tacomaguy1 Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 t-nuts are meh....you'll like them until one comes loose on the back of the baffle and you can't get the bolt out. ive thought about this before and if you had a really thick baffle you think you could just fiberglass the t-nut to the back of the baffle and just not have the bolt come through all the way? I've seen them come loose when they're glassed in, and have come loose when glued in Team Flex Issues Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aleroking Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 t-nuts are meh....you'll like them until one comes loose on the back of the baffle and you can't get the bolt out. ive thought about this before and if you had a really thick baffle you think you could just fiberglass the t-nut to the back of the baffle and just not have the bolt come through all the way? I've seen them come loose when they're glassed in, and have come loose when glued in mehhh ill just stick with screws, maybe ill try threaded rod or something one day. 2 fi btl 18s on 2 crescendo 3500s walled in a 2dr 2000 alero build log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141663-2-walled-btls-18-on-7k-in-a-2000-2dr-alero/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiKaZz74 Posted September 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 Ok so since I can't get to the back should I do threaded inserts? It's 1 layer 3/4mdf braced pretty good but hole is effed and im gonna add a 2nd layer and do bolts anyways. My SPL to SQ Build Log Vehicle:1997 Dodge Dakota Ext Cab 4x4 2009 Dodge Journey SXT5.2L V8 Magnum 3.5L V6 Stock AltEquipment: Headunit- Alpine CDE-147BT Mids/Highs Amp- JL Audio G6600 Class AB 6 Channel Sub Amp- Hifonics BRZ1700.1D @ 2 Ohms Taramps DSP3000.1D Sub- Hertz Hi Energy 12" HX300D SounDrive SDA3 12 Tweeters- Rockford Fosgate Power Series Silk Domes Hertz Hi-Energy Mids- Dayton Audio Reference 4" Full Range Drivers Midbass- Silver Flute 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5" Processor- MiniDSP 2x4 RCA- 6 channels of SounDrive HF series Wire- EB Flex 2/0 -Member of Team SounDrive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiKaZz74 Posted September 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2012 Ok so I got 8, 1/4"*2 1/2" stainless steel machine bolts. I also got steel drive inserts. I was wondering tho sInce they are only about 1/2" long could I do 1 per layer for a total of 2? My SPL to SQ Build Log Vehicle:1997 Dodge Dakota Ext Cab 4x4 2009 Dodge Journey SXT5.2L V8 Magnum 3.5L V6 Stock AltEquipment: Headunit- Alpine CDE-147BT Mids/Highs Amp- JL Audio G6600 Class AB 6 Channel Sub Amp- Hifonics BRZ1700.1D @ 2 Ohms Taramps DSP3000.1D Sub- Hertz Hi Energy 12" HX300D SounDrive SDA3 12 Tweeters- Rockford Fosgate Power Series Silk Domes Hertz Hi-Energy Mids- Dayton Audio Reference 4" Full Range Drivers Midbass- Silver Flute 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5" Processor- MiniDSP 2x4 RCA- 6 channels of SounDrive HF series Wire- EB Flex 2/0 -Member of Team SounDrive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ear2ear Posted September 6, 2012 Report Share Posted September 6, 2012 Ok so since I can't get to the back should I do threaded inserts? It's 1 layer 3/4mdf braced pretty good but hole is effed and im gonna add a 2nd layer and do bolts anyways. I put my threaded inserts in from the back side so the wood is sandwiched between the insert's flange and the woofer. If you put them in from the outside they are only held in by their threads. Ok so I got 8, 1/4"*2 1/2" stainless steel machine bolts. I also got steel drive inserts. I was wondering tho sInce they are only about 1/2" long could I do 1 per layer for a total of 2? It would be hard to have the threads lined up / in phase / clocked right, so the bolt didn't bind. 1/4" bolts fit through the basket holes? I used #10-24 which is about 3/16" '09 Sierra Ext Cab - under construction (1) RF T2500-1 -running- (4) RF T1 12's (1) RF T1000-4 -running- (2) RF T1652-S Stock alt / battery -plus- (1) DC Power 230a & (2) Kinetik 1800 Buncha OFC Knu Buncha Second Skin Kenwood DDX814 - Alpine Imprint - RF 360.3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bighossf150 Posted September 6, 2012 Report Share Posted September 6, 2012 Ok so since I can't get to the back should I do threaded inserts? It's 1 layer 3/4mdf braced pretty good but hole is effed and im gonna add a 2nd layer and do bolts anyways. I put my threaded inserts in from the back side so the wood is sandwiched between the insert's flange and the woofer. If you put them in from the outside they are only held in by their threads. Ok so I got 8, 1/4"*2 1/2" stainless steel machine bolts. I also got steel drive inserts. I was wondering tho sInce they are only about 1/2" long could I do 1 per layer for a total of 2? It would be hard to have the threads lined up / in phase / clocked right, so the bolt didn't bind. 1/4" bolts fit through the basket holes? I used #10-24 which is about 3/16" I had to drill out my hdc3's to fit 1/4" machine screws Used to have a loud truck 2009 Corvette Z06, H/C/I, 150 shot, g force tune, 730rwhp/690rwtq 2013 F-150 limited, MPT Tune, leveled on 35"s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiKaZz74 Posted September 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2012 Damn... well that's just what I got since they had most threaded inserts of that size but I have to go back since I took the rest of them and need more to do 2 anyways My SPL to SQ Build Log Vehicle:1997 Dodge Dakota Ext Cab 4x4 2009 Dodge Journey SXT5.2L V8 Magnum 3.5L V6 Stock AltEquipment: Headunit- Alpine CDE-147BT Mids/Highs Amp- JL Audio G6600 Class AB 6 Channel Sub Amp- Hifonics BRZ1700.1D @ 2 Ohms Taramps DSP3000.1D Sub- Hertz Hi Energy 12" HX300D SounDrive SDA3 12 Tweeters- Rockford Fosgate Power Series Silk Domes Hertz Hi-Energy Mids- Dayton Audio Reference 4" Full Range Drivers Midbass- Silver Flute 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5" Processor- MiniDSP 2x4 RCA- 6 channels of SounDrive HF series Wire- EB Flex 2/0 -Member of Team SounDrive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ear2ear Posted September 6, 2012 Report Share Posted September 6, 2012 Given that there are inserts with & without flanges, I guess it wouldn't matter if you installed them from the front or back. I felt more comfortable with the flanges like I mentioned. '09 Sierra Ext Cab - under construction (1) RF T2500-1 -running- (4) RF T1 12's (1) RF T1000-4 -running- (2) RF T1652-S Stock alt / battery -plus- (1) DC Power 230a & (2) Kinetik 1800 Buncha OFC Knu Buncha Second Skin Kenwood DDX814 - Alpine Imprint - RF 360.3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bighossf150 Posted September 6, 2012 Report Share Posted September 6, 2012 It wasn't really a problem, only took a few min Used to have a loud truck 2009 Corvette Z06, H/C/I, 150 shot, g force tune, 730rwhp/690rwtq 2013 F-150 limited, MPT Tune, leveled on 35"s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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