audiofanaticz Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 Lets say you got 1 alternator, and you want to run at 16.5 volts, but most of the vehicles accessories will not handle that high of voltage and most likely either will your remote on your amp. So I need the car to run at around 14.4 and amps at 16.5... So what is going to be the easiest way to accomplish this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricM9104 Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 Uhh, no clue. What I would do though is, run a smaller alternator for the cars electrical (14.4v) and a second alternator running at 16.5v that runs to another set of batteries seperate from the vehicles main charging system. 2015 Honda Civic LX 4dr | 24k miles Stock H/U and mids/highs Power Acoustik GW3-12" D2 Sub HiFonics BXX1200.1D @ 1ohm Random 2.5^3' dual ported box NVX LOC Stinger wiring throughout 1977 Chevy SWB Cammed 350 Dual exhaust Cheap Wish stereo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fourlug Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 Separate electrical system for the stereo. You will NEED two alts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted February 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 spl2k i see you looking! I cant run a 2nd alt in my situation unless Id lose my a/c. Cant lose my a/c because then I may lose my heat since its all digital. I had an idea of running my car off a 12 volt battery for the short time needed to do a bassrace run, and run only my rear batts and amps off 16volt, while my car is all 12volt including my headunit. But I heard your amps positive, and remote must be off the same electrical system. If thats true the amps wont turn on, unless you ran your remote of your 16 volt setup and Im not sure how much the remote turn on can handle for voltage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmanson Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 if you don't mind me asking ...... what amps are you trying to run? 2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s 1-DC 5K amp (1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR) 3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative. (2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear) Audiocontrol 3.1. DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banginAltima Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 you need a setup down transformer. Can find this at an electrical supply store. You might be better off using a stock alt. and then getting a step up transformer. that way you can use it only when you need it, instead of it being used all the time. If you build it, db's will come... NSPL World Record Holder Trunk 0-1800 watts---147.9 with 1722 clamped watts @ 40Hz(9-20-09). Competition Only Record Holder Trunk 0-500 watts---148.1 2006 Nissan Altima 3.5 SE Currently Rebuilding.... My 150db Plus Trunk Build I do box designs. [benH] 6:24 pm: clipping doesn't really hurt subs [benH] 6:24 pm: being an idiot is what blows subs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted February 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2008 you need a setup down transformer. Can find this at an electrical supply store. You might be better off using a stock alt. and then getting a step up transformer. that way you can use it only when you need it, instead of it being used all the time. I will have a "step up transformer" soon. Its called a voltage regulator which will allow me to run 13.7 volts up too 21 volts. I plan to run at 16-16.5 volts DAILY but need a way to step that voltage down to something that will not mess with my cars computer. I plan to run seperate runs from my alt to rear battery bank, as well as a seperate wire from my alt to front battery. The front and rear batteries will be isolated from each other, so no stereo draw from my starter battery. I knew it could be done but how I was not sure of, Ive heard it done before by the pros I plan to run 1 or 2 step down regulators on the single wire from my alt to front battery keeping the voltage around 14.5 (depending on how much current draw can be passed through them). I found one stepdown regulator made by TurboStart for $75, but it only allows 15 amps continuous or 100 amps peak for 60 seconds, so If I went with this one, id need a few at least. http://www.turbostart.com/product.aspx?id=416&cid=15 But then just doing some more browsing and I found some powermaster stepdown regulators but are Rated 50 amps at 50% duty cycle and 25 amps continuous. http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product...0000917/c-10101 But someone has to make a bigger one that allows more current right or not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sactownstang Posted February 10, 2008 Report Share Posted February 10, 2008 get a battery with a 12v post or a step down regulator like powermasters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TechSys Posted February 10, 2008 Report Share Posted February 10, 2008 If I'm reading the first post correct, look for a dual voltage alternator that'll output both 12volt and 16volt at the same time. Not sure if one would be available for your vehicle though. Team Pinnacle / Team SouthEastSPL / Team SoundStream / Team GPI / GPI Sales Rep for Florida and Georgia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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