07denali Posted August 4, 2012 Report Share Posted August 4, 2012 That Tahoe is sick. 4 alternators. SMD doesn't hold back. Vehicle: 2007 GMC Denali Headunit: Pioneer AVH-8400BH Sub Amp: Rockford Fosgate T-1500bdcp Sub: Ascendant Audio Havoc 12" Electrical: Big 3, Dual Batteries, Stock 160-amp alternator Wiring: RF 0 gauge Box: Custom built 1.89^3 net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted August 4, 2012 Report Share Posted August 4, 2012 Wrong thread ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted August 4, 2012 Report Share Posted August 4, 2012 Heat plays a factor for sure, Other things may factor in as well. for instance, In the morning when my batteries are "cold" and the car has sat all night. My batteries rest at 12.9 or 13.0, (13.2 if i have trickle charged them recently) I start my car and see 14.4 or 14.5. After the engine is warmed up to normal temp i see 14.1 or 14.0. And the batteries will rest at 12.7 to 12.9 depending on if i have been playing full tilt or not. I also rarely see below 13.8 when playing full tilt. Now, there is one instance when i see more voltage drop than others. I have my subs at 80hz lpf, and my mids at 65hz hpf. Just a bit of overlap because my subs drop off a bit up above 70hz. When i get notes that are in that overlap at full tilt i sometimes see 13.5v. But yes, heat makes things less efficient, i am using a stock 65amp alt. And alt's are little ovens anyway. Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satish1015 Posted August 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2012 Wrong thread I think he was talking about the video i posted up 2008 BMW 550i M Sport Build coming soon! 2000 Volvo s40 1.9TPioneer DVD navigation head unitO2 audio performance mid range speakers2 Crescendo PWX-6 Pro Mid Range Speakers2 Crescendo PWX-8 Pro Mid Range Speakers4 Selenium ST200 Super TweetersHifonics ZRX2000.4 Amplifier2- 12 inch DC Audio Level 4 m2Hifonics Brutus BXI-1610D Amplifier2 KinetiK HC1400R- Secondary BatteriesKinetik HC600- Secondary BatteryKnukonceptz 1/0 gauge big 3 upgrade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satish1015 Posted August 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2012 Heat plays a factor for sure, Other things may factor in as well. for instance, In the morning when my batteries are "cold" and the car has sat all night. My batteries rest at 12.9 or 13.0, (13.2 if i have trickle charged them recently) I start my car and see 14.4 or 14.5. After the engine is warmed up to normal temp i see 14.1 or 14.0. And the batteries will rest at 12.7 to 12.9 depending on if i have been playing full tilt or not. I also rarely see below 13.8 when playing full tilt. Now, there is one instance when i see more voltage drop than others. I have my subs at 80hz lpf, and my mids at 65hz hpf. Just a bit of overlap because my subs drop off a bit up above 70hz. When i get notes that are in that overlap at full tilt i sometimes see 13.5v. But yes, heat makes things less efficient, i am using a stock 65amp alt. And alt's are little ovens anyway. i've seen that too! i thought something was wrong because it wasn't holding the charge.. but i guess that must be normal.. wow a 65 amp alt? how much power are you running? i have about 2500 watts right now and at full or close to full volume i see it sometimes dip into the 12.8s 2008 BMW 550i M Sport Build coming soon! 2000 Volvo s40 1.9TPioneer DVD navigation head unitO2 audio performance mid range speakers2 Crescendo PWX-6 Pro Mid Range Speakers2 Crescendo PWX-8 Pro Mid Range Speakers4 Selenium ST200 Super TweetersHifonics ZRX2000.4 Amplifier2- 12 inch DC Audio Level 4 m2Hifonics Brutus BXI-1610D Amplifier2 KinetiK HC1400R- Secondary BatteriesKinetik HC600- Secondary BatteryKnukonceptz 1/0 gauge big 3 upgrade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phototini_xB Posted August 8, 2012 Report Share Posted August 8, 2012 The only safe way of running higher voltage in your vehicle is to have a separate charging system using an externally regulated alternator. If you up the voltage on your main alternator it can fry your electrical components because most everything in your vehicle is meant to run on 12-14.6 volts. This is commonly done in my other hobby of high power CB radio to get more watts out of transmitting amplifiers. 2012 Scion xB Build- http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/150000-2012-scion-xb-temp-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted August 8, 2012 Report Share Posted August 8, 2012 YOU can't modify an alternator. Shop around from either DC Power, Mechman, Singer, or Excessive Amperage and see who has the best price/warranty that you could be happy with. 14s for voltage are solid, if you're not dipping below 14s you don't need an HO alt until you upgrade amps. HOW are you measuring these 14.1 volts though, an aftermarket voltmeter or the one in the dash? This is not exactly true. Some alts can be modified with the proper knowledge and applied tech and monitoring. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phototini_xB Posted August 8, 2012 Report Share Posted August 8, 2012 YOU can't modify an alternator. Shop around from either DC Power, Mechman, Singer, or Excessive Amperage and see who has the best price/warranty that you could be happy with. 14s for voltage are solid, if you're not dipping below 14s you don't need an HO alt until you upgrade amps. HOW are you measuring these 14.1 volts though, an aftermarket voltmeter or the one in the dash? This is not exactly true. Some alts can be modified with the proper knowledge and applied tech and monitoring. I'm pretty sure he was saying that YOU a normal person with no knowledge or experience working with alternators can modify an alternator. Not that it CAN'T be done. 2012 Scion xB Build- http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/150000-2012-scion-xb-temp-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crandis16 Posted August 8, 2012 Report Share Posted August 8, 2012 IMO it's not worth it to mod your own alt. An overdrive pully I think would help, but I don't know how much you would really be able to get out of your stock alt and I think you will still be disappointed with it after the modifications. But I'm no expert here so I may be wrong. My Red zx2 Build Log My Black zx2 Build Log My Red zx2 UBL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted August 8, 2012 Report Share Posted August 8, 2012 YOU can't modify an alternator. Shop around from either DC Power, Mechman, Singer, or Excessive Amperage and see who has the best price/warranty that you could be happy with. 14s for voltage are solid, if you're not dipping below 14s you don't need an HO alt until you upgrade amps. HOW are you measuring these 14.1 volts though, an aftermarket voltmeter or the one in the dash? This is not exactly true. Some alts can be modified with the proper knowledge and applied tech and monitoring. As mentioned in the comment below yours already, the "you" was capitalized for a reason. I know alts can be modified and rewound with better internals. I was merely suggesting that the OP not try it, with little to NO knowledge. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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