Jessica Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 The increased output of a HO alternator can burn up inferior stock wiring that was not designed to carry the increased flow of electricity. For your 700watt system that alt might be ok if you get it working properly. If you are trying to put any decent amp in that alt just wont cut it. Ebay alternators tend to replace some guts in the alt that give you a high end boost at the cost of low end output. Good thing it has a 30 day money back. Get your money and save up for a reputable alt. Thats my advice. Except the description on that alt says warranty items are exchanged minus a 20% restock fee and buyer pays return shipping. I agree, i wouldn't trust that alternator further than i could throw it. It might be a decent alt, it might do rated or close to it. But i wouldn't trust the build quality. Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryya Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 i start my car and my engine runs smooth for a second and then gradually starts shaking back and forth and starts making a knocking sound and gets worse and worse until it stalls.(no engine codes come up) i do not understand how the alternator change caused this!!!!!! I had the exact same symptoms when I replaced my alternator in my 03 jetta. What happened to me was the alternator positive went through the fuse box on top of my battery and the fuse box connected with a small wire to the battery. My fuse box melted a bit and (mostly) killed connection to my accessory power, causing my car to rev up and down over and over until it got hot and it would stall. This also destroyed my battery which I had to replace. I had to order a whole new oem fuse box from ebay. Maybe one of your factory fuses burned up or something? My Build Log - 2003 Volkswagen Jetta GLI VR6 2.8L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knubs Posted December 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 well there is no way i could spend $500 on an alternator like i've seen from most places. are there any ones that are cheaper that are still decent? and i am still not mechanically seeing how it is possible for an alternator good or bad to make my engine run this horrible. i dont think it is running on all cylinders and the engine literally shakes back and forth violently sometimes, but the idle doesnt really change. it is really low, but consistent. maybe Tarball might be right and the higher output could have fried some wiring? maybe i have a much bigger problem and i just got unlucky with the timing, but my car ran perfect before the alternator change. an odd situation i'd say... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 well there is no way i could spend $500 on an alternator like i've seen from most places. are there any ones that are cheaper that are still decent? and i am still not mechanically seeing how it is possible for an alternator good or bad to make my engine run this horrible. i dont think it is running on all cylinders and the engine literally shakes back and forth violently sometimes, but the idle doesnt really change. it is really low, but consistent. maybe Tarball might be right and the higher output could have fried some wiring? maybe i have a much bigger problem and i just got unlucky with the timing, but my car ran perfect before the alternator change. an odd situation i'd say... you get what you pay for. spend a dollar per amp, or god forbid less than that, and you'll end up with a shitty alt. two dollars per amp is more reasonable for a good quality alt. too much output doesn't fucking matter. the alt isnt outputting 200 amps or whatever all the time. its only outputting that when YOU tell it to. aka turning the stereo up, or producing a load, for example. compared to stock, the alt is outputting the same exact amount of power because the car is pulling only as much current as it needs to run. edit: plus everything and its mother is fused inside your car. its damn near impossible for a wire(s) to burn up without the fuse popping. just because your alternator outputs more power over stock, doesn't mean that the hvac blower motor that uses 10 amps of current, all of a sudden uses 20 amps. thats just...retarded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8ight Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 Voltage kills things, not amperage, why people do not understand I don't know. Not to be rude but it's the truth, as others have stated that is a cheap alternator. I got my DC Power Engineering 270 XP for $360 shipped used and it works just like a potent factory unit. I know why it was $500+ new. I'm gonna hate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 Money is Power Power = Money Money = Power No money = No Power CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 your alt didnt hurt anything unless the regulator is shot and caused your car to see 16 plus volts continously. You could have belt slip. You could have a bad alternator. Your battery resting voltage is horrible. 12.2 is not good at all. And there is no such as good for my battery. its not good period. That alt is probably the problem because its junk. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moh.vze.com Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 this guy explains some interesting stock wires that were connected to the positive part of your alternator that you removed. DC Audio - Singer Alternators - Knukonceptz - XS Power - Hybrid Audio - Rockford Fosgate - Second Skin Audio - SMD - Sundown Audio - Elemental Designs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knubs Posted December 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2012 well bash on my cheap alternator as you may, but it's still better than a stock alternator is it not? i'm only going to be running one DC xl 15". i will upgrade and get a dc alt after i upgrade my car. as it is i'm already spending more on the sound system than what my car is worth! also i solved the problem. it turned out to be a vacuum leak...apparently when i pulled my old alternator out i broke a vacuum line. i replaced that and we are good to go. and just fyi, yes, the old power wire is hooked up now. Thanks everyone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRTC360 Posted December 25, 2012 Report Share Posted December 25, 2012 although your stock alt may not put out as much amperage as your new alt says it does, the stock alt is still a better quality alt than that ebay alt, look into DC power, excessive amperage, powermaster, ohio gen, singer, tenney, mechman, see which company suits your budget better. '93 Firebird Formula V8 H/U- Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X395 Mids/Highs Amp- Hifonics ZXI80.4 Wiring-KNU RCA's, Speaker Wire, And Two Runs Of Trystar 1/0 G34 Red Top and a 180amp Ford Alternator www.youtube.com/TRTC360 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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