Jump to content
Second Skin Audio

Water Cooled Subs (Bazooka Tri Vent)


Fast Company

Recommended Posts

i remember when Bazooka came out with those. Thats about the same time Kicker did the L7 and Xtant did the hexagons. Those things look awesome though! i saw a wall of them somewhere on the net one time, was really cool because it looked like there was no spaces between the subs cause they fit together so tightly. I agree the CHILL thing looks cool( especially with the help of some LED's placed in the right places) but for the subs i cant see any gains, but the amps that would probably help quite a bit i would think. From what i have seen Bazooka made some good quality amps also.

2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What i've been wondering is has anyone ever installed a refrigeration unit in their vehicle and ran cooling lines around the subs and or amplifiers? I could see this being usefull in bass drags

Some guys in Australia were cooling a sub with dry ice (solidified CO2) before runs.

Its an interesting idea but unfortunately changes the density of the air in the enclosure with how they were doing it, which not only hurt their score but is probably against the rules some way or another around these parts.

Here's a link to one of the videos:

edit

Found the video I was looking for that I had seen years ago.. this one they use Nitrious Oxide to cool the sub.

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

these are really old. I think i was in high school at the time it came out. Im surprised you found any in working order.

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What i've been wondering is has anyone ever installed a refrigeration unit in their vehicle and ran cooling lines around the subs and or amplifiers? I could see this being usefull in bass drags

Refrigeration includes a lot of condensation, not exactly ideal for electronics :(

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It would be no different than water cooling your computer. On the amp side anyway. There are plenty of guides on using a window ac unit to create a super chilled setup. You use play doe etc to prevent condinsation on the mobo. Hell real extereme people use liquid nitrogen. Then there's TECs but it would all have to be custom made to fit an amp. At temps Waaaay below freezing you could prolly keep the coil cold even through the motor but.. that's all theorhetical it'd be alot of work and the amount of juice it'd take to run a mobile ac unit would detract from your amps power so it wouldn't be very efficient..

I'll have to google it though. Interesting sounding subs :P

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Only way to keep the coil cold in traditional style motor structures is to inject cooled air into the gap, which is rather inefficient as its just like air cooling but using cooler air. Cooling the magnet will only protect the magnetic field (hot magnets lose field strength).

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1156 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...