will77530 Posted September 15, 2012 Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 and i know for a fact dc uses them ive glued them onto the subs So did they forget to put the little pads on my sub? its hard to see but on one of them it looks like there is a white sot from it coming off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ18 Posted September 15, 2012 Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 The noise is not tinsel slap. The XLs come with sewn lead and there is no need for the felt pads. I highly doubt that you would hear the leads with the subs mounted inside of the box. Without hearing it for myself, the best guess I can give you is just from my own experience and I am going to say you were playing too far out of tuning and that caused the sound. If you want to play down to 25hz, then you need to tune the box that low. I wouldnt play the same songs just to see what happens, play regular,unboosted, music that doesnt drop into the mid 20s and see if the sound goes away. This may also solve your smell issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moh.vze.com Posted September 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 (edited) The noise is not tinsel slap. The XLs come with sewn lead and there is no need for the felt pads. I highly doubt that you would hear the leads with the subs mounted inside of the box. Without hearing it for myself, the best guess I can give you is just from my own experience and I am going to say you were playing too far out of tuning and that caused the sound. If you want to play down to 25hz, then you need to tune the box that low. I wouldnt play the same songs just to see what happens, play regular,unboosted, music that doesnt drop into the mid 20s and see if the sound goes away. This may also solve your smell issue. Well on non decaf songs the voltage is able to stay above 13.0V with the two batteries and 80A Alt. It's only when I play my decaf stuff is when the voltage would slowly drop to about 12.2V The sub sounds fine on normal songs. I'm contacting those HLabs guys to see if I've set my SSF correctly. The damn example in their manual shows the "Left High Section" but doesn't specify if I need to remove the pins from the "Right High Section" as well. Anyways, I'm setting it to 30Hz and testing it out again tomorrow and making a vid. I'm just relief to know that it's not tinsel slap problem and that my spider is still intact. Anyone here good at reading manuals? http://www.hlabs.com...HPSUB/index.htm Edited September 15, 2012 by moh.vze.com Quote DC Audio - Singer Alternators - Knukonceptz - XS Power - Hybrid Audio - Rockford Fosgate - Second Skin Audio - SMD - Sundown Audio - Elemental Designs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corona_jeff Posted September 15, 2012 Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 It also takes some time to break those subs in. Judging bynyounpushing on them the still pretty stiff. I was using 2x the power on my Xls and it took 2-3 weeks of hard play time to really break them in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corona_jeff Posted September 15, 2012 Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 Also try using the crossover section on the amp and stop using the hlab stuff. I'm leaning more towards tht eing problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ballen194 Posted September 15, 2012 Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 Are you 100% positive your not just hearing something rattling from your car? Quote 98 Isuzu Rodeo Pioneer Deh-6300ub SUBS*Upcoming* SSA Xcon 18 4th order AMP Banda 3500 Mids/Highs Pioneer EQ Clarion EQS746 ETC. Two 1/0 run's KnuKoncepts 1/0 big 3 Shuriken BT-100 under the hood Shuriken BT-120 in the back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moh.vze.com Posted September 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 Also try using the crossover section on the amp and stop using the hlab stuff. I'm leaning more towards tht eing problem I was also thinking about removing that Hlab thing and using the amp's ssf. Is there a way to know the exact freq setpoint on amp with an oscope for tuning? I've been out of electronics school for 4 yrs and don't remember much. Quote DC Audio - Singer Alternators - Knukonceptz - XS Power - Hybrid Audio - Rockford Fosgate - Second Skin Audio - SMD - Sundown Audio - Elemental Designs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moh.vze.com Posted September 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 Are you 100% positive your not just hearing something rattling from your car? Lol. I was just thinking about that. I might have to investigate this too! Quote DC Audio - Singer Alternators - Knukonceptz - XS Power - Hybrid Audio - Rockford Fosgate - Second Skin Audio - SMD - Sundown Audio - Elemental Designs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ18 Posted September 15, 2012 Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 www.wccaraudio.com Buy yourself a dd1 and cc1 combo pack. Best investment you will make for yourself for car audio installs. I really wish people would just stop post random ass responses to your question without any prior knowledge of what is going on here. 1) If when you play normal music the sound goes away, then that tells you that you are playing too far out of tuning. Decaf stuff plays VERY low and that song particularly drops down into the 22-25hz range I believe. 2) New subs take quite awhile to break in. What happens, is while the subs are still stiff, the spiders will not allow the coil to really get moving in the gap and cool properly. This causes the coil to sit in the gap and creates heat that causes the stinky smell. This is why you hear about a break-in period for subs. If you jsut rail on them right out of the box and dont break them in properly, you do run the risk of burning up the coil, or at least having a perma stinky smell until you recone the sub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted September 15, 2012 Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 I think I might have used my HP-SUB SSF wrong? can someone confirm? Here is the manual: http://www.hlabs.com...HPSUB/index.htm Looking directly at my HP-Sub SSF, I only have the top left pin taken out and I seem to have the right two jumper pins intact. Was I suppose to take that top right jumper out also to get "25Hz" filter? Was I only filtering 25Hz for the left channel and 20Hz for the right channel sub or something? no one answered this that i can tell so i will, and the answer is yes. You need to remove the jumpers for right and left sides. Quote Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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