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Yeah I meant a regular soldering iron. Try just melting the glue around each screw.

2005 Subaru Outback Wagon Pioneer 9400BH Fi Q 15, SAZ1500dV3

The first build>>> http://www.stevemead...-outback-build/

140.9 @ 36hz Sealed on dash!

REBUILT!!! 2 Fi Q 15s, 2 SAZ1500dv3 146.9 @ 39hz dBDRA certified

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Sorry for the crappy pics ya'll my this iPhone isnt very clear at all.

Also I think that may work if I can find my soldering iron in the garage. What about the rest of the glue around the spider landing?

- 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene

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looks like someone used screws to hold the spider down during gluing, and since that is the same basket as the VVX8, those are to hold down the spiders. On the vvx8 the spiders are spaced and the screws hold the spider down when gluing. So yes, you can remove them. but i cant suggest anything since i dont truly know how stiff they are.

29408240963_9908a51930_o.png
Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's]

BL :  http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/

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You can pry off the spider with a flat screw driver, or chisel. It should separate fairly cleanly.

Check out YouTube to see how others recone subs. There are tons of helpful demonstrations.

2005 Subaru Outback Wagon Pioneer 9400BH Fi Q 15, SAZ1500dV3

The first build>>> http://www.stevemead...-outback-build/

140.9 @ 36hz Sealed on dash!

REBUILT!!! 2 Fi Q 15s, 2 SAZ1500dv3 146.9 @ 39hz dBDRA certified

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I ordered this one from Jacob over at SA. Saw it on the yard sale thread and couldnt pass it up. So i guess that is how it is suppose to be? I cut most of the spider out and got the coil out but still havent gotten the screws out which I am researching now. I'm trying to find a good YouTube video to show how to do it.

Here is what I have so far:

56159069-43C0-48E7-BA5D-DB578C2A98D2-289-0000017E2B427A00.jpg

731D9247-5CFD-4F3D-AF82-402880E2B1A7-289-0000017E30F0E1B2.jpg

158528C7-7CC7-4EB9-B304-0951BB23160F-289-0000017E3AAD4E31.jpg

The soldering gun wont get it quite hot enough to completely loosen up the glue around the screws but I am on YT now trying to find a vid that will me how to do this

DC6805BE-5B4F-448D-9E7E-77412F84146A-289-0000017CB2B5FFE8.jpg

The screw with all the scuffs around it is the one I tried heating up to remove

662EF651-5DA4-415A-823E-A94F517A0AEC-289-0000017E35EFA63D.jpg

- 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene

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Do i have to put a whole new basket on when I recone it? I didnt think SA sent baskets with recones

- 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene

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baskets do no come with recones for 1. second, instead of going through all that trouble, i would just buy a new basket which arent expensive at all, and just take the basket that is on it right now off and trash it.

edit: no you dont need a new basket to do a recone, you just need to clean the surfaces in which glue does down on to bare metal (shiny silver).

Edited by ChevyBoy95

29408240963_9908a51930_o.png
Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's]

BL :  http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/

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Only reason I asked if they came with it was because the guy in the vid had one and didnt say if he payed for it but I thought you had to buy them separate. I was planning on using this basket if I could. I will have no trouble getting the area to glue the surround to nice and shiny but I cant get this spider glue off to save my life. the soldering gun just wont heat it up enough. I am thinking that the glue is either locktite 5min epoxy or CA glue. On all the youtube videos it seems like none of the woofers have all the glue around the spiders

- 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene

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Anyone know the price of a new basket? I was trying to keep cost down cause I could buy a used working one for around 90-100 and wanted to have less than that is this one. I dont know why there would be such an excessive amount of glue on this woofer

- 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene

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Ok I got the basket off and got the push terminals off the basket.

Can I soak the basket in something to remove the glue without stripping the black paint?

Is there a way without taking a mini hand held torch to melt the glue off?

6031DB03-5229-4951-BC37-E1807F438065-289-0000018020E27104.jpg

B501EFE9-817E-4171-A08D-1D0021FCA251-289-0000018026798FF0.jpg

2B88FB93-8676-44FF-9B8B-84C21E5DE3B7-289-000001802B70994A.jpg

- 1997 Chevy Tahoe- Big 3 (1/0)- Dual Autocraft Batts- JVC KD-A315 HU- AQ 2200.1D- 18" AQ HDC3- Box w/ Removable Port (6ft^3 @ 36hz & 6.7ft^3 @ 42hz)- 39' 1/0 & 13' 2/0 Flex-A-Prene

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