how many dbs

[bassfreake]

Low 20s

In the low 20hz range

I totally originally got 15s because I thought I wanted something that could hit sub human hearing frequencies lol (mainly because I read that once you get around I think it was 5 or so Hz below the range humans can hear you don't need to hear it cuz you can feel the vibrations in your body and I'm a little weird like that I thought that sounded kinda cool and wanted to see if it was true lol) but I discovered after the fact that having something that can do that doesn't really do you any good unless you can also manufacture a chunk of music that actually puts out sub human hearing frequencies... lol and since I don't have that technology there was really no point in that

[AMI CUSTOMS]

On thing to realize is those efficiency rating are in free air environment. SO when a woofer is placed into an enclosure it gains just 3 db from free air by what you are saying. I don't think so at all, actually I know it doesn't It gains much much more!!!!

And on 2 12s and 3500 if you aren't doing 55s, you fail. HA

[bassfreake]

On thing to realize is those efficiency rating are in free air environment. SO when a woofer is placed into an enclosure it gains just 3 db from free air by what you are saying. I don't think so at all, actually I know it doesn't It gains much much more!!!!

And on 2 12s and 3500 if you aren't doing 55s, you fail. HA

lol sounds good to me :-) wouldn't mind actually testing what my current setup does once I get power back to it too

[RooTxBeeR]

On thing to realize is those efficiency rating are in free air environment. SO when a woofer is placed into an enclosure it gains just 3 db from free air by what you are saying. I don't think so at all, actually I know it doesn't It gains much much more!!!!

And on 2 12s and 3500 if you aren't doing 55s, you fail. HA

2 12's, 3500W and a 55. At what freq do you speak of though? When I go to do 2 12's I would love to try and get as loud as a possibly can around 30hz.

[__d_a_v_i_d__]

Low 140s

you would have to be doing something really wrong to only get low 40's with almost 4k lol. i did a 41.9 on 1200w (not clamped) with the box facing in the wrong direction, with the rear seats up.

Mid 40s seems correct . That's sealed up on the dash ofcourse .

I also did high 30slow 40s on 1600 hifonics. (Single 12" prefab box)

But did mid 40s on 3k. (2 10s)

Sealed up score ratings

140-144 is a good trunk score

145-149 is a great trunk score !

150+ is an amazing trunk score!

Gotta understand that moving meter to kick to dash is usually -3db. Windows down usually +2. Gotta understand cabin gain , cabin resonant is higher on some cars..

Gotta understand that every single DB 145 n up are wayyyyy harder then 35 n up ..

Even a 145 in one car can sound way louder than a 145 in a other car...

Lower hz scores are more impressive ..

Bunch of shit ..

Which is why I enjoy a loud groundpounding hair tricking demo machine .

[HHR Ed]

So i just read this page that explained subwoofer db ratings as:

1w @ 1m = sensitivity of sub

Each double of power after that = 3db

Each double of cone area = 3db

Proper box = 3db

3500

But by doing the math there if that's right then that would make for instance a, pair of HDC312s on a Q1-3500 top out if you're getting all the power from the amp possible in a perfect box and everything at about 127 ish db... And idk for sure cuz i never got it rested but I'm pretty sure when my audio pipe stuff where i was running 1800w rated was actually working I'm pretty sure even that coulda topped 130db or so...

You can never go by that.

1st is that the 1w/1m test does not tell you anything about how loud a woofer will actually play.

2nd. Under higher power there is something called "Compression" This makes it harder to get louder, the higher you go.

3rd. There is the law of diminishing returns. Just as with car speed. To go from 0-50mph takes little horsepower. But to go from 150-200mph takes a ton of hp.

4th. You have unpredictable conditions, i.e. car's interior shape, car's structural integrity, Box design, signal quality, etc.....

So, nobody can tell you how loud you might get with anything. Anyone that gives you a number is guessing. The only way to tell is to try it.

[Quiet]

Don't trust specs either. Some Most exaggerate one way or another since it's logical for a nooB to compare and maybe have an edge on marketing. Then there's different methods of measuring these specs, 1w/1m, 2.83v/1m, Xmax¹⁰ vs Xmax and on and on and on.

Cabin gain is something that is subjective, but none the less definitely adds to your "calculations". You're not far off, in a perfect world DBs could be calculated, but for all that's involved for you to measure it would definitely take all the fun out of it.

Oh and think of cabin gain like this... your calculations would be right on in an anechoic room (think of a huge room with sound absorbing foam on every wall and floor). Bass will be going in all directions, up, down, left, right, forward, and behind. Cabin gain is a function of all of that musical energy being channeled in one direction, concentrating it. It's good for 20-30db extra, depending on your car.

[AMI CUSTOMS]

Cabin gain will also tend to raise your peak freq from tuning of the enclosure.