like to die when you pull too much current off of them, so I figured that this could have played into what ultimately caused an alternator failure. I didn't once say anything would break JUST because you haven't done the big 3. I like to advocate safe and adequate installations for anyone's equipment, including a proper electrical system to back it up. Sorry if I come off as being a bit brash. think i might have found one of the main culprits in the death of my alternator(if it is that). the in line fuse between my battery and amp is a 200amp fuse. the suggested fuse size is a 100amp fuse. thus leading to a bigger power draw than necessary. done with the big three, ordered a pair of 100amp fuses and just waiting to install the new alternator, which might have to wait another week due to family vacation(which kind of blows due to the fact of my car being on my mind the entire time). impossible that your fuse is the reason why , the fuse is meant to prevent a fire should you have a direct short , the only problem with too big of a fuse is not being protected against short . your fuse is fine . back in the day my cousin went through a couple alternators on a 94 bonneville running some rf series 1 at 2 ohms , forget which amp he ran but it was rockford as well . i have been lucky in my car audio systems as far as not having an alternator fail , but to me that is a good possibility when you are runnign high power car audio even if it is installed correct . Fuses are matched to the rating of the cable to prevent the cable from melting/burning due to over-current as well. In-line fuses are also a good measure of protection for amps that aren't internally fused. I'm gonna hate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.