Herrie_V Posted January 28, 2013 Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 Schitterend allemaal! Great as always Rob! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robola 46 Posted February 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 I’m back in business! The goal now is to complete the entire sub-box. First off all, I sanded the aluminum parts, in which the cables run through, firmly, because I was going to polish them. I did the solid bar first, because I would take longer than the rest. First I sanded it with the machine, this with a 240. After that, with a wet 600, then 800 – 1200, and I stopped with a 2000. When I completed all of these steps, it was 2 hours later. To do this in a safe way, I screwed the ruler on a piece of wood. By doing this you exclude the possibility to burn your hands when holding the wood, and it’s almost impossible that your piece hits the brush. You can also see that I taped the plank with tape. I do this always so my brush isn’t full with wood splinters, and so you can’t make any scratches. As for the little parts, I needed to come up with something. And I found a simple way to fix this. The piece on the right needed polishing, and on the left you can see how I screwed it. Off course I also needed to go through all the sanding steps, but this went pretty easy. I placed this in my drill machine, and let it spin. So I just had to place the sanding paper against it, and keep it wet. On the right you can see the sanded piece. Then this had to get polished too, so I clammed a pliers on it. So you can hold the little piece against the brush in a safe way. On the left the result This was everything that needed to get polished for the subbox. For those who want to polish something, be carefull with this! And don’t use a big brush. If you have a descent motor (about 4hp), with a big brush, you have a fat chance that the piece will bite the brush pretty hard, and you’ll feel a big slap in your arms I also added some LED lights in the box. I also mounted the self-adhesive mousse, so the box will be tightly closed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarbonWarrior Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 Loving the install... just like your BMW. Cant wait to see the whole thing together. But, each little step along the way is like a tasty morsel to keep my attention. Love it. Again... We're not WORTHY!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notorious97200 Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 Hopefully, I saw the work on the Bimma. I would not believe this one is just for yor wife's car, a simple install. Congratulations. Fantastic work black BMW X1 2.0 l 192 hp OEM head unit, Amplifiers : Audison AP 8.9 amp with integrated DSP and Ampere Audio 1200. Focal ES 100 K in front doors, and Dayton RS 180 for midbass under the front seats. 2 SSA DEMONS 10" subs, in a 2.6 ft3 ported box. SecondSkin Damplifier on front doors, and Luxury Liner Pro for the cargo area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robola 46 Posted February 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 The first piece of the polo-ice, is ready, the sub box. yihaa About the connections, I’m very pleased I’ve done it like this... I thought everything will go much smoother by making this so, but you can forget it. I had a huge amount of work trying to mount it all nicely, and getting it all aligned. The O-rings are the finishing touch in my opinion. The cables were the things I had the most amount of work on. These need to be placed in the same line, and then again, have the same curve. To do this I made a couple of cardboard molds and checked for over 500 times if everything was correct. This was something people would have a comment on like “cool, but the cables are not all the same, and offcourse, I want to prevent that to happen in any way I spread the 4 connections over 3 days. I mean, when you checked something about 300, you make yourself crazy, and you don't see little errors anymore. The day after, you immediately see something appear, and the day after that you can make it for 100% perfect. You can judge yourself, but the picture doesn't give a perfect image, cause it wasn't possible with my camera to put they all in one row. When you look at the connection in the front, it seems like this is morde round than the other one, but that's not true. I'm pleased how it looks now, but I've put a lot of work in this little box. I added some lights too, and it sure looks nice (if I may say so myself), but I'm going to wait some more before posting this The subs are hooked on, and the next thing I'm going to do is to mount the box in the polo. The amplifier is going to be hooked on when it's mounted in the car. It will be much easier to work on. Up to the next.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robola 46 Posted February 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 bubbelpost Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stroupe79 Posted February 12, 2013 Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 Not needed here http://www.stevemead...cherokee-build/ 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Alpine CDE-hd148bt Alpine PKG-RSE2 PRV Audio (4) 6MB200 front/rear doors PRV Audio (4) TW350Ti dash/rear doors Kicker KX350.4 Obsidian Audio (1) 18 D4 v2 revamp (2) Stereo Integrity HT 18d2DC Audio 1.2k5.25ft^3 tuned @34hz revamp Infinite Baffle Cpillar AudioTechnix 60mil deadenerKnuKonceptz & SkyHigh wire (complete setup) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted February 13, 2013 Report Share Posted February 13, 2013 Let me be the first to say, since noone else has, you don't in any way shape or form EVER EVER EVER need to justify yourself to us! You're by far the best at the "details" in car audio, and there is no way justification is ever needed! You sir, are an absolute craftsman, and a genius! I love your work! Thank you for sharing it with us! That is all! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNichy Posted February 13, 2013 Report Share Posted February 13, 2013 Let me be the first to say, since noone else has, you don't in any way shape or form EVER EVER EVER need to justify yourself to us! You're by far the best at the "details" in car audio, and there is no way justification is ever needed! You sir, are an absolute craftsman, and a genius! I love your work! Thank you for sharing it with us! That is all! Very well said! Tuned in, feeling unworthy. 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee LimitedHU: Pioneer Premier DEH-P790btFront doors: JBL Gt series 6x9'sRear doors: StockSub Amp: DC Audio 3.5K Subs: 2 DC Audio lvl 4 12's with XL uprades and carbon fiber capsAlternator: Mechman 240 Wire: Wirez 1/0 awg OFC amp wire kit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicks Posted February 13, 2013 Report Share Posted February 13, 2013 Fantastic work as always! Your termination method for the speaker/sub wires is nothing short of stunning. Makes me kick myself that I didn't invest more time into something like this for my box... How about some more details on the polishing wheel, please? I tried to polish an aluminum bar that I bought and it was a disaster.... The pad either instantly shredded or melted to the bar and left a nasty mess. Or the polishing compound that I used would spray EVERYWHERE as soon as I spun the polishing pad/wheel. This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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