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Big 3 did nothing =(


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That Tahoe is sick. 4 alternators. SMD doesn't hold back.

Vehicle: 2007 GMC Denali

Headunit: Pioneer AVH-8400BH

Sub Amp: Rockford Fosgate T-1500bdcp

Sub: Ascendant Audio Havoc 12"

Electrical: Big 3, Dual Batteries, Stock 160-amp alternator

Wiring: RF 0 gauge

Box: Custom built 1.89^3 net

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Heat plays a factor for sure, Other things may factor in as well. for instance, In the morning when my batteries are "cold" and the car has sat all night. My batteries rest at 12.9 or 13.0, (13.2 if i have trickle charged them recently) I start my car and see 14.4 or 14.5. After the engine is warmed up to normal temp i see 14.1 or 14.0. And the batteries will rest at 12.7 to 12.9 depending on if i have been playing full tilt or not. I also rarely see below 13.8 when playing full tilt.

Now, there is one instance when i see more voltage drop than others. I have my subs at 80hz lpf, and my mids at 65hz hpf. Just a bit of overlap because my subs drop off a bit up above 70hz. When i get notes that are in that overlap at full tilt i sometimes see 13.5v.

But yes, heat makes things less efficient, i am using a stock 65amp alt. And alt's are little ovens anyway.

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Wrong thread :noob:

I think he was talking about the video i posted up

2008 BMW 550i M Sport

Build coming soon!

2000 Volvo s40 1.9T
Pioneer DVD navigation head unit
O2 audio performance mid range speakers
2 Crescendo PWX-6 Pro Mid Range Speakers
2 Crescendo PWX-8 Pro Mid Range Speakers
4 Selenium ST200 Super Tweeters
Hifonics ZRX2000.4 Amplifier
2- 12 inch DC Audio Level 4 m2
Hifonics Brutus BXI-1610D Amplifier

2 KinetiK HC1400R- Secondary Batteries
Kinetik HC600- Secondary Battery
Knukonceptz 1/0 gauge big 3 upgrade

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Heat plays a factor for sure, Other things may factor in as well. for instance, In the morning when my batteries are "cold" and the car has sat all night. My batteries rest at 12.9 or 13.0, (13.2 if i have trickle charged them recently) I start my car and see 14.4 or 14.5. After the engine is warmed up to normal temp i see 14.1 or 14.0. And the batteries will rest at 12.7 to 12.9 depending on if i have been playing full tilt or not. I also rarely see below 13.8 when playing full tilt.

Now, there is one instance when i see more voltage drop than others. I have my subs at 80hz lpf, and my mids at 65hz hpf. Just a bit of overlap because my subs drop off a bit up above 70hz. When i get notes that are in that overlap at full tilt i sometimes see 13.5v.

But yes, heat makes things less efficient, i am using a stock 65amp alt. And alt's are little ovens anyway.

i've seen that too! i thought something was wrong because it wasn't holding the charge.. but i guess that must be normal.. wow a 65 amp alt? how much power are you running? i have about 2500 watts right now and at full or close to full volume i see it sometimes dip into the 12.8s

2008 BMW 550i M Sport

Build coming soon!

2000 Volvo s40 1.9T
Pioneer DVD navigation head unit
O2 audio performance mid range speakers
2 Crescendo PWX-6 Pro Mid Range Speakers
2 Crescendo PWX-8 Pro Mid Range Speakers
4 Selenium ST200 Super Tweeters
Hifonics ZRX2000.4 Amplifier
2- 12 inch DC Audio Level 4 m2
Hifonics Brutus BXI-1610D Amplifier

2 KinetiK HC1400R- Secondary Batteries
Kinetik HC600- Secondary Battery
Knukonceptz 1/0 gauge big 3 upgrade

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The only safe way of running higher voltage in your vehicle is to have a separate charging system using an externally regulated alternator. If you up the voltage on your main alternator it can fry your electrical components because most everything in your vehicle is meant to run on 12-14.6 volts. This is commonly done in my other hobby of high power CB radio to get more watts out of transmitting amplifiers.

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YOU can't modify an alternator. Shop around from either DC Power, Mechman, Singer, or Excessive Amperage and see who has the best price/warranty that you could be happy with. 14s for voltage are solid, if you're not dipping below 14s you don't need an HO alt until you upgrade amps. HOW are you measuring these 14.1 volts though, an aftermarket voltmeter or the one in the dash?

This is not exactly true. Some alts can be modified with the proper knowledge and applied tech and monitoring.

CURRENT SYSTEM:

  • Alternator:
    1. Stock alt on mids/highs
    2. Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v
  • Batteries: (2) XS D1400s
  • Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks
  • Headunit: 80-PRS
  • Sub Amp: DC 5.0k
  • Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones
  • Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal.
  • Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4
  • Active Components:
    • Mids RE XXX 6.5c
    • Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar)
  • Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab.

Build Log

If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD

 
Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db
Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
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YOU can't modify an alternator. Shop around from either DC Power, Mechman, Singer, or Excessive Amperage and see who has the best price/warranty that you could be happy with. 14s for voltage are solid, if you're not dipping below 14s you don't need an HO alt until you upgrade amps. HOW are you measuring these 14.1 volts though, an aftermarket voltmeter or the one in the dash?

This is not exactly true. Some alts can be modified with the proper knowledge and applied tech and monitoring.

I'm pretty sure he was saying that YOU a normal person with no knowledge or experience working with alternators can modify an alternator. Not that it CAN'T be done.

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IMO it's not worth it to mod your own alt. An overdrive pully I think would help, but I don't know how much you would really be able to get out of your stock alt and I think you will still be disappointed with it after the modifications. But I'm no expert here so I may be wrong.

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YOU can't modify an alternator. Shop around from either DC Power, Mechman, Singer, or Excessive Amperage and see who has the best price/warranty that you could be happy with. 14s for voltage are solid, if you're not dipping below 14s you don't need an HO alt until you upgrade amps. HOW are you measuring these 14.1 volts though, an aftermarket voltmeter or the one in the dash?

This is not exactly true. Some alts can be modified with the proper knowledge and applied tech and monitoring.

As mentioned in the comment below yours already, the "you" was capitalized for a reason. I know alts can be modified and rewound with better internals. I was merely suggesting that the OP not try it, with little to NO knowledge.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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