Mazda 3 Trunk Build 153.9 dB 2 DC XL15's

[BassHead810]

While those were drying some more resin was applied to the box

Little cheat sheet I made up for each section of the box.

Port is coming together, these pieces are ready to be glued into one.

Am I crazy or does that spell JL

Or it could be an M

Now its starting to look like a port

Apply a liberal amount of glue lol

The pieces you see inside the cutout of the baffle will evetually be attached to the back of the port like a rear flare.

Rounded sub hole looks nice

[cjvue]

I need a saw like that... Every sheet i cut on mine is off slight and requires sanding FTL... Lol

Nice update though! I'm loving the pics of the build! Keep'm coming.

[taylorpro]

holy shit you guys had a lot of details in that box. awesome to see the work put in in the process you can't always see at the end. youd guys build some nice stuff for sure jordan. keep it up man. you guys are on the right track for sure

[BassHead810]

I need a saw like that... Every sheet i cut on mine is off slight and requires sanding FTL... Lol

Nice update though! I'm loving the pics of the build! Keep'm coming.

Thanks! Yeah that saw rocks. We used to use a p.o.s saw that took 5 minutes to set the fence for everycut and when your started it up the blade would wobble lol. This new saw easily cut the box build time in half if not more. I have lots more good pics I'll post later today

holy shit you guys had a lot of details in that box. awesome to see the work put in in the process you can't always see at the end. youd guys build some nice stuff for sure jordan. keep it up man. you guys are on the right track for sure.

Thanks alot Taylor. Yeah we spent alot of time on little details of this box. Maybe even too much time but hey it looks good. I even have a video I wanna post later too of some resin action

[Purplehaze]

Very nice work!

I'm tuned in!

[BassHead810]

I decided to smooth out the creases of the port with bondo before I router it. This was my first time using bondo and it didn't turn out as good as I had planned but it will be sanded and eventually painted over.

Bondo ready to be sanded

The port is going to be interchangeable. The port will be bolted to the faceplate underneath it and can be removed and replace with a lower tuned port which will be attached the same way. This means the holes better be pretty darn straight and accurate so I took the faceplate to the nearest drill press.

The faceplate will have T-nuts on the backside so that the holes dont get stripped out from repeated changes using wood screws. The T-nuts will be counter-bored into the surface about 1/8" so that they are definitely below the surface after I pound them in and this will also create a place for the resin to gather. The resin will help keep them from pushing out the back.

Here I am boring the hole for the T-nut using the milling machine at my work. Gotta love job perks

Bolted down with a few sockethead cap screws to test the fit.

Time to resin the back of the faceplate. I put the capscrews in the threads with teflon tape around them so that the resin doesnt get all through the T-nut.

After first coat and some sanding

All done with the faceplate

[Nikitaaa]

I love it!!! More pictures please

Edit- I just downloaded that "boom button app", any idea how loud those frequencies are? Like -3db, 0db, -20db? Lol

[BassHead810]

I love it!!! More pictures please

Edit- I just downloaded that "boom button app", any idea how loud those frequencies are? Like -3db, 0db, -20db? Lol

Thanks! No not exactly I just know they aren't as loud as the dB Jams Vol 14 CD which i think is 0 dB

[akronjay]

Pretty man looks sick great numbers

[SCS_Audio]

Lining up the woodgrain........worth at least a tenth of a db.