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Hello guys, I need your help. Maybe anyone of you has any experience with this issue or Bit One configs.
The thing is that I have wired my Bit One and it does receive 12 volts from the battery, but it doesn't power up.
What I've tried:
- My friend has a Bit One, I tried replacing his with mine and it didn't work, while his does.
- Tried a different DRC and manually powering it on
- Hooking it up to the battery
What I haven't done yet:
- Connect it to a laptop with USB to see if it turns on (haven't tried because I am not ready to tune it yet as I've just only wired it)
Things I'm unsure of:
- Is it possible that a config causes this issue? (probably not as it should turn on when it's hooked up straight to the battery I'm guessing)
- Is it possible that, because my Bit One hasn't been powered on for half a year, perhaps it needs to be 'charged'
Anyone, please help me!
Edit: could it be that it just turns on when it senses an audio signal?
Hey guys, just had my first professional install done on my Lexus ls430...the owner of the shop happened to have a similar model Lexus, so that was really cool.
What I had installed as listed
---20 foot of Wirez signature 0 AWG copper wire
---Wirez Mini ANL 0 AWG fuse holder (w/ 150 Amp fuse)
---Wirez Fused Distro Power Block - 2 Amp
Anyhow, I have a few questions...
1. What is the biggest Amp I can throw on here without adding a secondary battery?
2. If I added a secondary battery in the back and ran the 0 AWG directly from alternator to secondary battery (in this case it's gonna be either a JY power 45 or 79 AH 12 volt lithium ion battery.....would the 0 AWG be enough to charge this battery effectively so that I could power a large amp (eg. 3000 watts RMS or greater? I am just wondering how many batteries I can effectively charge without putting too much strain on the alternator...and of course I am considering getting a HO alternator...
3. If I throw on a 240 Amp Alternator, how can I limit the amount of current that is drawn through the 0 AWG into the secondary battery? eg. do I need a battery management system of some sort?
A week ago I upgraded my old Kinetik battery to an XS Power AGM D925 in hopes to help my headlight dimming. It helps but not completely and the dimming comes back hard after about 10 minutes playtime. Voltage drops from 14.1 to 12/13 volts within 15 minutes max if playing it constantly.
I'm running one Sundown SA12 by an oldschool KOLE Audio HK620-2 amplifier in bridge mode 620 Watts I think. Low power for this sub I know but it sounds fantastic and flexes everything. Cannot find much info on my KOLE amp and I know its not class D. If I got a newer "Class D" amp would it lessen my headlight dimming?
Also, did the big 3 upgrade with 1/0 gauge wire, and 2 gauge wire going from under hood to trunk XS battery and amp. Have a brand new Bosch battery under the hood as well, and XS battery is connected using a stinger relay/isolator so they're not connected when car is off. Stock 110Amp alternator. Upgrading alternator not an option. Every single thing in my car is grounded properly.
After fully charging XS D925 battery externally and installing it still dims after 5-10 minutes and sometimes immediately depending on the song I'm playing. I'm starting to think my KOLE amp is causing these dimming issues somehow. What do you think?
Hey all. I'd like to wire an "accessory relay" and manual on/off switch for my amps and internal lighting (all currently connected to remote turn on wire behind head unit). How would I wire up a relay with a switch? Ideally the switch will turn on the amps and everything when my car is OFF and everything comes on when car comes on no matter if the switch is on or off.
I have an XS D7500 Battery that I am trying to get rid of. It's been sitting in the garage and I don't use it. I fully charged it on the XS Power battery charger a few weeks ago and its currently resting at 12.7V - 12.8V.
$500 shipped and it's yours, thanks for looking! 😎
(If you are local in the Denver area and I don't have to ship it, I will give you a better deal!)
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