MarioB Posted February 5, 2014 Report Posted February 5, 2014 I love me a good ol trunk build... good job an this so far.. I know the amount of work needed for a trunk build. especially with 10lbs of shit in a 1lb bag 12- DC Audio m2Lvl3 12's1- Hertz HSK3 way2- DC5K's2- ZX350.42- Stinger SP1500D batteries in rear3- runs of 1/0ga. to the rearTeam DC Audiodcsoundlab.com Quality is all in how you take pictures I have plenty of projects that look WAY better on camera then in person crazy to fit so many in so little. Reminds me of some of the porns I've seen?
SLAYER1805 Posted February 5, 2014 Report Posted February 5, 2014 Read this on and off today all the way from the performance goodies to now. All I can say is the attention to detail is immaculate, can't wait to see this bish finished!
scooter99 Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Posted February 5, 2014 Thanks guys. Hi hear what you're saying Ross, I just hate doing things twice. If i do that, then I have to replace the 8ga, the terminals, and everything. I can't imagine it's that hard to heat it up with a soldering iron, melt the solder, and remove it, and then get new stuff to go on. My only concern, is the heat etc. Is it going to be an issue for anything? I don't know this. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
Wicks Posted February 5, 2014 Report Posted February 5, 2014 Thanks guys. Hi hear what you're saying Ross, I just hate doing things twice. If i do that, then I have to replace the 8ga, the terminals, and everything. I can't imagine it's that hard to heat it up with a soldering iron, melt the solder, and remove it, and then get new stuff to go on. My only concern, is the heat etc. Is it going to be an issue for anything? I don't know this. Yikes...I wouldn't mess with the leads attached to the tinsels. You'll need a massive soldering iron and run the risk of overheating something causing other issues. Maybe some sub-builders here could chime in, but I wouldn't try redo-ing the tinsel leads without some experience. I had the exact same issue with my subs (given, we very similar subs and box configuration) and I just bought some massive 8ga butt splices and crimped some extra 8ga on the direct leads to make them longer. No issues and my cables all measure out correctly with very little extra resistance. In the future I'll specify that the subs should get extra long direct leads because the usual ~12" of cable is too short and I really don't like the push-terminals. This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026
scooter99 Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Posted February 5, 2014 Yeah I think I have a way to do it and it'll look good. It's just part of my OCD. You know me! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
RossGo Posted February 5, 2014 Report Posted February 5, 2014 I understand the OCD part of it, trust me. Will you able to see the added wire through the plexi? Steve sent me the link to these a while back, when he used them for the Tercel http://www.parts-express.com/express-seal-(8-awg)-weatherproof-butt-splice-connector-5-pcs--095-916 Yes I have a lot of stereo weight. I build for Smiles Per Gallon not Miles Per Gallon LOLZ My build - 1996 4Runner with 2 18s - 149+ in a sealed box (with radiators)
scooter99 Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Posted February 5, 2014 Yes. Pretty much everything will be visible. Thanks for the link. I'll check it out when I get home. My thought is doing like you said with the copper crimp connectors. I'll heatshrink over those and then add techflex. If I get the connections up close to the terminal plates, then it should tie in well. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
n8ball2013 Posted February 5, 2014 Report Posted February 5, 2014 I would just solder the leads to a new length of wire and then tech flex the whole wire run smarter not harder. Plus redoing the tinsel and direct leads.scares the he'll out of me THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.
RossGo Posted February 5, 2014 Report Posted February 5, 2014 If you do techflex, I wouldn't even consider redoing the direct leads. Solder or crimp to proper length and wrap it all. A good crimp will be low profile and easily hidden under the wrap Yes I have a lot of stereo weight. I build for Smiles Per Gallon not Miles Per Gallon LOLZ My build - 1996 4Runner with 2 18s - 149+ in a sealed box (with radiators)
scooter99 Posted February 6, 2014 Author Report Posted February 6, 2014 Ok leads are done. I bit the bullet last night and just went out and took care of them. I'm not excited about the looks of it, but it's a solid connection and it'll work. I have techflex coming like I said, and I put some black on last night from some that I already have, and it doesn't look too bad at all. Can hardly tell it's there. But the other color will be the real test. Hopefully with as much that's going on in the flex colors, it'll take away from the small bumps that are there. I'll see about getting pics up tonight. No guarantees but I'll try. I have a question for you guys. If I'm using the 360, and it has a sub volume knob, should I even bother with the knobs for the 3500's that came with them? Just seems redundant to me to have them both. But I'm interested in what you all think. I'm also thinking about if I do need both knobs, then how would I connect both amps on one knob? I'm guessing a 2 to 1 splitter to plug into. I think I've seen them before. Something like this: http://www.tti.net/computer-telephony/phone-accessories.html Just things I'm thinking about while I sit at work. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
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