P4killer_ Posted February 7, 2013 Report Share Posted February 7, 2013 been working on the cooling system for awhie so ill just give the history -------------------- Car wasnt wamring up very well, very poorly actually. Noticed coolant leaking out, when ever I moved from the parking spot. Used some liquid aluminum stop leak stuff. Leak went away. Cooling system still wasnt right, took along time to heat up. Never said low coolant, but really no heat at all.. drove it like that for ohhh about a year. Recently got sick of no heat and low coolant light came on, at first only for a few minutes, but then started staying on for long periods of time before going out. Temp gauge would read half way in the middle of winter, freezing cold air coming out. Replaced t-stat. Still no heat. There has always been a "howling noise" coming from the pulley side of the engine. After reading in the haynes manual, decided the sound was the water pump. Replaced the water pump. Heat works awesome now, however I noticed the overflow tank level never changes and the upper rad hose collapses.. Cleaned out Overflow tank and Replaced Rad. Cap. ----------------- Thats leads us to today. Heat is working very well. Coolant tank is working good, upper hose no longer collapses. No low coolant lights. However I did notice the coolant level dropped quite a bit. I figured the coolant system is just balancing out. Added coolant to the cold level. I have been smelling like burnt coolant in the cabin every so often, checked it out. there was steam coming from the radiator/ upper hose area. Not alot just like fumes, but there was also coolant pools albeit small ones on the battery. So I know theres a leak. I checked the overflow tank and sure enough, it dropped quite a bit. I added more coolant accordingly. Drove to work, no issues, lights etc. Checked and no steam or anything. Drove home from work, Heat was f'ing blazin so thats good, again no steam or anything. I took out a flashlight, and noticed a small crack in the Rad, I believe its the plastic part. Its at the top of the rad next to the upper hose connection I could see a very small about of bubbling.. It looks small enough that I could patch it with something and itll be ok. I would like some opinions, etc please. And after spending 7 hours in 1* weather changing the water pump, I dont exactly want to change the rad right now.. Pix: There is some scraping in this pic, I was scratching it to see if it was plastic or not. plastic i believe Sorry for the long drawn out post. And thanks in advance Setup: 2010 Hyundai Elantra Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000 Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of - DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big-A Posted February 7, 2013 Report Share Posted February 7, 2013 Scuff it up good with some sand paper and clean it. Then put some JB weld on there. 2004 Dodge Ram Head unit- Alpine iDA-x305s Sound processor- Clarion eqs746 Mids/Highs amp- Alpine MRV-F345 Sub Amp- Alpine MRD-M1005 Dash Speakers- (3) Dayton Audio rs75 Front Door- Skar SPX65c Rear fill- Skar SPX tweters and Dayton ND140 midbass Sub- Fi Audio SSD 15 high QTS SHCA power/ground cables and Stinger interconnect XS power D6500 under the hood and D680 in the amp rack Big 3+ with SHCA http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161174-dodge-ram-quad-cab-fi-ssd15-skar-audio-alpine-shca/?p=2326251 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P4killer_ Posted February 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2013 Yea thats what I kept coming across, but I Read it wont work too well because its plastic and not metal. Never used JB so idk Setup: 2010 Hyundai Elantra Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000 Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of - DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big-A Posted February 7, 2013 Report Share Posted February 7, 2013 Im pretty sure they make JB weld for any application. check them out. http://www.jbweld.com/products/surface-applications/automotive/ 2004 Dodge Ram Head unit- Alpine iDA-x305s Sound processor- Clarion eqs746 Mids/Highs amp- Alpine MRV-F345 Sub Amp- Alpine MRD-M1005 Dash Speakers- (3) Dayton Audio rs75 Front Door- Skar SPX65c Rear fill- Skar SPX tweters and Dayton ND140 midbass Sub- Fi Audio SSD 15 high QTS SHCA power/ground cables and Stinger interconnect XS power D6500 under the hood and D680 in the amp rack Big 3+ with SHCA http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161174-dodge-ram-quad-cab-fi-ssd15-skar-audio-alpine-shca/?p=2326251 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MIKE-2U Posted February 7, 2013 Report Share Posted February 7, 2013 I only read your title. But with the rads i had like that i broyght them to a special shop, they welded it if youbwould and cleaned it out and pressureized it. I had the whole side of a rad cracked before and they fixed it. Look for a local one or pm me and i can get ypu the one in Mn 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee LaredoPioneer AVH- 3200DVD2/0 Flex-A-Prene Welding Cable (2) Fully Loaded Fi Sp4's dual 1-------> My YouTube Channel <------- Needs more power those woofers will laugh at that turd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85buickrivi Posted February 7, 2013 Report Share Posted February 7, 2013 they have a plastic 2 part epoxy high temp try that out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted February 7, 2013 Report Share Posted February 7, 2013 Weld shop, and show them the cracks. They will BRAZE it. done...... EDIT- crack 3 eggs in it.. kisses SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big-A Posted February 7, 2013 Report Share Posted February 7, 2013 Weld shop, and show them the cracks. They will BRAZE it. done...... EDIT- crack 3 eggs in it.. kisses He said this is one with plastic end caps. Last one that was plastic that went bad they told me no fixing it unless i had the hole end replaced and after doing that I was better off buying a new one. 2004 Dodge Ram Head unit- Alpine iDA-x305s Sound processor- Clarion eqs746 Mids/Highs amp- Alpine MRV-F345 Sub Amp- Alpine MRD-M1005 Dash Speakers- (3) Dayton Audio rs75 Front Door- Skar SPX65c Rear fill- Skar SPX tweters and Dayton ND140 midbass Sub- Fi Audio SSD 15 high QTS SHCA power/ground cables and Stinger interconnect XS power D6500 under the hood and D680 in the amp rack Big 3+ with SHCA http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161174-dodge-ram-quad-cab-fi-ssd15-skar-audio-alpine-shca/?p=2326251 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToNasty Posted February 7, 2013 Report Share Posted February 7, 2013 Tooth picks. Stick a few in the hole, start the vehicle and tjey will.expand sealing.g.the hole ***Super Sellers List***http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/25829-super-sellers-buyers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reg93f150 Posted February 7, 2013 Report Share Posted February 7, 2013 Buy a new radiator Unless its a vehicle you don't care about, its not worth letting that stuff get into your internals imo.. its $150 for a new radiator or $$$$ for a new motor.. just imo though, we've used the radiator sealant stuff on ranch and mud trucks n stuff like that but I wouldn't trust it on your DD or something you like ALL CREDIT TO XX1 FOR DC BANNER down rpping vanderbilt. 30 miles from victoria. i own the 3rd loudest setup here out of 3. but i did put together all 3 setups strapping 2 amps together ? like bolting them next together? using bungy cables to hold them down? or wiring separate amps to each sub Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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