gt58 Posted September 7, 2012 Report Posted September 7, 2012 im building my box today and im not sure if it is necessary to use t nuts because i do not plan on removing the driver. im only at ~800-900 rms. are wood screws sufficient if i do not plan on removing the sub. like i said its not crazy power but i would still like to be safe if necessary. what do u guys think edit: im using two sheets of 3/4 mdf for the front if that makes any difference
n8ball2013 Posted September 7, 2012 Report Posted September 7, 2012 you do not need t nuts THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.
Chris Hammer Posted September 7, 2012 Report Posted September 7, 2012 Yea they are probably fine. Are you mounting it sideways or vertical and what kind of sub. I used em on my sa-12 about the same power range...sub was even inverted for a while. Make sure they have a good bite and penetrate into the second baffle. MY BUILD *****http://tinyurl.com/gmcbuild***** Vehicles 2005 GMC Canyon CB1000r - Currently where any future funds are going. (exhasut,bazzaz, ohlins shock, screen, etc.) crf250r - Used to be race bike..now I just trail ride..practice at the track on it. CH80 - Daily beater (when nice weather)best 150$ ever spent. 100+mpg Sold to: Skullz - pstone11 - Leo1103 - Volvo 63' - pavelpardo - imnew59585 Shower farts still piss me off.I think theyre pretty neat. When the water runs down your crack as you let one out... its like shitting in a crockpot.
gt58 Posted September 7, 2012 Author Report Posted September 7, 2012 Yea they are probably fine. Are you mounting it sideways or vertical and what kind of sub. I used em on my sa-12 about the same power range...sub was even inverted for a while. Make sure they have a good bite and penetrate into the second baffle. sub back another question would be, since i am using drywall screws for the sub every 5 inches or so, if i have some left overs, are they ok to mount my woofer? i know people snap the heads off and that would suck, or should i get some stronger screws. also should i have some of the screw come thru the baffle? ex. 2 inch screw would stick out approx .5 inches
Chris Hammer Posted September 7, 2012 Report Posted September 7, 2012 Yea they are probably fine. Are you mounting it sideways or vertical and what kind of sub. I used em on my sa-12 about the same power range...sub was even inverted for a while. Make sure they have a good bite and penetrate into the second baffle. sub back another question would be, since i am using drywall screws for the sub every 5 inches or so, if i have some left overs, are they ok to mount my woofer? i know people snap the heads off and that would suck, or should i get some stronger screws. also should i have some of the screw come thru the baffle? ex. 2 inch screw would stick out approx .5 inches It wont hurt if it pokes through the baffle. I've used drywall screws before. No problems with snapped heads for me. My last setup the screws barely came through the baffle. If you are doing a plexi window its not desirable but it wont hurt anything MY BUILD *****http://tinyurl.com/gmcbuild***** Vehicles 2005 GMC Canyon CB1000r - Currently where any future funds are going. (exhasut,bazzaz, ohlins shock, screen, etc.) crf250r - Used to be race bike..now I just trail ride..practice at the track on it. CH80 - Daily beater (when nice weather)best 150$ ever spent. 100+mpg Sold to: Skullz - pstone11 - Leo1103 - Volvo 63' - pavelpardo - imnew59585 Shower farts still piss me off.I think theyre pretty neat. When the water runs down your crack as you let one out... its like shitting in a crockpot.
RAM_Designs Posted September 8, 2012 Report Posted September 8, 2012 No way you'll need to use t-nuts...you can probably pull the sub in and out of the box as many times as you want and really not worry about it. Deep subs with big motors are another story though, since those put more pressure on the mounting screws. Ryan Miskin - owner of RAM Designs I have my PM's turned off, please email at <script data-cfhash='f9e31' type="text/javascript"> /* */</script> 2200+ designs since March 2011...
gt58 Posted September 8, 2012 Author Report Posted September 8, 2012 No way you'll need to use t-nuts...you can probably pull the sub in and out of the box as many times as you want and really not worry about it. Deep subs with big motors are another story though, since those put more pressure on the mounting screws. i just finsihed the box today, that woofer is a beast, 50 lbs. i ended up using the drywall screws. on a side note, its killin the lows now )
ChevyBoy95 Posted September 9, 2012 Report Posted September 9, 2012 once you start pulling screws/snapping screws from the baffle (usually only big boy subs) then you need t nuts, and usually the subs are mounted vertically so more weight is pushing on the screws. but for you, you dont need them. Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's] BL : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/
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