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double rms on mids/highs


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I would be careful clamping your amp in 2 channel with your mids hooked up. Unless you start with your gains all the way down and burp for like 1 second, which makes it really hard to get an accurate reading. I bridged my 4-channel ran it to my components, voltage without any speakers hooked up was 34v. Hooked up speakers to see what i got under load, and in the time it took to get a god reading i cooked my mids. Was doing 120-130 watts a 1khz to 90w rms speakers. I should have just left well enough alone because on music they were doing fine, probably seing around 100-110 watts. And i had everything set with the 0db tone using the dd-1.

You may not have the same problem but then again, you want to risk it?

Thats what i was hopeing i wouldnt do. Because these mids were not exactly cheap for my budget that i can replace them tomorrow if needed... but at the same time i was like... DARN... what to use the other 2 channels for... lol

My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee

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My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/

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2 B2 Class H quattro's

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2 B2 HNv3 12 d2

B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk

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Dial the amp down to run rms power. Mids and highs will burn up really fast once they start to stink

Ohms law: power = v2/r where v is ac voltage, and r is the resistance

See now i understand what you said more clearly. the 14.4 is the DC voltage. Not AC. the AC voltage is after the amplifier amplifies it and the gain knob controls how much it is amplified. meaning i use a DD1 to insure zero distortion... and i set my amp up on 2 channels... and i use the volt meter on the the speaker outputs to measure 18.4 v...

Now will doing it this way give me any benefits? Since you had to guide me into understanding how my own amp works (i feel like a student being guided by a teacher lol) ... can you or someone else explain the benefits of it? does it have something to do with "headroom" that i keep hearing about? ...

Will it make the amp work less hard, giving it better SQ or better efficiency or something?

My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee

My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37

My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/

2016 Mazda 6 Touring

JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction

B2 prototype DSP 6to8

B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set

2 B2 Class H quattro's

1 B2 Zero.5R @.5

2 B2 HNv3 12 d2

B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk

Northstar Group 35 under the hood

100ft 2/0 welding cable

30ft 4ga welding cable

20ft 8ga welding cable

All stinger OFC speaker wire

Soundrive custom RCA's

Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?

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Pretty much what you are doing is setting the amp to give you a specific amount of power. In your case: 125 watts. More accurate than guessing on the gain since your amp puts out more power than the speakers can handle.

The dd-1 is there simply to make sure there are no other artifacts in the output signal.

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