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Were you the guy with 6 SMDs in that sub up configuration on youtube?

If so, DAMN! I thought THAT set up was hardcore, and then you do THIS shit!

Lane AKA HeroKight

'96 Jeep Cherokee Classic 4x4

R.I.P. Molliboo

$200 for new tires, on a jeep!? Is she stealing them or building them with a heat gun and rubber bands?

You hear that????


That's a category 5 shit storm coming

n8: hey you doing today. What's it like being a bitch? you can pm me if you'd like to explain why you arent one. Just like you did for your vs threads.

^^^Rules. Follow them.^^^

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this is a very clean and organized install!!!!! awesome build and awesome equipment man!!! is the wall sealed off on the sides?

Thank Man, I still have a lot of finish work to do on this, and it is sealed off on the sides but it still needs a lot of attention down low, I still have dust and debris gettin' blown back on the amps, so I really gotta' get to work on that.

I should gain a few tenths...if I get off my ass and just DO IT ;)

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Besides for supporting 600lbs+ on the front baffle, and not flexing, what are the reasons for it being so thick? Ive heard in some cases it helps the woofers "feel" as if theyre in separate boxes. Any other reasons besides the obvious? Or is that it lol.

The main reason for the thick baffle is strength, the baffle cannot flex at all. Another reason, in my build was for tuning. My baffle IS the port.. it's same thickness as I needed to tune this build to 32 Hz. It's 8 1/4 inches thick (or the same as a 8 1/4 inch long port). I will be adding another layer on the baffle for a beauty board around the subs, I'm also gonna paint it up and clear it so it looks good and is nice and slick ;) Final tuning on this will end up being just under 32 Hz. And yes, the thick baffle does help the subwoofers with "loading" issues, with the thicker baffle you will have much better subwoofer cone control, the subs will have fewer "wierd interactions" with each other inside the enclosure if the baffle is as close to the hight of the basket as possible... (6" deep basket on sub = 5" or 6" thick baffle)

What I really didn't get enough pictures of, was the back wall. It's 2 layers of birch plywood, LOTS of 2x6's on end, and another layer of birch ply to finish it off. Everything was glued and screwed together...That back wall needs to be as strong OR stronger than the front baffle. To top all of that off, I used my 1" square tube welded together and nut & bolted through the sides of the enclosure, also 2 1/2" lag bolted to the front and rear baffles for strength front to rear.

Hopes this answers your question, and thanks again!!

Def answers my question, I appreciate it! I like how you made the baffle your port length to keep that from flexing as well.

Makes me want to wall off my Tahoe like yours ;) if I do I'll be sure to hit you up!

06 Police TahoeHU- Pioneer 80prsAmp- Crossfire 8kSub- 4 15" Crossfire xs v2sWire- 1/0 Knu/AudiotechnixAlt- 3 Mechman SMD 340sBatts- 6 XS Power 3100s, 2400

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Were you the guy with 6 SMDs in that sub up configuration on youtube?

If so, DAMN! I thought THAT set up was hardcore, and then you do THIS shit!

Yep that's me (rocketboy1000rr), and those are the exact same subs I ran with the "big box".

But now I can finally play the lows without the damn hatch fallin' off the Ho' ;)

It's waaay more violent in there now :)

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Besides for supporting 600lbs+ on the front baffle, and not flexing, what are the reasons for it being so thick? Ive heard in some cases it helps the woofers "feel" as if theyre in separate boxes. Any other reasons besides the obvious? Or is that it lol.

The main reason for the thick baffle is strength, the baffle cannot flex at all. Another reason, in my build was for tuning. My baffle IS the port.. it's same thickness as I needed to tune this build to 32 Hz. It's 8 1/4 inches thick (or the same as a 8 1/4 inch long port). I will be adding another layer on the baffle for a beauty board around the subs, I'm also gonna paint it up and clear it so it looks good and is nice and slick ;) Final tuning on this will end up being just under 32 Hz. And yes, the thick baffle does help the subwoofers with "loading" issues, with the thicker baffle you will have much better subwoofer cone control, the subs will have fewer "wierd interactions" with each other inside the enclosure if the baffle is as close to the hight of the basket as possible... (6" deep basket on sub = 5" or 6" thick baffle)

What I really didn't get enough pictures of, was the back wall. It's 2 layers of birch plywood, LOTS of 2x6's on end, and another layer of birch ply to finish it off. Everything was glued and screwed together...That back wall needs to be as strong OR stronger than the front baffle. To top all of that off, I used my 1" square tube welded together and nut & bolted through the sides of the enclosure, also 2 1/2" lag bolted to the front and rear baffles for strength front to rear.

Hopes this answers your question, and thanks again!!

Def answers my question, I appreciate it! I like how you made the baffle your port length to keep that from flexing as well.

Makes me want to wall off my Tahoe like yours ;) if I do I'll be sure to hit you up!

Anytime man, I had to figure out a LOT of things with this build, and get it done fast too. If you decide to wall, make sure to hit me up!!

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Finally man! That wall is crazy! I have seen a ton of your videos on youtube and I know you had always talked about it and now you have walled it! All I can say is dat baffle!

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Build quality goes without saying. lol

What im having trouble figuring out is the amplifier situation. I may have missed it, but do you just have the two pairs strapped running three subs per strapped pair?

On 6/30/2011 at 1:11 AM, 'Ray' said:

Acoustical energy is free. Electrical energy is not.

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