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Figured I'd chime in as well. Been eyeballing all the progress that has been made so far....

And....

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My name is AdamThis is my Civic Build.7" Samsung Tab 2Kenwood KDC-X896Clarion EQS746Sundown X-15DC 3.5k @2ohmHatersGonnaHate's 02 Civic UBLELD Bypass for Honda Civic/Accord/FitDon's Jeep Grand Cherokee Rebuild

N8ball2013 - i think you'd stick your dick in a blender if it told you it was 40 wtih two kids your age. lol

srp365 - If posting were picking up bitches, I'd be going home single tonight

looks like tony montana sneezed in your car.

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Keep it up man.... cant wait to see some vids of this thing in action once its wrapped up.

1999 Lincoln Town Car-(build underway)

- (2) SA15s, 4th order, DAT 2500.1, O2 mids n highs, 250a alt, HC 2400, Big 3....

1994 Pontiac T/A for speeding tickets.-

- Currently on jack stands, wanting to be a real race car

"Your local forecast, all the ladies in the metro area should expect to see 8 inches tonight" - The Todd

Decaf, on 01 November 2011 - 02:38 PM, said:

i provide the ammo for destruction, the trigger finger is connected to the volume knob tho

URBAN GORILLA AUDIO
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My $0.02

"Most" musical content should be only stereo so unless you're playing DVDs that contain Dolby 5.1 or something, you should only need two cables, a left and a right.

Time alignment in car audio is really adjust the "sound path" from each separate speaker so that the content is able to hit your ears at the exact same time.

Although you could definitely implement time alignment in home audio (my older Denon AVR-3805 does it) I'm fairly sure the 360.3 only deals with left and right channels.

Any 360/time alignment experts feel free to correct me if I'm wrong here.

The area that I can think of where you would want to run separate cables would be if you want control audio settings (sub out level, etc, etc) with the HU itself.

Although maybe you can do most of that with the 360...?

I'm guessing Fosgate suggests that you run all outputs to the 360 so that no signals are missed because of HU x-over settings.

Lets say that you just run one pair of cables to the 360, but you ran your front outputs and had a high pass x-over turned on which attenuated all bass going to the 360.

Fosgate gets sick of taking a bunch of calls on the same topic so they generally suggest that all cables are run.

So...if you so run just one pair, just make sure is a full range signal.

:good:

This post sent with 100% recycled electrons.
2004 BMW M3
Mechman 280A
2 - XS Power XP3000

1 - XS Power D375

500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F)
iPadMini2

Dash mounted O-scope
Audison bitOne (Remote DRC MP)
Highs Amp - PPI Art A404
Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...)
DC Audio DC9.0K
2- DC Audio XL12m2

LEGAL             - 147.3dB @ 41Hz
OUTLAW         - 150.2dB @ 45Hz

OUTLAW         - 145.7dB @ 30Hz
JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER

2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER

SOTM BUILD:
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026

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My $0.02

"Most" musical content should be only stereo so unless you're playing DVDs that contain Dolby 5.1 or something, you should only need two cables, a left and a right.

Time alignment in car audio is really adjust the "sound path" from each separate speaker so that the content is able to hit your ears at the exact same time.

Although you could definitely implement time alignment in home audio (my older Denon AVR-3805 does it) I'm fairly sure the 360.3 only deals with left and right channels.

Any 360/time alignment experts feel free to correct me if I'm wrong here.

The area that I can think of where you would want to run separate cables would be if you want control audio settings (sub out level, etc, etc) with the HU itself.

Although maybe you can do most of that with the 360...?

I'm guessing Fosgate suggests that you run all outputs to the 360 so that no signals are missed because of HU x-over settings.

Lets say that you just run one pair of cables to the 360, but you ran your front outputs and had a high pass x-over turned on which attenuated all bass going to the 360.

Fosgate gets sick of taking a bunch of calls on the same topic so they generally suggest that all cables are run.

So...if you so run just one pair, just make sure is a full range signal.

:good:

Correct. I do know that my old DSP the .2, would "sum" the channels when only using 2. And, to me, it seemed lacking.

Ill look a bit more into it. If i dont need 3 pair, i will most certainly run the DAMORE cables.

Thanks all. And if anyone else has info, i am all ears.

THANKS AGAIN SCOTT AND WICKS.

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My $0.02

"Most" musical content should be only stereo so unless you're playing DVDs that contain Dolby 5.1 or something, you should only need two cables, a left and a right.

Time alignment in car audio is really adjust the "sound path" from each separate speaker so that the content is able to hit your ears at the exact same time.

Although you could definitely implement time alignment in home audio (my older Denon AVR-3805 does it) I'm fairly sure the 360.3 only deals with left and right channels.

Any 360/time alignment experts feel free to correct me if I'm wrong here.

The area that I can think of where you would want to run separate cables would be if you want control audio settings (sub out level, etc, etc) with the HU itself.

Although maybe you can do most of that with the 360...?

I'm guessing Fosgate suggests that you run all outputs to the 360 so that no signals are missed because of HU x-over settings.

Lets say that you just run one pair of cables to the 360, but you ran your front outputs and had a high pass x-over turned on which attenuated all bass going to the 360.

Fosgate gets sick of taking a bunch of calls on the same topic so they generally suggest that all cables are run.

So...if you so run just one pair, just make sure is a full range signal.

:good:

I really dont know what to do here WICKS.

Ive asked for some help, in other places, and waiting for a responce. I know on my .2, that it was HEAVILY suggested to run all inputs that you could.

I dunno. im opening up my .3 box now. And gonna dive into it further. If im able to use just a pair (fullrange) then cool. But,.. im having some doubts.

We shall see. And here we go. If you see, or hear anything, id love to hear it.

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Dude,

I just went through the manuals on the 360.3.

Here's some highlights:

NOTE: The 3Sixty.3 can be set up to create a 8 channel output with only 2 channels (Left and Right) of input. However, for the best sound stage, it is
strongly recommended to connect into all of the outputs from the vehicles factory system. (AUX not required). If you are not using all 8 inputs
(Front/Front2/Rear/Center/Sub) you can SUM the inputs during configuration under the OEM system. Keep in mind that if
you choose to use SUM, all left channels selected will form one signal and all right channels selected will form one signal. Stereo imaging will
be maintained but your fader may cease to function depending on the channels selected to sum.

Level
The level for each channel of the 3Sixty.3 can be attenuated up to -40dB by either entering a specific value in the text box above the level slider or moving
the level slider with the mouse. This feature can be used to; reduce the output voltage for amplifiers that have a maximum input voltage that is less than 8V,
adjust the balance or fade, or to level set a source. Located below the level slider is a check box for muting output channels. To mute a channel, select the
speaker (channel) from the “Speaker Selection”.
NOTE: After configuring the 3Sixty.3’s input, the output from each channel will be 8VRMS with 0dB of attenuation.

So you should be fine with just two channels of input. The manual states that a "factory" system should have all inputs included.

That's probably because some factory units could do all kinds of processing to the audio signals and you'd never know if you're getting full range or not.

Some factory systems have MULTIPLE speakers all over the car, even center channel speakers. Therefore they probably divide up the frequency response all over the place for each separate speaker. So with an OEM factory system I could see including all inputs.

For an aftermarket HU you have control over what goes where and you can set it to give two RCA outputs a full range signal.

Notice that when the 360 is configured, the RCA outputs have 0 attenuation to 8Vrms.

Watch out for that and make sure you lower the level setting. I don't know of many amps at all that can handle 8V signals.

Hope that helps!

:good:

This post sent with 100% recycled electrons.
2004 BMW M3
Mechman 280A
2 - XS Power XP3000

1 - XS Power D375

500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F)
iPadMini2

Dash mounted O-scope
Audison bitOne (Remote DRC MP)
Highs Amp - PPI Art A404
Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...)
DC Audio DC9.0K
2- DC Audio XL12m2

LEGAL             - 147.3dB @ 41Hz
OUTLAW         - 150.2dB @ 45Hz

OUTLAW         - 145.7dB @ 30Hz
JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER

2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER

SOTM BUILD:
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026

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Thanks Wicks. The support is appreciated. And I did notice that 8v bump. I'll be sure to "dumb" that down for shizzle.

Seems that everyone is in some sort of agreement about just using 2 channels, possibly 4. No more than that though

The 2 front, and then using the 2 subs channels, and still having 8 out, when I'll only need 3(pair).

I wonder if I can use 2 pair of the DAmore coax RCA 16' patch cables!?

Im nervous that they will be to short !?!?!? From OEM HU placement to let's just say the rear of the SDime ?!? Hmmmmm

Or, would using the wrong twisted ones I bought be that big of a issue. ???

We'll see.

Anyway, thanks again all...

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how did you manage to come up with 17 pages since mid march? anyway I like where this is going and I am VERY jealous of all that beautiful equipment. Keep it up, tuned in for sure :popcorn:

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