SixTwoRado Posted December 9, 2012 Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 Haha yah I wouldnt remove an engine block bolt. Damn that sucks you dont have anything. If you cant find anywhere to just dril straight through and use a nut and a bolt then maybe you could drill through and tap it out if your frame is thick enough? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlebuck1919 Posted December 9, 2012 Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 maybe use a bigger bolt that'll go through the frame from one side to another? if there isn't one that long, maybe try threaded rod? and use nuts and washers on both sides? and sand down to bare metal and all that stuff Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/152368-littlebuck1919s-feedback/#entry2177586 i think you'd stick your dick in a blender if it told you it was 40 wtih two kids your age. lol 6/18/82 - 4/17/12 R.I.P. to my sister Shana Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyG2 Posted December 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 Yeah, I'll just drill through both sides of the frame and use a long bolt. Thanks guys for the help! *New vehicle and system coming soon.* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicks Posted December 9, 2012 Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 Hey guys, I got almost everything for my big 3 done. I just got one step left, grounding to the frame. I went to my local Ace Hardware and asked for a self tapping bolt/some washers and a sheet metal bit. I drilled the hole, and started bolting down, but before I could even start torquing down the bolt it just started tearing apart the metal, and now I need to drill a new hole. Maybe I'm using the wrong kind of bolt? What's the best way to secure your ground to the frame? I already have the alt(+) - bat(+), and bat(-) to alt bracket done. This is my last step! Lol. #1 Do you have a dedicated ground line run to the amps? If so then that may be enough. #2 If your amp(s) are grounded to the frame then yes your front ground needs to be as solid as possible. I did one on mine and used a special automotive-threaded bolt from Lowes. I have a pic in my build log of the install but not directly of the bolt. It is a black plated bolt with a constant fine thread and a tapered tip which cleanly threads into a metal auto frame. This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyG2 Posted December 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 I'll look into that automotive bolt, if I can find it I'll use that, if not I'll have to bolt all the way through the frame. Thank you. *New vehicle and system coming soon.* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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