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Captain Stupid

DC Power 270a Only Making [email protected] On Escalade

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Also, just curious what impedance is the amp wired at?

I see in his sig that he has ran it both at .5 and .25 with other woofers, and thats pretty stressful on a RF amp..

For all we know the components inside could be somewhat worn and are starting to give out. Just a possibility..

If you both have 270xp alts, why dont you swap your alt into his ride and retest and see if your alt clamps the same as his alt in his vehicle. because you sure cant compare 2 different vehicles charging systems just because they have the same alt. Just like you cant compare a pair of 12s in a trunk to a pair of 10s in the hatch, then wonder why the 10s in the hatch are louder then the 12s in the trunk...

As said, my voltage drop was bad, and I have 3 alts.

I had missmatched wiring that was all pretty much scrap wiring not being used. none of its lengths, brands, matched. some was ofc some was cca.

I had two old batteries, one of which leaks acid, and a old c&d which I got from my dads factory that I brought back to life.

You can watch my voltage start around 14.5, then down to 12.4ish, then the 11.9 11.8 and so on as my reserve was being used up.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BUIx44_NLcY


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To add to what Chris said, the system had a 200a fuse on the positive line between the battery and amp and it never blew in six months time. Not once, and I drive around at full volume a lot. Today, that fuse finally blew when I revved the engine to 4500rpm with the stereo cranked at full volume. So, it is reasonable to assume that the alt has never put more than 200 amps of current through the line from the battery to the amp in six months. Surely in six months time, that system should have at some point, pushed more than 200 amps of power to a t2500bdcp at full volume if the alt was working properly.

What it boils down to, is that if the alt was working properly, either the amp would not be going into protect after 20 seconds at full volume, or the fuse would have blown long ago.

No, what it boils down to...

You said its between your battery and amp. that means your AMP has never drawn over 200 amps....

Now if you had the fuse between your battery and your alt, then your amp has never given out more then too amps....

So with your statement, you just said you have a an amp that does not draw no more then 200 amps, and wonder why your alt only produces only 170 amps of current......

You seriously just answered your own question....

Not to mention as i said before, that the battery is buffing the current demand.

PS: a fuse that is rated at lets say 200amps, will not blow if 201 amps go thru the fuse.

You can put 250amps thru that fuse, and it still may not blow!

Over time of running more then its rated amperage thru that fuse it will weaken and one day finally pop.

Also its worth mentioning that every fuse made by every manufacture all will have slightly difference amperage variances even tho they all say 200 amps. some may handle up to 300 amps of current for a short period of time, where as others may blow at 180 amps of current.


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To add to what Chris said, the system had a 200a fuse on the positive line between the battery and amp and it never blew in six months time. Not once, and I drive around at full volume a lot. Today, that fuse finally blew when I revved the engine to 4500rpm with the stereo cranked at full volume. So, it is reasonable to assume that the alt has never put more than 200 amps of current through the line from the battery to the amp in six months. Surely in six months time, that system should have at some point, pushed more than 200 amps of power to a t2500bdcp at full volume if the alt was working properly.

What it boils down to, is that if the alt was working properly, either the amp would not be going into protect after 20 seconds at full volume, or the fuse would have blown long ago.

No, what it boils down to...

You said its between your battery and amp. that means your AMP has never drawn over 200 amps....

Now if you had the fuse between your battery and your alt, then your amp has never given out more then too amps....

So with your statement, you just said you have a an amp that does not draw no more then 200 amps, and wonder why your alt only produces only 170 amps of current......

You seriously just answered your own question....

Not to mention as i said before, that the battery is buffing the current demand.

PS: a fuse that is rated at lets say 200amps, will not blow if 201 amps go thru the fuse.

You can put 250amps thru that fuse, and it still may not blow!

Over time of running more then its rated amperage thru that fuse it will weaken and one day finally pop.

Also its worth mentioning that every fuse made by every manufacture all will have slightly difference amperage variances even tho they all say 200 amps. some may handle up to 300 amps of current for a short period of time, where as others may blow at 180 amps of current.

I don't know why you feel the need to come in here and talk down to people. We aren't all idiots and you aren't the only smart one. You haven't offered any solutions other than trying to shoot holes in the testing we have done. You seriously need to find somewhere else to be a dick before you really piss me off. If you aren't helping, and don't have a clue what the solution is, does it make you feel better to show everyone how smart you are by talking down to them?


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148.8 @ 36hz, Termlab, dash, open window on one AQ3 18 all stock electrical, wired to .5 ohm on a RF T2500

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To add to what Chris said, the system had a 200a fuse on the positive line between the battery and amp and it never blew in six months time. Not once, and I drive around at full volume a lot. Today, that fuse finally blew when I revved the engine to 4500rpm with the stereo cranked at full volume. So, it is reasonable to assume that the alt has never put more than 200 amps of current through the line from the battery to the amp in six months. Surely in six months time, that system should have at some point, pushed more than 200 amps of power to a t2500bdcp at full volume if the alt was working properly.

What it boils down to, is that if the alt was working properly, either the amp would not be going into protect after 20 seconds at full volume, or the fuse would have blown long ago.

No, what it boils down to...

You said its between your battery and amp. that means your AMP has never drawn over 200 amps....

Now if you had the fuse between your battery and your alt, then your amp has never given out more then too amps....

So with your statement, you just said you have a an amp that does not draw no more then 200 amps, and wonder why your alt only produces only 170 amps of current......

You seriously just answered your own question....

Not to mention as i said before, that the battery is buffing the current demand.

PS: a fuse that is rated at lets say 200amps, will not blow if 201 amps go thru the fuse.

You can put 250amps thru that fuse, and it still may not blow!

Over time of running more then its rated amperage thru that fuse it will weaken and one day finally pop.

Also its worth mentioning that every fuse made by every manufacture all will have slightly difference amperage variances even tho they all say 200 amps. some may handle up to 300 amps of current for a short period of time, where as others may blow at 180 amps of current.

I don't know why you feel the need to come in here and talk down to people. We aren't all idiots and you aren't the only smart one. You haven't offered any solutions other than trying to shoot holes in the testing we have done. You seriously need to find somewhere else to be a dick before you really piss me off. If you aren't helping, and don't have a clue what the solution is, does it make you feel better to show everyone how smart you are by talking down to them?

:popcorn:


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2016 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem/2nd Adv 4/2nd Xtreme 4
2015 MWSPL 2nd place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4
2014 USACI 2nd place Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db
2014 MWSPL 2nd place Xtreme 4 - 144.9 db
2013 USACI 1st place Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db
2013 USACI 1st place Street Q+ - 162.8 db
2013 MWSPL 3rd Kaos2 & 4th Xtreme 4
2011 USACI 2nd place MOD 1001-2k - 160.0 db
2011 MWSPL 4th place: Adv3 - 157.8 db, Kaos2 - 150s db, Xtreme4 - 140s db
2010 ARSPL 1st place 501-750 - 160.3 db Arkansas loudest

Best score to date 164.4 db - Termlab Outlaw

Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db

Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db

MWSPL on Dash Legal door open (Music) - 162.5 db

Sealed on dash Legal (Music) - 161.1 db - Termlab

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Also, just curious what impedance is the amp wired at?

I see in his sig that he has ran it both at .5 and .25 with other woofers, and thats pretty stressful on a RF amp..

For all we know the components inside could be somewhat worn and are starting to give out. Just a possibility..

If you both have 270xp alts, why dont you swap your alt into his ride and retest and see if your alt clamps the same as his alt in his vehicle. because you sure cant compare 2 different vehicles charging systems just because they have the same alt. Just like you cant compare a pair of 12s in a trunk to a pair of 10s in the hatch, then wonder why the 10s in the hatch are louder then the 12s in the trunk...

As said, my voltage drop was bad, and I have 3 alts.

I had missmatched wiring that was all pretty much scrap wiring not being used. none of its lengths, brands, matched. some was ofc some was cca.

I had two old batteries, one of which leaks acid, and a old c&d which I got from my dads factory that I brought back to life.

You can watch my voltage start around 14.5, then down to 12.4ish, then the 11.9 11.8 and so on as my reserve was being used up.

Same alt, but different mounting bracket lol. Otherwise we would. And his allt is brand new - like a month old. Still shiny ;)

What you see in the sig was with different woofers at a competition doing burps only. Daily he runs at 1 ohm

This is just a really baffling issue since myself and other friends don't have to drop low to get power from the alt. We can play all day above 14v

I feel like we are going in circles lol... My experience has been that the alt will put out more power to keep the same voltage as the load increases up until the demand exceeds what the alt can supply. Then you drop into battery voltage. It's a 270a alt and we shouldn't have to drop voltage really bad to get power from it. 180a at 12v is pretty weak.

Greg is the only one who seems to be the one having these issues, hence why we are trying to figure it out. And I would delve more into it myself, but he doesn't live terribly close by, so it's tough to do a bunch of different things out on a whim.

I can't comment why yours and my experiences differ so much, but where I am and what I've seen: this is definitely not the norm and we are struggling to get this figured out since right now: the DC alt isn't faring too much better than his stock one in terms of performance

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I don't know why you feel the need to come in here and talk down to people. We aren't all idiots and you aren't the only smart one. You haven't offered any solutions other than trying to shoot holes in the testing we have done. You seriously need to find somewhere else to be a dick before you really piss me off. If you aren't helping, and don't have a clue what the solution is, does it make you feel better to show everyone how smart you are by talking down to them?

I didnt talk down to anyone, your the one getting offended because you havent realized your own flaw...

Your power wire from your front battery to your amp has a 200amp fuse. Your amp is a rf2500bdcp.

You have a 270amp alternator. along with a huge battery under the hood.

Your

not exceeding the rating limit of your 200 amp fuse, meaning your not

making your alternator have a reason to produce more then the 170amps of

current it has clamped at...

Your alternator is not going to make 270 amps 24/7 if it has no need too.

Sorry this is too hard for you to understand.........


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So Brian if you're going to defend dc power so much, then maybe you can answer his MAIN QUESTION as to why his alternator isn't producing 270 amps like its claimed.

This post isn't about how much amperage his amp draws, or how sturdy a fuse is, so please enlighten us. Since they clamped the alt and didn't see 270 amps.


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Since I posted I will try to help. What does the alt(current) and voltage do with everything on, high beams, AC on max, emergency flashers, and system full tilt with a 15 sec sine wave playing at idle and then at 2000k engine rpm?

Answer that and you will have your answer regardless of wiring and fusing. :)


TEAM SOUNDQUBED -- TEAM SOUTH

TEAM S.O.B. - Founder & Captain

3x Streetbeat World Record Holder

2017 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4 
2016 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem/2nd Adv 4/2nd Xtreme 4
2015 MWSPL 2nd place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4
2014 USACI 2nd place Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db
2014 MWSPL 2nd place Xtreme 4 - 144.9 db
2013 USACI 1st place Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db
2013 USACI 1st place Street Q+ - 162.8 db
2013 MWSPL 3rd Kaos2 & 4th Xtreme 4
2011 USACI 2nd place MOD 1001-2k - 160.0 db
2011 MWSPL 4th place: Adv3 - 157.8 db, Kaos2 - 150s db, Xtreme4 - 140s db
2010 ARSPL 1st place 501-750 - 160.3 db Arkansas loudest

Best score to date 164.4 db - Termlab Outlaw

Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db

Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db

MWSPL on Dash Legal door open (Music) - 162.5 db

Sealed on dash Legal (Music) - 161.1 db - Termlab

THE BLACK NASTY CURRENT BUILD & FAB

The Black Nasty (6) 15 Rebuild Log 2012

(4) 15 Walled Sierra Build Log

Evo X build log

Facebook page The Black Nasty

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So Brian if you're going to defend dc power so much, then maybe you can answer his MAIN QUESTION as to why his alternator isn't producing 270 amps like its claimed.

This post isn't about how much amperage his amp draws, or how sturdy a fuse is, so please enlighten us. Since they clamped the alt and didn't see 270 amps.

Because if you read the information he posted...

He has a 200amp fuse between his d3100 battery which is under the hood and the amp.

He is not really exceeding the limitations of that 200amp fuse, which is why it lasted so long before finally blowing.

An alternator is not going to make 270amps of current, if there is no load worth of 270amps since the amp is drawing ruffly 200amps of current.

which I already stated......


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So Brian if you're going to defend dc power so much, then maybe you can answer his MAIN QUESTION as to why his alternator isn't producing 270 amps like its claimed.

This post isn't about how much amperage his amp draws, or how sturdy a fuse is, so please enlighten us. Since they clamped the alt and didn't see 270 amps.

Because if you read the information he posted...

He has a 200amp fuse between his d3100 battery which is under the hood and the amp.

He is not really exceeding the limitations of that 200amp fuse, which is why it lasted so long before finally blowing.

An alternator is not going to make 270amps of current, if there is no load worth of 270amps since the amp is drawing ruffly 200amps of current.

which I already stated......

You also said the fuse can exceed the amount of power and not blow, and that some 200a fuses are closer to 300a.

Plus that still doesn't explain why the voltage is so low. If it was putting out 170a and keeping the voltage up that's one thing. But it's putting out less than rated power and the voltage is falling flat on it's face :(

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