MrSkippyJ Posted August 16, 2012 Report Posted August 16, 2012 glad you won't have a better sitting just above your signal processor Quote F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69
SnowDrifter Posted August 16, 2012 Report Posted August 16, 2012 Found it! It's 11.5" long and will work up to 4/0. PM me with info if you want it Quote ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444
hdorre Posted August 16, 2012 Author Report Posted August 16, 2012 glad you won't have a better sitting just above your signal processor Oh hell no!! Found it! It's 11.5" long and will work up to 4/0. PM me with info if you want it YGPM Quote On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread
Tarball Posted August 17, 2012 Report Posted August 17, 2012 I recently ran into this issue and i stripped and soldered the 2 ends together. It was not pretty. Had a big solder buldge that I then had to grind down. I like the 1/0 connector idea then maybe shrink wrap on top of that + etape and loom. A few other good ideas in this thread. Your way sounds like a pain lol Yeah, it was a pain, I wouldn't recommend it at all. Quote CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
TexasJesse Posted August 22, 2012 Report Posted August 22, 2012 I didnt read through all of the replies, but I had the same issue. What I did was add a volt and amp meter in between. It connected them and I was able to run the extra run of 1/0 wire that I needed. I mounted the meter to my subwoofer box so I could see the amp and voltage, but the the issue is, I would have to be on the passenger side of my rear door to see it. I got it for the issue that you are running into, not so I could see the meter, but it did its job. You wont loose any amperage or voltage. Only amperage or voltage loss would be from the length of your wire, which I experienced at .4 volts. But Im not sure how accurate that was, because the voltage meter I was using at the battery, was one of those blue LED digital voltage meters you can get for $12 off of ebay, so no telling if its dialed in or not. Either way, that's what I would do. Plus if its in the right spot, you can see your voltage and amperage. Its made by XScorpion. Its a XScorpion DAV02P. Pretty cheap solution for $25. Here it is http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_38978_Xscorpion-DAV02P.html Quote
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