KiKaZz74 Posted September 5, 2012 Report Posted September 5, 2012 Ok so I'm going to get a 2nd pIece of mdf to add a 2nd baffle to my box Question is what bolts/nuts do I get since Im replacing the screws with bolts. I'm going bolts/nuts since I've somehow managed to strip and snap 4 of the 8 deck screws holding my Fi BL 18 to my box. Any pics/info of what I need and how to do It is appreciated. Cody C. My SPL to SQ Build Log Vehicle:1997 Dodge Dakota Ext Cab 4x4 2009 Dodge Journey SXT5.2L V8 Magnum 3.5L V6 Stock AltEquipment: Headunit- Alpine CDE-147BT Mids/Highs Amp- JL Audio G6600 Class AB 6 Channel Sub Amp- Hifonics BRZ1700.1D @ 2 Ohms Taramps DSP3000.1D Sub- Hertz Hi Energy 12" HX300D SounDrive SDA3 12 Tweeters- Rockford Fosgate Power Series Silk Domes Hertz Hi-Energy Mids- Dayton Audio Reference 4" Full Range Drivers Midbass- Silver Flute 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5" Processor- MiniDSP 2x4 RCA- 6 channels of SounDrive HF series Wire- EB Flex 2/0 -Member of Team SounDrive
mttornquist Posted September 5, 2012 Report Posted September 5, 2012 Use bolts with t-nuts ok the other side Its easy and works great! My Build Log: http://www.stevemead...lmost-complete/
aN-i-No Posted September 5, 2012 Report Posted September 5, 2012 Screws break when the baffle flexes. Stop the baffle from flexing. Unless they're mounted vertically and the screws can't handle the weight....In which case you should get botls lol
ALPINE408 Posted September 5, 2012 Report Posted September 5, 2012 how do you strip and break deck screws? you sure there realy deck screws? i have yet to bust one of them Have you ever had your woofers blown?
KiKaZz74 Posted September 5, 2012 Author Report Posted September 5, 2012 I think they are deck screws. They are 1.25" square drives meant for composite decking. But the sub is mounted at a angle behind my passenger seat. But I'm guessing I'd use hex head bolts? Like 2.5"? And like 3/16" thick? And how about liners in the wood? My SPL to SQ Build Log Vehicle:1997 Dodge Dakota Ext Cab 4x4 2009 Dodge Journey SXT5.2L V8 Magnum 3.5L V6 Stock AltEquipment: Headunit- Alpine CDE-147BT Mids/Highs Amp- JL Audio G6600 Class AB 6 Channel Sub Amp- Hifonics BRZ1700.1D @ 2 Ohms Taramps DSP3000.1D Sub- Hertz Hi Energy 12" HX300D SounDrive SDA3 12 Tweeters- Rockford Fosgate Power Series Silk Domes Hertz Hi-Energy Mids- Dayton Audio Reference 4" Full Range Drivers Midbass- Silver Flute 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5" Processor- MiniDSP 2x4 RCA- 6 channels of SounDrive HF series Wire- EB Flex 2/0 -Member of Team SounDrive
tacomaguy1 Posted September 5, 2012 Report Posted September 5, 2012 t-nuts are meh....you'll like them until one comes loose on the back of the baffle and you can't get the bolt out. Team Flex Issues
KiKaZz74 Posted September 5, 2012 Author Report Posted September 5, 2012 What should I use then. I can only get bolts out from the ffront box My SPL to SQ Build Log Vehicle:1997 Dodge Dakota Ext Cab 4x4 2009 Dodge Journey SXT5.2L V8 Magnum 3.5L V6 Stock AltEquipment: Headunit- Alpine CDE-147BT Mids/Highs Amp- JL Audio G6600 Class AB 6 Channel Sub Amp- Hifonics BRZ1700.1D @ 2 Ohms Taramps DSP3000.1D Sub- Hertz Hi Energy 12" HX300D SounDrive SDA3 12 Tweeters- Rockford Fosgate Power Series Silk Domes Hertz Hi-Energy Mids- Dayton Audio Reference 4" Full Range Drivers Midbass- Silver Flute 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5" Processor- MiniDSP 2x4 RCA- 6 channels of SounDrive HF series Wire- EB Flex 2/0 -Member of Team SounDrive
ear2ear Posted September 5, 2012 Report Posted September 5, 2012 ^^^Agree w/ tacomaguy...been there done that For my new box, I bought threaded inserts from Mcmaster Carr. '09 Sierra Ext Cab - under construction (1) RF T2500-1 -running- (4) RF T1 12's (1) RF T1000-4 -running- (2) RF T1652-S Stock alt / battery -plus- (1) DC Power 230a & (2) Kinetik 1800 Buncha OFC Knu Buncha Second Skin Kenwood DDX814 - Alpine Imprint - RF 360.3
aleroking Posted September 5, 2012 Report Posted September 5, 2012 t-nuts are meh....you'll like them until one comes loose on the back of the baffle and you can't get the bolt out. ive thought about this before and if you had a really thick baffle you think you could just fiberglass the t-nut to the back of the baffle and just not have the bolt come through all the way? 2 fi btl 18s on 2 crescendo 3500s walled in a 2dr 2000 alero build log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141663-2-walled-btls-18-on-7k-in-a-2000-2dr-alero/
aleroking Posted September 5, 2012 Report Posted September 5, 2012 but op only time ive seen screws break is when the baffles flexing too, stop the baffle flex and i bet you wont break any more screws. 2 fi btl 18s on 2 crescendo 3500s walled in a 2dr 2000 alero build log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141663-2-walled-btls-18-on-7k-in-a-2000-2dr-alero/
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